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Chisel sharpening jig?
- Thread starter DavidL41
- Start date
- Joined
- Jun 4, 2010
- Messages
- 6,642
From everything I've read there are no "good" inexpensive jigs, the ones from Veritas run about $60.
With patience you can do these freehand, the hardest part is flattening the back side. After that the next challenge is keeping it dead 90° as you grind and not dubbing the outside corners - though picking nits at that point, if its a bit off it will still work fine for almost every application.
With patience you can do these freehand, the hardest part is flattening the back side. After that the next challenge is keeping it dead 90° as you grind and not dubbing the outside corners - though picking nits at that point, if its a bit off it will still work fine for almost every application.
- Joined
- Jun 4, 2010
- Messages
- 6,642
I'm not sure what you mean, is there a pic or sketch to illustrate the condition?
- Joined
- Jun 4, 2010
- Messages
- 6,642
Ugh,
First step is to square off the edge to 90° if that's important (I cannot tell from pic if its on or not - looks close anyway).
Mark up the side that's lagging (left side) and begin grinding from that shoulder transition corner out and across at a diagonal to meet the opposite right side outer corner, assuming you want to match the edge overall to the right hand side.
The right side outer corner/edge will be the last spot on the stone.
It will be a lot more grinding to match the angle to the left side, you'd have to grind all the way back to the existing right hand shoulder transition, but at the more obtuse left hand cutting angle.
The thicker lines are the starting point/most stock removal.
Realistically as long as the lead edge is reasonably square, if the bevel angle is off a few degrees from one corner to the other it won't effect function to any notable degree.
First step is to square off the edge to 90° if that's important (I cannot tell from pic if its on or not - looks close anyway).
Mark up the side that's lagging (left side) and begin grinding from that shoulder transition corner out and across at a diagonal to meet the opposite right side outer corner, assuming you want to match the edge overall to the right hand side.
The right side outer corner/edge will be the last spot on the stone.
It will be a lot more grinding to match the angle to the left side, you'd have to grind all the way back to the existing right hand shoulder transition, but at the more obtuse left hand cutting angle.
The thicker lines are the starting point/most stock removal.
Realistically as long as the lead edge is reasonably square, if the bevel angle is off a few degrees from one corner to the other it won't effect function to any notable degree.
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