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- Feb 8, 2004
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Nodh made a good recommendation and I figured I'd just get a small primer started. Of course, there are much more talented users and more skilled member on this board than I, but I figure those more experienced members would add their quite valuable two-cents to this post. As we say in the Army; the BLUF (Bottom Line Up Front), is that its the user that defines the "survival" knife, not the other way around.
What to look for in a Survival Knife:
First, lets define survival; according to Wikipedia, Survival knives are intended for survival purposes when lost in a wilderness environment. Military units issue some type of survival knife to pilots in the event they may be shot down. Hunters, hikers, and outdoor sport enthusiasts use survival knives. Some survival knives are heavy-bladed and thick; others are lightweight or fold in order to save weight and bulk as part of a larger survival kit. Their functions often include serving as a hunting knife.
Personally, I dont care for the word survival. As noted in the definition, some might see the survival knife as the knife that is only used or needed for survival situations. Most outdoor knife enthusiasts would argue that you must practice and use your knife to in order to be well versed in its design and use so that you are trained to use it when you need it. So, although survival means many things, I would like to equate it to just a general outdoors knife; however, for sake of this post, Ill continue to refer to the knives as survival knives.
There a so many different view and opinions about this type of knife that we must take into consideration the persons skill, environmental conditions such as terrain and weather, personal tastes and even legal constraints. Additionally, many view the survival knife as the one you have one you, which is true, but several have backpacks, possibles bags or other gear that we grab when we head to the outdoors whether to practice bushcraft and wilderness skills, simple hiking or camping and maybe even for hunting. In my mind, a knife that is typically labeled for survival is one that can do many tasks well, but is not geared towards anything specific, such as a fillet knife or maybe a hunting knife with gut hook. There will always be compromises and whatever knife you choose as your outdoors or survival knife, you must know the limitations and practice to skill to use it to its maximum potential.
The philosophies on what makes a knife a survival knife are so varied that it would boggle the mind. There are many experts that believe one only needs a locking folder or Swiss Army knife and there are other experts that would reach for a 10 blade; it really comes down to personal taste and skill. Many can do large-knife tasks with just a folder and those with large 7-10 blades can do amazing and delicate work with them. Ive seen locals in Ecuador and Peru do just about everything with an 18 machete from clearing fields to food preparation in the kitchen.
Few of us here ever just carry one knife when we head outdoors, however there are restrictions for many people where only a folder is legally feasible. For those individuals, a SAK, multi-tool or locking folder is about it. For that reason, we must be sensitive (I hate that word) to some peoples choices of survival knifes it may very well just be their Every Day Carry (EDC) knife.
So, before one decides on his/her survival knife, you really need to determine your outdoors activities, terrain, climate, season and weather. We all agree that any type of knife is an essential part of our outdoors equipment, whether its a day hike or extended trip to the back forty. Before I start throwing up pictures of knives, you really do need to decide on what tasks you expect your survival knife to accomplish. Heres a list of what may be expected:
Cut (duh); however some knives can cut longer without needing to be sharpened
Drill; as in drilling a socket in a fireboard for a spindle
Scrape; much like a draw knife
Whittle; again, something that can make fuzz sticks
Chop
Baton; able to be pounded horizontally and/or vertically through a piece of wood
Skin and gut small game
Dig; not practical, but many argue that its a possible task a good knife should handle
Notch
Those are just a few off the top of my head, but many here understand that a knife is used first and foremost it cut and that knife should be able to handle those tasks with ease. Whatever knife you have or decide to use, there will inevitably be advantages and disadvantages with that particular design; understanding those will allow you to compensate or adjust your techniques in order to mitigate those disadvantages. In other words, your skill will overcome the shortcomings of any knife you have on you in a survival situation; its not the knife, its the user.
Even though the majority would argue that a true survival knife must be a fixed blade, I would argue that there are several activities and locations that would prevent some from carrying a fixed blade legal limitation are of course a reality and some would just opt to go with a lighter package, hence the small SAK. So to avoid the argument, lets just agree to disagree for the moment and talk about folders and multi-tools.
