Chitlangi help

B

Bruce of 1

Joined
Apr 16, 2004
Messages
199
A hoy everyone.

through the generousity of the Great Uncle Bill i got myself a 21 inch chitlangi, as a a first khukuri.

anyway I have read just about everything on the faq's and other help threads but I am still at a loss.

First off sharpening, the chakma and my little sharpening stone doesn't fit the bill. The will get it sharp but the edge won't keep. I butchered a pair of leather gloves to have the leather for polishing and to make a small strop.
any recomendations for this would be apreciated. My plan is to go buy a diamond file. My local supermarket butchers section does a bit of sharpening for free but I don't wanna rely on outside sources, I bought it, I'll sharpen it.

Polishing the blade, i'm warry of all the abrasives I have in stock right now, the words fatal error come to mind. from the glove i have small finger length strips. But should i use an oxide polish with this?

the handle, i have a supply of murphy's oil soap, i delute it with water and apply with a q-tip (wood handle) but this seems to make the handle seem dry.

As a guy with a good supply of leather jackets would the protector spray for these be of any use on the sheath, this idea comes to me as i write this.

but now that I have my thoughts organized here I will go back for faq searching, if anyone would like to contribute I would really apreciate it. Please name specific products though, it just helps.
 
get Dan Koster's shapening CD,
Dan doesn't charge anything but cost and the techniques for
making the convex edge do work. It uses cheap and easy to get materials like
wet sandpaper, foam and a wood block . Use the green chrome buffing compound as recomended for your strop( works great) .

The convex edge is superior for a khuk , as many more qualified people here
will testify.

Do a search on the forum, it's packed with discussion on the subject, if you got time to read it all.

There is also some info in the Khukri fact section of the Hi site.

all good stuff. I could shave with my khuk now( if I didn't mind cutting a few chunks off here or there).......

Good luck
 
Heh, thnx, green chrome compound is on my shopping list now.

Daniel if you have a cd and are willing to ship one out (and even reading this) I would love to have a copy.
 
21 inch chitlangi, as a first khukuri -- NICE CHOICE! As for your local supermarket butcher? That's what they'll do to your khuk! :rolleyes:

I do the initial edge work with a 1" belt sander (400 grit) and finish with strops I made myself. Sharpening: Dan's da man!

I'll mention some of my favorite care products (some not mentioned in other posts):


  • Wood: Tru-Coat Gunstock Finish, by Wahkon Bay Outfitting. They're out of business, but the Log Cabin Shop, Lodi, Ohio still had a few bottles when I last checked ($3.00 / 6 oz, logcabin@logcabinshop.com ). This dries slower than Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil. I've finished Hawken rifle stocks as well as knives with it. It leaves a deep, luxurious, hand-rubbed finish. I put on a thin coat a day, for 5 days, followed by a coat of Tru-Oil. And finish with Birchwood Casey Gun Stock Wax.
  • Horn: Corona Antiseptic Ointment. Available at a tack shop. Has 50% lanolin, plus beeswax, etc. About $3.39 / 2 oz. Pure lanolin works too.
  • Leather: Blackrock Leather 'N' Rich, available at a tack shop. A friend uses it to restore antique cavalry saddles and tack. I also like Biwell. German leather treatment with beeswax. You may find it at a camping store if you're lucky. Obenauf's Heavy Duty Leather Preservative is also good (good shoe store). And I would never be without Ballistol. Both spray and liquid. Spray works on the nooks and crannies of the scabbard and inside the scabbard. Liquid for the outside of the scabbard. I also use it on wood and horn handles as well as blades. Indispensable for blackpowder shooters.
  • Metal: First step, Marine Tuf-Cloth, dry lube cloth. Used by Navy SEALS. I use Break Free CLP, for cleaning blades, light rust, etc. Then follow with Flitz metal polish. Polishes and protects the blade, bolster and pommel.
And the final loving ingredient: Elbow Grease! :D Good luck!
 
Maybe a little clarification is needed, but the way Im reading the first post, is that you can sharpen you khuk, but it isnt retaining the edge. If it is constantly getting dull, but you can sharpen it I can think of a couple of things. One, you are not putting enough meat on the edge, probably mistaking the bur for the final edge. Or two the blade isnt hardened properly, and is too soft. If it is two, then I would contact Uncle Bill, as this would be a warranty problem. If it is one, I would advise practice practice practice. Though, even a non-convex edge should last relatively long enough if done properly. Convex will last longer than other edges, but a flat grind or even a hollow grind should dull after a few uses. So I dunno, maybe I just mis read the post. But, iffen the blade is hardened properly, my own feeling is that you most likely are mistaking the burr for the edge, as it will feel sharp but will dull after a use or two.
 
Frederico , critism apreciated. i think you have a point. i went at it again with the wetstone at a different angle and more muscle, i have the beginings of a nice edge forming.
 
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