Choosing a felling axe for backpacking

AaronGP

AaronGP

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Jul 19, 2014
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I do trail building and maintenance, often involving several miles of hiking to a work site, to which I need to carry multiple tools. I'm looking for a small to medium felling axe that I can strap to my pack and carry with me. My ideal is to find something with a 2.5lb head and a 26" to 28" handle. Here are the models I'm currently considering:

Does anyone have any thoughts on these options? Other items to suggest?
 
Those all look like decent choices. Much of it is just going to come down to preference or even which one you like the look of.
I dont have one, but from what I hear the council tools boys axe is pretty good, and might fit the bill as far as size goes :)

do you think you will only be felling / limbing with it? or is it going to be a bit of an all rounder / camp axe?

another couple of choices depending on what exactly you want from it may be the wetterlings hudson bay or council tool hudson bay with the long handle. IMO they would be good all round / camp axes but they are not pure "felling axes"
A felling axe, in theory, will have a thinner bit so may cut a little better, but may not split quite as well as a more general purpose axe.

let us know what you end up with
 
I recommend you get a vintage boys/pulp ax. Convex cheeks. Good geometry for a working ax. I also would be looking at the 28 inch handle length. At least. Two inches will not save you any noticable weight, nor will it really be "more packable". But when working you will appreciate it.
 
nzedge said:
wetterlings hudson bay
Click to expand...

In my opinion the Wetterlings Hudson Bay head is amazing. Convex cheeks heel to toe/high centerline. Good weight. Good working bit. The short handle makes it a poor candidate for a work ax. The short handle is a real disappointment once you handle one. I picked one up based on good reviews. Figured it to be a good little kindling/small tasks ax. Really head wise it is in the boys/pulp ax category. And not just because of its weight. The handle just crippled what you can feel it would be capable of. Put it on a 28" handle and you have a winner. But as it comes, no.


An example of "convex cheeks/high centerline"
Also this happens to be the Wetterlings Hudson Bay.
 
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As far as I know, Wetterlings was the only major Euro manufacturer putting convex cheeks on their axes (more did in the past as far as I can tell). Now that they are going into history...it would be nice for Gransfors to keep some of their models, this being yet another reason for that.
 
This is something I've struggled with for several years. Of what's readily available I've found a vintage boy's axe to be the best compromise. They have good bit and cheek geometry. They're large enough to do some real work but still small and light enough to pack.

But it's a compromise. On back country trail projects I often wish for a little more axe. We've recently discussed this in another thread. See link below. What I'd like is a 2-3/4 pound axe with a 32”-34” haft. It should have a full size eye so that you can buy hafts to fit it. Being longer than a typical 28” boys axe this axe would give you more power plus the ability to hold a pocket underbucking tool.

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1480730-Full-size-single-bit-design
 
I'd look at the Council Tool boy's axe (24" and 28" handles), the Gransfors Scandanavian forest axe, or a vintage refurb (any name brand will do well). I'd be careful about the Hudson Bay patterns...there's not as much eye contact so they can work loose unless hung very well. It'd be one less thing to worry about since you're having to hike in. In either case I would carry a few extra wedges just in case.
 
nzedge said:
do you think you will only be felling / limbing with it? or is it going to be a bit of an all rounder / camp axe?

another couple of choices depending on what exactly you want from it may be the wetterlings hudson bay or council tool hudson bay with the long handle. IMO they would be good all round / camp axes but they are not pure "felling axes"
A felling axe, in theory, will have a thinner bit so may cut a little better, but may not split quite as well as a more general purpose axe.
Click to expand...

This really will be just for felling and limbing—possibly bucking—not splitting.
 
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SC T100 said:
I'd look at the Council Tool boy's axe (24" and 28" handles)I'd be careful about the Hudson Bay patterns..
Click to expand...


The Wetterlings Hudson Bay can be seen as a solution to the hudson eye problem, and weighs in at 2 1\2 lbs
I would point out the Council tool boys ax only weighs 2 1\4 lbs and from what I have seen have pretty poor geometry (as do granfors) in comparison to the Wetterlings or a vintage.
 
The vintage stuff is at an all time high when it comes to pricing and its a hobby in it self to find the good axes and deals.

