Choosing steel for Para 3

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crydajam

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Mar 16, 2022
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Recently, I have decided to get my really own build for Spyderco Para 3, I have decided almost everything: scales, backspacer, clip etc. Only the blade steel is left to be chosen.
I am considering between REX-45 (highest priority), CruWear, 10V (hope to catch upcoming exclusive) and 3V.
I want it to be tought and I dont really care about corrosion resistance, as long as it is not crutial (like for the maxamet?). In fact, it is even a benefit to have beatiful patina.
I used to have a Para 3 in Maxamet, forced a beautiful patina on it, but then saw a video by Millie PM2 P3 Club, where he does not recommend to force patina on the Maxamet, but adds that for M4 and REX 45 it is good to go.

So, among these 4 steels, which one woulde be recommend? Does CruWear care about the patina or is it like REX 45, good to go? And what about 3V?

And in terms of toughness (only), which one is better 10V, 15V or REX 45? Again, how does the 10V and 15V perform after forced (or natural ) patina?

P.S. I am willing to use the Para 3 for EDC, mainly for food prep, so rust scenario can not be avoided.


Thank you for your suggestions in advance!
 
Cruwear is a nice balance of toughness and edge retention. Haven't seen much if any patina on my Stretch 2 so can't comment on that, I do live in a very humid environment but keep the blade clean and a light coat of mineral oil on it.
 
My Para 2 with CTS BD1N may be one of the best knives I've ever held in my hand. Dollar, for dollar-fantastic!

Yet, I don't carry it because I like other knives more.

[No offense to my friends in Golden Colorado, USA, Planet Earth]

My point: whatever steel you choose, Spyderco will deliver unto your hand a great blade.

I love my Para 2. The blade is wicked sharp. Kissed me once already.

Your choice is about use and the blade won't fail you.

Good luck!
 
crydajam said:
Recently, I have decided to get my really own build for Spyderco Para 3, I have decided almost everything: scales, backspacer, clip etc. Only the blade steel is left to be chosen.
I am considering between REX-45 (highest priority), CruWear, 10V (hope to catch upcoming exclusive) and 3V.
I want it to be tought and I dont really care about corrosion resistance, as long as it is not crutial (like for the maxamet?). In fact, it is even a benefit to have beatiful patina.
I used to have a Para 3 in Maxamet, forced a beautiful patina on it, but then saw a video by Millie PM2 P3 Club, where he does not recommend to force patina on the Maxamet, but adds that for M4 and REX 45 it is good to go.

So, among these 4 steels, which one woulde be recommend? Does CruWear care about the patina or is it like REX 45, good to go? And what about 3V?

And in terms of toughness (only), which one is better 10V, 15V or REX 45? Again, how does the 10V and 15V perform after forced (or natural ) patina?

P.S. I am willing to use the Para 3 for EDC, mainly for food prep, so rust scenario can not be avoided.


Thank you for your suggestions in advance!
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First of all, I don't believe Spyderco has made Para 3s in 15V or 3V (maybe 3V, but it would be hard to find and expensive due to collector value)

That leaves 10V, Rex 45, and Cruwear from your list.

10V and Rex 45 are going to gain a patina pretty quickly if using them for food prep. Even cutting into meats with such blades can produce a gnarly patina. Cruwear is a little more stain-resistant than the other two.

If you want toughness and more stain-resistance, Cruwear is your best bet.
If you want edge retention, 10V all day
If you want to be awesome, Rex 45 will wins (just cause it has 'REX' in it's name)

I'd go with the 10V personally. Mainly because it's going to be challenging to find a Rex 45 Para 3 for a comparable price to the 10V since you'd be buying on the secondary market. Cru-wear could be your cheapest option if you're willing to buy on the secondary market tho.
 
minimag03 said:
First of all, I don't believe Spyderco has made Para 3s in 15V or 3V (maybe 3V, but it would be hard to find and expensive due to collector value)

That leaves 10V, Rex 45, and Cruwear from your list.

10V and Rex 45 are going to gain a patina pretty quickly if using them for food prep. Even cutting into meats with such blades can produce a gnarly patina. Cruwear is a little more stain-resistant than the other two.

If you want toughness and more stain-resistance, Cruwear is your best bet.
If you want edge retention, 10V all day
If you want to be awesome, Rex 45 will wins (just cause it has 'REX' in it's name)

I'd go with the 10V personally. Mainly because it's going to be challenging to find a Rex 45 Para 3 for a comparable price to the 10V since you'd be buying on the secondary market. Cru-wear could be your cheapest option if you're willing to buy on the secondary market tho.
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thanks for the reply!
I think, I got confused, I mean 4V with DLC, the St. Nick exclusive one
and for 15V, I meant recent BBB 15V Pm2/Manix/Shaman sprints, I hope there will be para 3 soon.

What would you say about forcing patina on 10V? There will be an exclusive soon, I hope to grab one.
And in terms of toughness, what will be better between 10V and Rex-45?
I have had S35VN sprint, does rexy perform similaly in terms of toughness?
 
S45vn is very good
I like Maxamet and on small blades it really makes sense
If you can pick a 10V dlc it can also be a good option for high edge retention and limited corrosion issue due to the coating
 
A St. Nick's 4V Para 3 will cost a lot too, easily $50-75 more than a 10V from REC. And you won't be able to get a patina on the blade like you've mentioned.

10V is slightly tougher than Rex 45. Rex 45 might be slightly harder though, but not by much. Both should be around the 63-65 HRC range from Spyderco.

S35VN and 10V have equal toughness, with Rex 45 very close behind. However, the hardness of both Rex 45 and 10V will actually lead to better fine edge performance. Unless you're abusing your knife (intentionally or not), toughness isn't as important as hardness.

You should check out Knife Steel Nerds for info such as this.

I don't know much about forcing patinas on blades, besides the fact that they normally need to be resharpened afterwards. I've only allowed for natural patinas to form on mine through regular use.
 
You're fine to force a patina on any of your choices. I'm not sure why that guy you're talking about said not to force a patina on Maxamet, I've never done it myself though. I only forced a patina on one blade before, I just let it happen naturally as it makes me feel better that I did it through use. I'd probably lean towards the Cruwear or 10V options myself for an all around edc type blade, but any of them will work great for you as long as you're not doing crazy stuff with them. The 10v and Cruwear should be easier to sharpen too. I reprofiled my Kizer Sheepdog in 10V and it sharpened easier than I thought it would. It's a coated blade unfortunately, I'd rather it be satin, however the edge does show a little bit of patina.
 
I do find myself enjoying Cruwear more and more these days. Great all around steel for my needs..
 
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