chopping branches

hardheart

hardheart

Joined
Sep 19, 2001
Messages
8,968
Well, control wasn't the easiest to maintain, and the edge ended up reflecting a bit of light nearer the handle, where I made most of the contacts. No rolling, tearing, smearing, cracking, melting, exploding, etc. of the blade. But one can only expect supreme durability from such thick stock. Took nearly 2 minutes on the sharpmaker and strop to restore clean shaving. Man, what a day.





 
ok, before anyone accuses me of bias for fixed blades, I used one of my stoutest folders for the same task

 
You're a moron, quit trying to break your knives just to imitate Cliff Stamp. Anyone with half a brain knows that knives can't handle chopping, much less through something so thick and tough. Your knives should be confiscated!!!1 :mad: :thumbdn: :mad: :thumbdn:

Also why would you use a ruler to measure things?!? RIGHT TOOL FOR THE JOB!!!

..Funny post you have there :]..
 
I think you need to repete these tests with a Benchmade 770 to get truely scientific results. :) :D
 
that's a good idea, db. Things should start falling into place by the end of the week, had a little holdup. :D
 
I wonder how my leatherman juice blade would do, I'd hate to have to rely on it and have that nagging feeling that it might fail at any second.
--Dave ;)
 
hardheart said:
I used one of my stoutest folders for the same task ...
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Damn, I just got one of those recently as a gift. I was going to be all origional and planned to give it a run this weekend building a shelter, starting a fire, etc. . It is really well accepted here as a tool and not a knife because carpenters/electricians carry them so it is accepted in many places which are not overly knife friendly.

-Cliff
 
Vivi said:
You're a moron, quit trying to break your knives just to imitate Cliff Stamp. Anyone with half a brain knows that knives can't handle chopping, much less through something so thick and tough. Your knives should be confiscated!!!1 :mad: :thumbdn: :mad: :thumbdn:

Also why would you use a ruler to measure things?!? RIGHT TOOL FOR THE JOB!!!

..Funny post you have there :]..
Click to expand...


say it.

Frank
 
Viv, you'll learn one day the joys of having a big, burly blade like the ones I have pictured. To go after something as harsh and unforgiving as wood with anything less would be foolhardy.

Cliff Stamp said:
Damn, I just got one of those recently as a gift. I was going to be all origional and planned to give it a run this weekend building a shelter, starting a fire, etc. . It is really well accepted here as a tool and not a knife because carpenters/electricians carry them so it is accepted in many places which are not overly knife friendly.

-Cliff
Click to expand...

If it has the same blade retention setup, then I suggest a bit of tape or something over the latch. It popped free from impacts a few times; had to keep my thumb over the latch and index finger under the gate to keep it closed.

You'll also all have to excuse a bit of hyberbole on my part... it really took less than a minute to restore a fine edge to the fixed blade. I had to make the sharpening fit the eXtreme abuse the blade suffered from such testing.

Now I have to eat a side of beef, lift some boulders, and watch Rambo: First Blood Part II before I do some more cutting.
 
This... was a lot of swings. No edge damage, but it doesn't shave anymore. Rostfrei may be some of the toughest stuff on the planet, but edge retention is a bit off with Linder's grind. Guess I'll thin it out and try some more. The cut is just about as deep as the hollow grind of the blade (1 cm).
 
hardheart said:
If it has the same blade retention setup, then I suggest a bit of tape or something over the latch.
Click to expand...

Spruce root. I am curious actually how much use it would be to just have the blade. These are constantly recommended for mini-kits and of just how much value are they for such work. Are they relegated to just precision work or would they significantly reduce the time/effort to do large scale tasks. The first thing I am going to try is to lash/glue it to a stick to make a mini-axe. It would be easy if I cheated and drilled holes in it, which you could do before you packed them.

-Cliff
 
Well, gee, I guess a report on batoning a Utility Hak is just redundant now. I'll probably have to work overtime this weekend anyway.

It won't fit in an Altoid tin either.
 