Lets look at the simple Swiss Army Knife (SAK) or multi-tool:
I my opinion, you need a locking blade for any folder. Its prudent and safe insurance to making a bad situation even worse. Of course with any folding tool, the disadvantage is that the blade folds and is thereby inherently weaker than a fixed blade. Typically most SAKs and multi-tools dont have the higher-grade stainless steel and will most likely dull faster with a lot of use. If you have a folding saw blade, that helps mitigate the need for a chopper for small branches and saplings. For advantages, these are much more compact packages, dont weight too much and offer more versatility with the additional tools. Although I would much prefer a fixed blade, I wouldnt feel under-knifed with my SAK Outrider, Leatherman or Swiss Spirit multi-tool. I really prefer a wood saw and the file and scissors are just plain handy. Another tool I like is the chisel found on the Swiss Tools:
Locking pocket folder (aka tactical folder): Just about anybody that considers themselves a knife nut carries a pocket folder. There are too many designs and variations to cover, but Ill hit the basics. First, the most important part is the locking mechanism; its not a fixed blade, but you need a lock that will stand up to moderate use. Im not advocating to toss your non-locking stockman knives out, quite the contrary, but I would mostly certainly pair with a larger knife or axe (ala Nessmuk). Heres just a snapshot and there are many variations:
Frame lock
Lockback
Liner lock / Compression lock
Locking Ring (ala Opinal)
Axis lock and different variations
Button lock (found in most automatic knives)
My top favorite three are the Lockback, Frame lock and Axis locks. Ive just found these to hold up to more severe torque, battoning, light chopping, etc. Whatever you decide on, make sure you give it a good workout; dont destroy it, but make sure it can do the simple tasks you expect it to. A folder is not a fixed blade and you must adjust your techniques accordingly. Size can also be a factor. There are several mega folders that rival smaller fixed blades, but again, they are a folder and inherently more susceptible to failure.
A quality folder doesnt have to cost as much as a Sebenza; even Gerbers Gator in 154CM is a an excellent lock-back under $40.00. Many of Benchmades axis lock folders range from $50+ to under $200.00 and are all quite nice.
Moving onto fixed blades: This category can range from 3 inches to over 10 inches in blade length. Most would probably opt for something thats mid-sized from 4-6 inches in blade length, but I would like to cover them all. There are a ton of different aspects that can be discussed, heres just a few:
Blade length
Blade steel (high carbon, stainless, differing alloys such as titanium, Talonite, etc.)
Blade width (narrow or wide)
Blade thickness (5/16 down to 3/23)
Blade grinds (hollow, flat, convex, Scandi, etc); zero, secondary, thin or thick bevels
Blade design (tanto, recurve, clip point, drop point, spear point, etc)
Handle type (full tang, stick tang, hidden tang, hollow handle, straight, contoured, etc)
Handle material (Micarta, G10, wood, bone, or leather dont forget color!)
Handle design (straight, contoured, angled)
Handle to Blade transition (guard or no guard; choil or no choil)
Sheath material (leather or Kydex are the most prevalent)
Sheath design (Belt, slip sheath, baldric carry or even just for the pack)
Heres a picture (pretty poor, but you get the idea) of a couple different blade thicknesses:
From Left to Right:
Fehrman Last Chance: ¼
Brian Johnson Survival: 3/16
TOPS Pasayten: 1/8
Kosters Nessmuk: 3/32
There is no best design as each blade is only as capable as its user. Some dont like the American tanto blades, but there are some very talented people that can work wonders with them. Some shy away from the massively thick blades and opt for a thinner, wider profile. Some dismiss hollow grinds in favor or convex or Scandi-grinds; others would never consider a stainless steel, only a high carbon steel such as 1095, O1 or A2. Fully exposed tangs make many enthusiasts more comfortable than using a stick tang knife.
Choil or no choil; this will always bring up varied opinions, most believing a choil takes more blade away and those that favor a choil says it gives them more ability to choke up for different cutting tasks. Personally, I think a choil on a knife with less than a 5 blade is a little bit of a waist; for large blades, it can help to do smaller knife-tasks. Even handle material can make the difference in selection. As to hollow-handle knives, I would in general, avoid them. Unless youre paying top dollar for a customs, the majority of them are junk and will break at the first sign of hard use. About the only affordable and available ones I wound endorse would be Chris Reeves series a single piece of A2 steel
Large Designs: Ill say for me, this is usually anything with a blade over 6 as I most likely would have to have a baldric for carry or have it in my pack. However, if Im going to go large, the 9-10 inch blades offer a lot more chopping power than most with 6-7 inch blades.
