Chopping technique discussion

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Jan 28, 2002
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I'm interested in hearing if there is a preferred or most efficient way to chop through a piece of wood in terms of angles and placement of cuts in the area you want to chop through, as well as maintaining a smooth rhythm and minimizing binding. I've watched those lumberjack competitions on ESPN and they seem to alternate angles to form a V-shaped cutout in the wood, and they work around the wood when possible. How do you chop, when using a knife?

How would you handle dried or frozen wood? When gathering deadfall, do you cut branches against the ground or try to prop them against something if possible? Are there any tricks to stabilize the wood other than holding it with you hand or putting it against your foot?

Edited for clarity & spelling.
 
This is a good topic. I try to gauge the hardness of th ewood and the size. For smaller diameter or softer material, usually a slight elbow swing and wrist snap does the job. As the wood gets larger or harder, more of the elbow and shoulder is brought into play. If you have volume 9 of the Woodsmaster, Ron demontrates this exact technique.
As far as stabilizing the wood, I guess it depends on what it is, the size etc. I just try and get it into as safe and secure a position as possible. And never chop in line with my body.
 
SteelDriver said:
When gathering deadfall, do you cut branches against the ground or try to prop them against something if possible? Are there any tricks to stabilize the wood other than holding it with you hand or putting it against your foot?

By "chopping" I assume you mean with an axe due to your reference to the lumberjack contests. Checking out Cliff Stamp's posts and reviews on chopping would be a good opening recommendation for researching this topic.

In general and IMHO, if "deadfall" isn't dry enough (and small enough) to crack off the tree with your hands, it isn't as dry as you'll want it to be for building your fire. If you need to crack large branches off deadfall, use a baton to club it off. (no cutting edge to endanger you if you miss on the stroke ;) )

Please don't stabilize wood for chopping by holding it in your hand or (shudder) putting it against your foot. These techniques put the swinging edge too close to body parts if you miss your target. Ignore the fact that I chop branches held in my hands -- this is a "Do as I say, not as I do" situation. ;) :rolleyes: I do this in the backyard where first aid and the ER are not far away.

Out in the woods, lay the wood being chopped on a rigid supportive surface that won't damage your chopping edge if you miss. Then still be careful and attentive with your blows. From what I've read, chopping is an acquired art and it takes a fair amount of practice to become really proficient and efficient at it.

My $0.02 is to avoid chopping if you can. There are usually safer ways to gather wood. I pack a folding saw to harvest larger deadfall or section wood out, then use a baton & mid- to large-size knife to split it, if needed. For packable saw recommendations, a search here will bring up lots of input. It's been covered several times. And let's please not turn this into yet another "axe vs saw vs large knife" discussion, that's also already been beaten to death multiple times. TIA.
 
Rokjok,

I was thinking more in terms of chopping with a knife (sorry if I wasn't clear in my post), thinking that the same principles can be carried over from axe use. Thanks for your advice on holding the wood. I've had a few close calls before, but never thought much of it and was always close to first aid ;). I do remember reading some of Cliff and Jimbo's discussions on axe work; I'll have to look those threads up again :).

I agree with you that breaking wood or using a saw are much safer than chopping. My point is not to debate the merits of the tools used, or the situations when you need or don't need to chop wood. Maybe a better way of asking would be, if you're going to chop with your knife/khukri, what are some tips & techniques that you've found helpful? How would you handle some tougher or unusual situations, such as seasoned hardwood?


tknife,

Thanks for your comments. Do you still use the wrist snap on larger wood?
 
Maybe for the first few cuts to get started, but I find that my wrist gets tired quickly if going thorugh thick or very dense wood. It's very rare that I've had to chop through anything really big though.
 
First of all I am not much for chopping I am more of a breaker myself chopping uses up valuable energy and time wedge between to trees and walk with it or find a rock and swing off to one side as to clear the follow through and the rebound.
With any type of chopping you are trying to clear the wood by the growth ring levels hence the wedges. As the cutting device comes in you want to sever through the growth rings at an angle the intrusion of the blade causes the wood to pop across the growth ring leading to the next cut which is on the other side of the V you are creating. Working to the middle of the log allows you to remove growth rings in successive levels once hitting the core area the growth rings are not able to come off as easily. That is why the Lumberjacks do the swing around to cut through. An axe blade has more width and angle of intrusion causing more of the wood to become dislodged. With a knife you still have to maintain a large enough wedge to allow accesss to the next level of chopping but you will need to strike each level in smaller sections after outlining the size of the first V.
 
It's best to strike at an angle rather than perpendicular to the branch/log. If the wood is too thick to be cut with one swing, then you must continue cutting a V shaped notch.

Against smaller diameter woods, or wood that is unstable, a fast swing from a lighter, longer blade (such as a machete) will be more effective. If the wood is thick enough or stable enough, then a (relatively) slower swing from a heavier blade such as the Kukri will be more effective.

Throw in another vote against holding branches while cutting! One of our salesmen was elk hunting with his son out west. His son tried holding a branch while cutting, and managed to cut a huge gash across the back of his hand. Since they were miles from civilization, his dad said "Grit your teeth, son", and sewed him up right there. Also, not only should you not cut in line with your body, don't even cut a line anywhere close to it. If you hit the wood at too steep an angle, (especially with a thick convex edge, as would be found on most kukris) the blade may bite just into the surface and be deflected back out of the cut again, (worse on flexible green saplings) sending it directly at your legs. This has happened to me several times while cutting smaller saplings with my big Bowie, but luckily my reflexes were quick enough to get out of the way. If I had been on slippery or uneven ground, I probably would have needed a trip to the ER.
 
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