Not everyone has the time to do that.

So, Buy New.

I recommend the Council Tool "boys axe" Forest Service edition exclusive from Omaha Knife and tool.

its a 2.25 dayton head with a fiberglass wedge which is better then the aluminum since it can be drilled out better when you need to fix the handle or replace it.

It has the 26" Velvicut Handle which is thinner then the stock handle, less shock to hands and just overall swings better.

The steel is 4140 at 53-54hrc which is on the softer side but is good for the field work you want since it can be fully service, repaired and reprofiled quicky in the field with a singe cut, 8"bastard file and a india stone.

Also, Omaha offers to sharpen it to a mirror finish, half banana grind if you buy a sheath

I really enjoy mine.
 
DeadboxHero said:
The vintage stuff is at an all time high when it comes to pricing and its a hobby in it self to find the good axes and deals.

Not everyone has the time to do that.

So, Buy New.

I recommend the Council Tool "boys axe" Forest Service edition exclusive from Omaha Knife and tool.

its a 2.25 dayton head with a fiberglass wedge which is better then the aluminum since it can be drilled out better when you need to fix the handle or replace it.

It has the 26" Velvicut Handle which is thinner then the stock handle, less shock to hands and just overall swings better.

The steel is 4140 at 53-54hrc which is on the softer side but is good for the field work you want since it can be fully service, repaired and reprofiled quicky in the field with a singe cut, 8"bastard file and a india stone.

Also, Omaha offers to sharpen it to a mirror finish, half banana grind if you buy a sheath

I really enjoy mine.
Click to expand...

I would love to see you properly limb a couple of good size trees with an ax that has a 26" handle. I started a maple with the Wetterlings 24" about 2 min in I walked back to the truck and grabbed the Fulton on a 36". I don't even care for 28" but I can deal.
 
Woodcraft said:
The Wetterlings Hudson Bay can be seen as a solution to the hudson eye problem.
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Whats it's solution? I've never handled one before.
I might order one soon before they are all gone; I had no idea it had the bit profile you just showed us.
 
DeadFall27 said:
Whats it's solution? I've never handled one before.
I might order one soon before they are all gone; I had no idea it had the bit profile you just showed us.
Click to expand...

A little more meat the eye area. I can take measurements if you want to compare.
 
3/4 Hudson Bay single bit works great for trail clearing chores (Snow & Nealley is my choice). Or a chainsaw if trail is really clogged and wood too big.
 
Woodcraft said:
A little more meat the eye area. I can take measurements if you want to compare.
Click to expand...

If you have them on hand, that'd be great. If not, don't worry about it.
That's one of the big reasons I always passed up, and never warmed up to, Hudson Bay styled axes...so that's a big plus in my book.
 
DeadboxHero said:
The vintage stuff is at an all time high when it comes to pricing and its a hobby in it self to find the good axes and deals.

Not everyone has the time to do that.

So, Buy New.
Click to expand...

And yet good ready to work vintage options are available for 1/3 the price of some of the models he is considering. I would say that the Council boys axe is a good choose with some bit work.
 
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DeadFall27 said:
If you have them on hand, that'd be great. If not, don't worry about it.
That's one of the big reasons I always passed up, and never warmed up to, Hudson Bay styled axes...so that's a big plus in my book.
Click to expand...
I think he did a couple of threads on it. They are the reason I decided to pull the trigger on one. Again, impressed with the head, handle is very nice. Just to short for me. I believe it will really shine on a 28"very. Im going to re hang it on a 28".
Pictures back to back right on the first page.
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1356284-Wetterlings-Hudson-Bay-Axe-Review
 
jblyttle said:
And yet good ready to work vintage options are available for 1/3 the price of some of the models he is considering. I would say that the Council boys axe is a good choose with some bit work.
Click to expand...

Ah but time is money, If someone makes 12 an hour and spends 10 hours refurbishing a vintage axe head then they have already spent more. Not to mention needing to buy a handle and materials to finish it.

Of course a lot of us here enjoy doing that but, hey maybe its better to work overtime or pickup an extra shift at work to buy something ready to go.

also there are some ripoffs with vintage axes with trick photos and also bidding wars which are lame.
 
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