ROCK6 .to be continued
What to look for in a Survival Knife:
First, lets define survival; according to Wikipedia, Survival knives are intended for survival purposes when lost in a wilderness environment. Military units issue some type of survival knife to pilots in the event they may be shot down. Hunters, hikers, and outdoor sport enthusiasts use survival knives. Some survival knives are heavy-bladed and thick; others are lightweight or fold in order to save weight and bulk as part of a larger survival kit. Their functions often include serving as a hunting knife.
Personally, I dont care for the word survival. As noted in the definition, some might see the survival knife as the knife that is only used or needed for survival situations. Most outdoor knife enthusiasts would argue that you must practice and use your knife to in order to be well versed in its design and use so that you are trained to use it when you need it. So, although survival means many things, I would like to equate it to just a general outdoors knife; however, for sake of this post, Ill continue to refer to the knives as survival knives.
There a so many different view and opinions about this type of knife that we must take into consideration the persons skill, environmental conditions such as terrain and weather, personal tastes and even legal constraints. Additionally, many view the survival knife as the one you have one you, which is true, but several have backpacks, possibles bags or other gear that we grab when we head to the outdoors whether to practice bushcraft and wilderness skills, simple hiking or camping and maybe even for hunting. In my mind, a knife that is typically labeled for survival is one that can do many tasks well, but is not geared towards anything specific, such as a fillet knife or maybe a hunting knife with gut hook. There will always be compromises and whatever knife you choose as your outdoors or survival knife, you must know the limitations and practice to skill to use it to its maximum potential.
The philosophies on what makes a knife a survival knife are so varied that it would boggle the mind. There are many experts that believe one only needs a locking folder or Swiss Army knife and there are other experts that would reach for a 10 blade; it really comes down to personal taste and skill. Many can do large-knife tasks with just a folder and those with large 7-10 blades can do amazing and delicate work with them. Ive seen locals in Ecuador and Peru do just about everything with an 18 machete from clearing fields to food preparation in the kitchen.
Few of us here ever just carry one knife when we head outdoors, however there are restrictions for many people where only a folder is legally feasible. For those individuals, a SAK, multi-tool or locking folder is about it. For that reason, we must be sensitive (I hate that word) to some peoples choices of survival knifes it may very well just be their Every Day Carry (EDC) knife.
So, before one decides on his/her survival knife, you really need to determine your outdoors activities, terrain, climate, season and weather. We all agree that any type of knife is an essential part of our outdoors equipment, whether its a day hike or extended trip to the back forty. Before I start throwing up pictures of knives, you really do need to decide on what tasks you expect your survival knife to accomplish. Heres a list of what may be expected:
Cut (duh); however some knives can cut longer without needing to be sharpened
Drill; as in drilling a socket in a fireboard for a spindle
Scrape; much like a draw knife
Whittle; again, something that can make fuzz sticks
Chop
Baton; able to be pounded horizontally and/or vertically through a piece of wood
Skin and gut small game
Dig; not practical, but many argue that its a possible task a good knife should handle
Notch
Those are just a few off the top of my head, but many here understand that a knife is used first and foremost it cut and that knife should be able to handle those tasks with ease. Whatever knife you have or decide to use, there will inevitably be advantages and disadvantages with that particular design; understanding those will allow you to compensate or adjust your techniques in order to mitigate those disadvantages. In other words, your skill will overcome the shortcomings of any knife you have on you in a survival situation; its not the knife, its the user.
Even though the majority would argue that a true survival knife must be a fixed blade, I would argue that there are several activities and locations that would prevent some from carrying a fixed blade legal limitation are of course a reality and some would just opt to go with a lighter package, hence the small SAK. So to avoid the argument, lets just agree to disagree for the moment and talk about folders and multi-tools.
