Choosing sharpening angles?

Joined
May 8, 2004
Messages
61
Hoping for some advice on choosing sharpening angles for a couple of my knives.
- Helle-made laminated steel, used for field dressing large game
- Dozier D2 steel, also for dressing
I am currently using a regular Lansky set.

Any input appreciated!
 
With the lanskey system your dealing with a choice of two angles. I would use both. Start with the lowest slot (closest to knife) and sharpen a primary bevel. Finish up on the highest slot for a higher secondary bevel (actual cutting edge). Check out Steves' site. He explains different techniques and systems in detail.

http://www.ameritech.net/users/knives/index.htm
 
Actually, Lansky lets you choose 4 angles. I find that 20 is plenty sharp on my knives, and 25 is good for softer steel knives which will be beaters. For the D2, you might even want to go 17.

For the helle blade, I'd do it freehand. It's very, very simple, and you won't have to regrind it. At least, that's what I did for my brusletto.
 
I have a Lansky, and use the 20 degree setting on all my knives. I start with the extra course stone first, then work my way down to the fine stone. The first use of the extra course stone ( used when first sharpening ) can still take a while to get the initial twenty degree angle, as the original blade angle may be different. But once you get the knife sharp using the extra course stone, then you start working your way down to: course, medium, and fine. My knives come out razor sharp. When they eventually need to be resharpened, they will come out razor sharp in just a few minutes, by using the same twenty degree angle. If the knife isn't too dull when I put it in the Lansky, I start with the course or medium, then work down to fine. I have the Lansky diamond system. Be sure to use the honing oil. If you have the stone for serrated edges, the angle setting is thirty degrees. Note : You don't need to apply a lot of pressure when using this system. I also put masking tape on top of blade before inserting in clamp, thus keeping scratches off blade.
 
When sharpining a knife with the Lansky for the first time I match the original angle by starting off usually with the 20 degree hole and a permanent marker then I fine tune the angle according to how much of the guide rod I put in the hole(sounds kind of kinky, he, he). You can either match the original angle or change it slightly with this method. I keep the angle and the distance from the guide rod to the base of the stone for each knife in a notebook. Not claiming to be an expert but this works for me. Also I write down the position or positions of the clamp. Also, the amount of turns you give the finger screw matters beceause the mor it is turned, the more the clamp spreads out, Changing the position of the guide holes.
 
Back
Top