chisel grind heat treat

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Aug 21, 2001
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I have to heat treat a couple of chisel ground knives, and havn't done so in the past. One is 0-1, and the other is damascus (1084/15n20/nickle). One is hollow ground on the one side, the other one is flat ground on the one side. I've done heat treat on both steel types befor, but my concern with these is warpage due to the chisel grind (bevel only ground on the one side) Anyone with any suggestions or other wisdom, please let me know as I'm doing this for a friend, and really don't want to screw this up! Thanks.
 
Clint: The ground side will probably curl up a little bit. Leave enough extra material so you can re-flatten it and then clean up the grind after you HT it.

RJ Martin
 
I've done a number of chisel grinds, don't go too thin if you haven't already ground them, I stop at 0.04" on the 1080 I'm using. When I HT I normalize three times at a reducing temp each time but don't let it cool particularly before starting the heat treat after the last step. I bring it up to temp, moving it around a bit in the forge a bit and judging by eye that all of it is evenly heated and then out and STRAIGHT down into the oil. I do an up and down motion, stabbing into the oil (staying under) to agitate at first, then change it to a more edge/spine agitation after a few seconds. Of course, this is also tailored to the fact that I use a compressed gas cylinder a couple feet tall with the top cut off as a quench tank. Up and down takes advantage of more of the oil than any other motion would.

I have yet to get a noticeable curl since I started keeping it to around 0.04" and doing a better job of getting a nice even heat. On the other hand, I'm also not doing particularly long blades and at least half had significant spines relative to the bevel, as much as 1/3 of the blade height. I have a feeling a longer blade with less of a spine might show increased curling than what I've been working with.
 
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