Lets look at the simple Swiss Army Knife (SAK) or multi-tool:
I my opinion, you need a locking blade for any folder. Its prudent and safe insurance to making a bad situation even worse. Of course with any folding tool, the disadvantage is that the blade folds and is thereby inherently weaker than a fixed blade. Typically most SAKs and multi-tools dont have the higher-grade stainless steel and will most likely dull faster with a lot of use. If you have a folding saw blade, that helps mitigate the need for a chopper for small branches and saplings. For advantages, these are much more compact packages, dont weight too much and offer more versatility with the additional tools. Although I would much prefer a fixed blade, I wouldnt feel under-knifed with my SAK Outrider, Leatherman or Swiss Spirit multi-tool. I really prefer a wood saw and the file and scissors are just plain handy. Another tool I like is the chisel found on the Swiss Tools:
Locking pocket folder (aka tactical folder): Just about anybody that considers themselves a knife nut carries a pocket folder. There are too many designs and variations to cover, but Ill hit the basics. First, the most important part is the locking mechanism; its not a fixed blade, but you need a lock that will stand up to moderate use. Im not advocating to toss your non-locking stockman knives out, quite the contrary, but I would mostly certainly pair with a larger knife or axe (ala Nessmuk). Heres just a snapshot and there are many variations:
Frame lock
Lockback
Liner lock / Compression lock
Locking Ring (ala Opinal)
Axis lock and different variations
Button lock (found in most automatic knives)
My top favorite three are the Lockback, Frame lock and Axis locks. Ive just found these to hold up to more severe torque, battoning, light chopping, etc. Whatever you decide on, make sure you give it a good workout; dont destroy it, but make sure it can do the simple tasks you expect it to. A folder is not a fixed blade and you must adjust your techniques accordingly. Size can also be a factor. There are several mega folders that rival smaller fixed blades, but again, they are a folder and inherently more susceptible to failure.
A quality folder doesnt have to cost as much as a Sebenza; even Gerbers Gator in 154CM is a an excellent lock-back under $40.00. Many of Benchmades axis lock folders range from $50+ to under $200.00 and are all quite nice.
Moving onto fixed blades: This category can range from 3 inches to over 10 inches in blade length. Most would probably opt for something thats mid-sized from 4-6 inches in blade length, but I would like to cover them all. There are a ton of different aspects that can be discussed, heres just a few:
Blade length
Blade steel (high carbon, stainless, differing alloys such as titanium, Talonite, etc.)
Blade width (narrow or wide)
Blade thickness (5/16 down to 3/23)
Blade grinds (hollow, flat, convex, Scandi, etc); zero, secondary, thin or thick bevels
Blade design (tanto, recurve, clip point, drop point, spear point, etc)
Handle type (full tang, stick tang, hidden tang, hollow handle, straight, contoured, etc)
Handle material (Micarta, G10, wood, bone, or leather dont forget color!)
Handle design (straight, contoured, angled)
Handle to Blade transition (guard or no guard; choil or no choil)
Sheath material (leather or Kydex are the most prevalent)
Sheath design (Belt, slip sheath, baldric carry or even just for the pack)
Heres a picture (pretty poor, but you get the idea) of a couple different blade thicknesses:
From Left to Right:
Fehrman Last Chance: ¼
Brian Johnson Survival: 3/16
TOPS Pasayten: 1/8
Kosters Nessmuk: 3/32
There is no best design as each blade is only as capable as its user. Some dont like the American tanto blades, but there are some very talented people that can work wonders with them. Some shy away from the massively thick blades and opt for a thinner, wider profile. Some dismiss hollow grinds in favor or convex or Scandi-grinds; others would never consider a stainless steel, only a high carbon steel such as 1095, O1 or A2. Fully exposed tangs make many enthusiasts more comfortable than using a stick tang knife.
Choil or no choil; this will always bring up varied opinions, most believing a choil takes more blade away and those that favor a choil says it gives them more ability to choke up for different cutting tasks. Personally, I think a choil on a knife with less than a 5 blade is a little bit of a waist; for large blades, it can help to do smaller knife-tasks. Even handle material can make the difference in selection. As to hollow-handle knives, I would in general, avoid them. Unless youre paying top dollar for a customs, the majority of them are junk and will break at the first sign of hard use. About the only affordable and available ones I wound endorse would be Chris Reeves series a single piece of A2 steel
Large Designs: Ill say for me, this is usually anything with a blade over 6 as I most likely would have to have a baldric for carry or have it in my pack. However, if Im going to go large, the 9-10 inch blades offer a lot more chopping power than most with 6-7 inch blades.
ROCK6 .to be continued
