chisel-grind question

M

MickMan

Joined
Feb 15, 2000
Messages
81
Why aren't more people making chisel-grind knives (I am not just talking about tantos)?
They're a lot easier to sharpen, and they cut with less drag (in my experience).

Thanks
 
A chisel-grind does not like to cut straight. A chisel-grind is weak on the flat side. If you chop on something hard like bone the edge rolls over to the flat side. A symmetrical grind is structurally stronger.
 
You can sharpen v-ground bevels in the same way as a chisel grind, you don't have to work both sides. You just need to alternate sides with each sharpening so as to keep the edge inline with the center of the spine.

-Cliff
 
I actually don't find them easier to sharpen; when I try I usually round the edge. I also don't think that they cut wood very well, especially when cutting at an angle, like putting a point on a stick.
 
My brother and I have been making chisel ground knives for some time now. I can tell you this:

1)Chisel grinds are easy to sharpen if you have the right tool.

2)True Chisel grinds (ground all the way to an edge with no secondary bevel) are NOT for heavy cutting chores. They can be fragile.

3)True chisel grinds are best suited for cutting flesh. They make for extremely sharp fighters.

4)There are such things as right-hand and left-hand chisel grinds. It depends on which side of the blade you grind the bevels.

5)Most people don't understand what a chisel grind is. A chisel grind is how a wood chisel is ground. When was the last time you saw a wood chisel do heavy-duty work?

I hope I haven't bored you to tears with my opinions.

------------------
Barry
Jones Knives

Do you hear that?
That is the sound of inevitability.
 
Sorry, double post.

------------------
Barry
Jones Knives

Do you hear that?
That is the sound of inevitability.

[This message has been edited by BARRY JONES (edited 03-10-2000).]
 
Under the heading of "duh, I never thought of that" Barry's comment about the light duty associated with wood chisels turned on a little light bulb in my head. Wood chisels for light work on soft materials are ground on one side, cold chisels for metal and masonry are symmetrical. So our term chisel grind is really "wood chisel grind" and really implies a light duty design.
 
I carry a Phill Hartsfield Kozuka neck knife with a right hand chisel grind and 1/8" thick. I carry it everyday and use it for everything, from cutting old dirty carpet to cutting rope. It is the only knife I own (custom or production) that I am not afraid to use for anything. If it begins to loose its razor sharpness it still cuts better than anything else I own. It retains the edge longer, a lot longer.
So I will have to disagree with the "weakness issue".

Just my opinion.

Kevin
 
Like any semi-specialized tool, techniques for use need to be learned. I'm left handed so the BM975 works great for me. Stright line cuts in stuff like cardboard can be made, it takes a little different technique from a std. bevel is all.

I've tried it on all sorts of stuff and have had no real problems, of course I leave car doors and such alone and I don't use it for a prybar, etc.
Dan
 
There are a few fighters out there that believe in cutting arcs through an opponent, like taking divots out as opposed to slicing. Chisel grinds are especially suited for these people, if they remember that the knife will cut in an arc in one direction very well, and the other not very well.

My opinion, is that a knife properly stuck in someone will kill them the first time, and that you needn't try cutting divots out.


Stryver
 
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