Choosing a (Bow) Draw Weight?

XMP

XMP

Joined
Feb 9, 2007
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One of the skills I've been thinking about trying to add is archery. I haven't shot a bow seriously in 30 years, so it would be starting from scratch. I wouldn't go the full modern compound route, but would want to be a little more traditional -- recurve or longbow. Does anyone have a recommendation on picking a draw-weight? Is it simply trial and error, or is there a shortcut? What if my options are limited, unless I want to order a bow online?

If physical size enters into the equation, I'm 6' 1" 220. I've lifted weights seriously for years, so its mostly good weight. Any recommendations would be helpful.
 
What needs to happen is you go to a reliable archery shop. They can help you get measured and get your draw weight and proper bow size. Many of them will let you try a few too so you can get a feel.
 
nate1714 said:
What needs to happen is you go to a reliable archery shop. They can help you get measured and get your draw weight and proper bow size. Many of them will let you try a few too so you can get a feel.
Click to expand...

& recurve/longbow draws will vary a bit from the draws of most compounds too IIRC.
 
nate1714 said:
What needs to happen is you go to a reliable archery shop. They can help you get measured and get your draw weight and proper bow size. Many of them will let you try a few too so you can get a feel.
Click to expand...

Good Advice. Drawing a bow requires muscles that you probably havent worked much before even if you lift weights. Dont buy to heavy of a pull ,40-45 lb pull is enough to hunt with. You can never become proficient if your in a struggle to hold it back. And as with any weapon,,,ya gotta hit what your aiming at.
 
XMP, i'm an active member of a traditional archery club (recurves, longbows, wood arrows & no sights)
I think a 40 pound longbow is good to start for someone your size. When you miss it wont go as far, bow is more forgiving and easier to get used to although it needs to be tuned and kept tuned ie. string not allowed to untwist when unstrung if twists are necessary.
I use two bows, a 45 lb for the 3D range and a 65lb for moving targets.
 
XMP - you'll also need to find out your draw length (your arrow length from string to front of bow at full draw) for the bow specifications. Overdrawing a bow is not a good idea.
 
Moved to G&G.
 
Start light. 40 - 45 pounds is good (and lethal) no matter how big you are. Probably the most common mistake that most beginning archers make is to start with too heavy a bow. Doing so inevitably leads to bad habits that are all but impossible to shake later and honestly, there's not a single legit big game animal in North America that you can't dispatch with a 45# recurve or longbow - assuming good (2-3 blade cut on contact - none of this switchblade crap) broadheads coupled with appropriately heavy arrows.

Also - don't think of recurves / logbows as a stop gap before you get to the modern compound bows. The traditional bows are just as lethal, far lighter, and almost infinitely more reliable than compounds. With a traditional bow, you don't have to worry about dozens of moving parts, sight pins, peep sights, whisker biscuits, stabilizers, cams, cables, blah blah blah - all of which can become clogged, bent, misaligned and on and on.

A good trad bow can get you on target quickly and frankly - they are a blast to use. I can hear the argument about how much more accurate compounds are and yes - if you prefer shooting bullseyes at 50 yards in your back yard, compounds will get you there more easily. If you want to put meat on the table though, take a recurve or longbow and *hunt*.
 
Thanks for all the advice I appreciate.

I'm not thinking of a traditional bow as a stopgar. I really don't have an interest in modern compound bows. I'll stick with a recurve/longbow longterm. However, I would like to buy enough bow the first time so that I don't have to upgrade it anytime soon.
 
XMP said:
Thanks for all the advice I appreciate.

I'm not thinking of a traditional bow as a stopgar. I really don't have an interest in modern compound bows. I'll stick with a recurve/longbow longterm. However, I would like to buy enough bow the first time so that I don't have to upgrade it anytime soon.
Click to expand...

There's a great website for all things about traditional archery - search for tradgang. Any questions you have - you can get them answered there.
 
nate1714 said:
What needs to happen is you go to a reliable archery shop. They can help you get measured and get your draw weight and proper bow size. Many of them will let you try a few too so you can get a feel.
Click to expand...

I second this....its the only real way to get the right equipment the first time
 
your draw should be flawless. no twitching and no stressing holding it back for over 3 mins as well.. for recurves and longs you really dont want to venture over 55-60lbs. there is no let off like compounds
 
I just went through the same process as you last year. Like everyone said, make sure you find out your draw length from a reputable shop (there's ways to do it yourself, if there's not a shop available). Especially with your height, there's a good chance that your draw length will exceed the 28" standard that most bow's draw weights are calculated at. At longer lengths, the draw weight can increase quite quickly. A longer target bow, say with a 69" AMO, will have less stacking (increase in weight vs length of draw), so look for those. If you're not going to hunt, look for something even lighter than 40#. And there's good deals to be had on e-bay for beautiful recurves from the 60's and 70's. I found an awesome 1967 Wing Presentation, 69" AMO, 35# draw weight for around $200, and I love it. Other target bows to look at are Bear Tamerlanes and Telmujins, Hoyt Pro Medalists, Black Widows, Wing Presentations and White Wings, etc. The lighter the weight of the draw, the quicker your shot skills will improve. tradtalk is a good forum for traditional archery stuff.
 
I built my first longbow to draw 50# at 28 inches. It was too heavy. I hadn't drawn a bow in many years, and the reason I'd quit back then was a shoulder injury.
So, while building the next one, (an osage orange number that turned out very well) I not only lowered my target weight but started working on my shoulder.
They sell an elastic-band exerciser called "Bowfit" which simulates the drawing motion.
(rather like a slingshot, actually)
Rather than drop 30 bucks on the think I made my own with commercial bungee-cord material.
Worked well... By the time I got the bow finished I could draw and hold it comfortably.
 
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