Choosing a mill for folders and other stuff

[Larsje100]

Hello everyone,

I'm currently in the process of thinking about getting my first manual mill.
I'm thinking about getting this one (Optimum bf 20): http://www.techsoft.co.uk/WorkshopEquipment/MetalMills/OptimumBF20
Or (HBM BF 25): https://www.hbm-machines.com/produc...etaalfreesmachinesssub/hbm-bf-25-freesmachine

Both are made in China but I've heard the Optimum is assembled in Germany (Not sure on that though).

It will mainly be used for folding knife stuff, basic drilling of holes and flattening/milling handle material (Wood, g10, cf stuff like that).
Another question is if it's possible to mill the steel flat (not heat treated of course). Anyone knows if that's possible, and if yes which cutter/mill would I use for that?

I'm aware that I need to spend some more cash on end mills, clamps and stuff like that but any help/advice on what to get would be appreciated!
Which mill would you recommened? Would the Optimum BF20 be good or is there any other brand out there that may be worth checking out? (I'm located in Europe so I can't order from US)

Thanks alot

Lars

 

[FunkCoaster]

In my research I was told to avoid tilting head columns. They are rarely if ever used, and they reduce the strength and accuracy of the mill, and take more time to adjust to get back to zero.

To flatten, you can get reasonably close to flat with a fly cutter, but they need to be mighty sharp, and the more stable your setup the better. Haven't done this myself yet.

Not a full answer to your question, but hope it helps.

 

[Larsje100]

In my research I was told to avoid tilting head columns. They are rarely if ever used, and they reduce the strength and accuracy of the mill, and take more time to adjust to get back to zero.

To flatten, you can get reasonably close to flat with a fly cutter, but they need to be mighty sharp, and the more stable your setup the better. Haven't done this myself yet.

Not a full answer to your question, but hope it helps.

Thanks for the info! The thing is, there are alot of Chinese rebrands here in Europe and they all have the tilting option. I don't think I will use it like you said but I dont really have any other options as far as I know.
Thanks again
Would like a 4 flute endmill (or whatever they're called) do well with flattening the steel?
You might have to make more passes depending on the size but I don't think that's a problem for me.

 

[FunkCoaster]

I should think that an endmill would work. I'm no machinist, but the concerns would be the cost (endmill costing potentially more), ease of replacement, and efficiency of the operation.

But as long as you're okay taking the time to crank that wheel, it should work.

 

[A C Richards]

Rigidity is everything in a mill. Do yourself a favor, get the largest, heaviest mill you can 1. Afford and 2. Fit in your shop. Small mills can hold tight tolerances but you need to figure out their quirks. A Bridgeport style mill will hold tight tolerances and hold them for a long time. A full size knee mill is the way to go.

If you cannot afford or fit one in your shop then read up on the small mills and find the one that advertises lowest tolerance repeat-ability.

 

[Justin.Mercier]

Dont overlook antiques either, I paid 300$ for my mill, WITH a boat load of tooling, and while it's not 'fast' it does a fine job, and i can do vertical or horizontal milling.

My milling machine turns 110 years old this year.

[video=youtube;0iAxk05wkZE]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0iAxk05wkZE[/video]