Dog of War said:
.... what is that little fixed blade in your original post?
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Custom mini-Steel Heart, 1/2" thick INFI, full convex grind, apex angle 35 degrees per side, edge, 1/4" thick; made for extremely demanding use such as chopping small sticks. Jerry is bring out a new model at the end of this year which is for the really hard work like slicing crusty French bread and drilling holes in styrofoam. L6/S5 bainite/martensite laminate. The inner S5 core is 3/8" thick and the bainite L6 slabs are each 1/2" thick. The blade is basically full stock except for the last 1/8" towards the edge which has a convex grind which peaks at a 90 degree apex angle.

-Cliff
 
Cliff Stamp said:
Custom mini-Steel Heart, 1/2" thick INFI, full convex grind, apex angle 35 degrees per side, edge, 1/4" thick; made for extremely demanding use such as chopping small sticks. Jerry is bring out a new model at the end of this year which is for the really hard work like slicing crusty French bread and drilling holes in styrofoam. L6/S5 bainite/martensite laminate. The inner S5 core is 3/8" thick and the bainite L6 slabs are each 1/2" thick. The blade is basically full stock except for the last 1/8" towards the edge which has a convex grind which peaks at a 90 degree apex angle.
Click to expand...
Hate to say it, but with just that description alone Jerry could probably sell all he could make! You ever think about going into advertising, Cliff? ;)
 
Dog of War said:
Hate to say it, but with just that description alone Jerry could probably sell all he could make!
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Yeah, 100% emperical science is like that, even wore a lab coat while I typed it. Origionally there was a transverse differential temper on the S5 core but cost constrained it to through hardened. There is a higher end version coming out next spring which is a L6/L6-mod martensite/bainite micro-laminate which is made of 64 sheets which are HIP to create one fully integrated product. They are alternating 66 (martensite)/58 (bainite) HRC. At the central core is a sheet of 10 micron thick pure vanadium carbide which forms the edge. It is made for opening blister packs and the like. There is a developmental model in the works which is made for batoning which has the martensite layers replaced with a micro-polymer which is designed for high elasticity and resilence and the central core is 100% fused mono-synthetic diamond. The big problem is the sheaths.

-Cliff
 
lmao

I bought it from Knifemaker87. Funy thing is, it might be L6, it's made from a bandsaw blade. Amazing to think that steel that thin could actually be used to cut wood, and on a power tool, at that.
 
Thanks, hardheart.

So .... is Busse licensing the design from Knifemaker87? Or is Busse letting him use this special laminated INFI?

Never trust a Chinese ruler of any kind.

I think I'm gonna be really confused if this thread goes on much longer. :)
 
hardheart said:
...it might be L6, it's made from a bandsaw blade.
Click to expand...

Was there ever any doubt.

Amazing to think that steel that thin could actually be used to cut wood, and on a power tool, at that.
Click to expand...

Standard Olfa knives and regular trade knives are about 0.020" thick. The x-heavy duty is only 0.030" and that's for the heavy cutting where the blade has to do significant prying (no joke). The one which is used just for paper and cardboard is only 0.010" thick.

Dog of War said:
... is Busse licensing the design from Knifemaker87?
Click to expand...

It is an alias, prototyping under an assumed name so as to prevent brand bias.

-Cliff
 
Cliff Stamp said:
Yeah, 100% emperical science is like that, even wore a lab coat while I typed it. Origionally there was a transverse differential temper on the S5 core but cost constrained it to through hardened. There is a higher end version coming out next spring which is a L6/L6-mod martensite/bainite micro-laminate which is made of 64 sheets which are HIP to create one fully integrated product. They are alternating 66 (martensite)/58 (bainite) HRC. At the central core is a sheet of 10 micron thick pure vanadium carbide which forms the edge. It is made for opening blister packs and the like. There is a developmental model in the works which is made for batoning which has the martensite layers replaced with a micro-polymer which is designed for high elasticity and resilence and the central core is 100% fused mono-synthetic diamond. The big problem is the sheaths.

-Cliff
Click to expand...


:D :D :D

seriously ive never seen pure v-carbide is it actually being produced? in reality would it fuse together at all (v-carbide and steel, im guessing yes)? would it delaminate easily? i think youre on to something here, maybe cubic boron nitride or boron carbide core would work too. or perhaps aggregated diamond nanorods
 
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