Chopping: thick and heavy vs. thin and light

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Jan 25, 2010
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Years ago I had a field to clear for a garden, roughly an acre, that had grown up with lots of 2-3" saplings. I was using two blades to clear them, both versions of Cold Steel's All-Terrain Chopper (a modified kukri design) in Carbon V steel with kraton handles: one was 1/8" thick, the other 5/16". Except for weight, edge geometry, and thickness, they were identical.

What I found was that the 1/8" blade was the more aggressive chopper: it could take a bigger 'bite' out of a sapling; but I also discovered I had to work a lot harder with it---even though it was lighter---to make it work. But when I did, it made quicker work of taking down a sapling. I'm sure the thinner edge geometry had a lot to do with it.

The 5/16" blade wasn't as aggressive a chopper, but---even though it was heavier---I found I could work a lot longer with it without my arm and hand getting tired. I could hold it looser in my hand, and let the momentum of the heavier blade do the work. It didn't cut down a sapling as fast as the thinner blade could; but it was the one I ended up using most of the time.

I know, these aren't Busse blades... but it seemed relevant to all the chop talk going on around here...
 
I have chopped with both a lot and I will take a thick heavy blade any day over the thin light one. ;)

But then I can swing a heavy blade. ;)
 
Thick spined/heavy convexed blade tapering into a relatively thin high polished convex edge. Best of both worlds.

I don't like super thin/light blades for heavy chopping, but it's a personal preference. I can swing a heavy knife all day long, some can't, or don't want to. It's all up to the individual. I like thick knives, but thick rough ground edges aren't my thing.
 
Hacking brush, vegetation, limbs under 2 inches diameter or springy growth, I'd take light and thin.

Chopping wood, heavy and thick.

Would put a thin edge on either :D
 
If im just working on the property id prefer something havier. However, if Im off for an extended hike, i prefer a thinner and lighter blade. Just depends on my situation :)

That being said, I really like my BWM. It is perfect for me.
 
I like to chop with a thick blade.....but I'd rather carry a skinny one. Plus, skinny is a better all arounder....like a short machete/jungle blade.

Both are great in different ways. If I could only have one I'd probably get neither and have a quarter inch blade to be honest. Best of both worlds. But hey....why not have all three and pick the right tool for the right job :D
 
This whole thin vs. thick is getting like Bloods vs. Crips. :D

Watch out!

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I've always been a fan thick for Busse. If I need thin and light there are disposable machetes well suited for the job.
 
If im just working on the property id prefer something havier. However, if Im off for an extended hike, i prefer a thinner and lighter blade. Just depends on my situation :)

That being said, I really like my BWM. It is perfect for me.

Just ordered one Friday! So I might be on the BWM band wagon soon enough. For now, if it's wood, I really like the KZ. An axe usually works better, but it's just not as cool. NMSFNO has worked on just about everything else and is a little easier to carry around than the KZ, and by a little, I mean alot. I've been looking for something in between the NMSFNO and NMFBM, and I think the BWM will give me just that.

In regards to the topic on hand, it comes down to a matter of personal preference, the person's ability, and the circumstances (temperature, task, duration, etc), and probably the first factor more for some than others. Like I'd like to use the MOAB for everything, but I really just don't have the stamina to do so, and well, peeling an apple is just easier with a small sharp knife. On the other hand, there are other people who would use a MOAB for everything, and proudly do so.

Hopefully, this doesn't turn into another discussion about mass versus velocity or comparing bullets to knives as in the "fi-zix" thread. I feel that it might, so let me say this, gravity. Freedom. Alcohol. Lots and lots of alcohol.
 
Well, what really matters is the edge geometry.
For instance this:
100_0113.jpg

Is a Himalayan Imports 20" Chiruwa Ang Khola, made of 5160. Yes, 20", makes the Zilla look svelt and the Battle Mistress (any of them) look downright small. It's my primary woods blade.

You can see the large fuller, the flattish portion of hte blade, and then the bevel. The thing weighs over 3 pounds, has a .5" spine, and chops AND slices like a demon. How? It tapers all the way from the spine. That final bevel you see? It goes all the way to the edge and ends with a sort of shallow convex micro bevel, resulting in something along the lines of 12-15 degree inclusive edge geometry. It's gone through 4" of pine in a single swing, 2" of oak in a single swing, and a lazy swing or mere flick of the wrist will cut light grass and other soft vegetation with ease. If you roll the edge (they rarely chip), you can steel it back in a few seconds (the Chakmak, or sharpening steel, is included with the kukri, as is a small knife called the Karda).

Oh, and if we want to compare penises on the use/abuse issue, the HI testing procedure for a kukri will void the warranty on most knives (Short version: slam it as hard as you can on a tree trunk, on the sides, spine and edge several times. Drive the point into some wood and pry back and forth. Embed the edge in some wood and work it back and forth to make sure the blade won't break in normal use). And they believe in the strength of the Chiruwa Ang Khola so much that it's their only model that is warrantied for use as a prybar, and if you break one in the defined "normal use" (see their website), they'll send TWO to replace it. All this to make it known I'm not using a dainty model designed for fine slicing, just that it does it well.

So, there's no reason, except edge geometry why a thick blade can't be the superior all-around tool.

As for the BWM, I love it. Used it to make supper a few times. Slices potatoes and onions without breaking pieces off -- just clean slices. Slices meat like there's no tomorrow. It makes the best fuzz sticks of any knife I own, including my convex ground BRKT Aurora.

When it comes to chopping, it's the ugly girl at the dance compared to the CGFBM or larger BM blades. The CGFBM and larger blades don't hold a candle to the kukri above for chopping, and I assume once the geometry changes are done for the release of the Zilla, it also will put those blades to shame.

Someone mentioned machetes being great choppers. In defined circumstances, they can be. However, the machetes that are good choppers are 18-24" long, not the little 12" kitchen knives some call machetes. If you look at it the reason is clear. With the longer machetes (which natives in tropical places use, they don't use the short ones), there is a lot of weight (due to the width of the blade) and leverage out near the end to really drive the blade in. A shorter blade has to be thicker, heavier and as wide as possible to accomplish the same thing. Also, Every machete I've seen easily chips or rolls the edge, quite quickly on hard woods, and forget frozen wood. hence, why they are popular in the tropics and not in the northern areas where the axe is king.

So there is no clear cut answer based on thickness and weight alone, as to whether or not a knife will chop and/or slice well.
 
Well, what really matters is the edge geometry.
For instance this:
100_0113.jpg

Is a Himalayan Imports 20" Chiruwa Ang Khola, made of 5160. Yes, 20", makes the Zilla look svelt and the Battle Mistress (any of them) look downright small. It's my primary woods blade.

I have the standard 20" AK, never used that one though as I haven't needed too because the 18" AK handles it. :D

Nice photo. :thumbup:
 
Thanks, man.
Yeah, it's a beast, but when I ordered it, I had specific parameters in mind, namely I wanted something that could replace the BFK, machete, and hatchet in my inventory with one tool. Outchopping an 18", 1.75 pound hatchet is a tough row to hoe for a knife, so I went big. It worked out in spades. IMO, for what I do, a kukri under 18" is a waste of time.
 
Thanks, man.
Yeah, it's a beast, but when I ordered it, I had specific parameters in mind, namely I wanted something that could replace the BFK, machete, and hatchet in my inventory with one tool. Outchopping an 18", 1.75 pound hatchet is a tough row to hoe for a knife, so I went big. It worked out in spades. IMO, for what I do, a kukri under 18" is a waste of time.


That would be hard for sure, the HI AK's are very good choppers. :thumbup:

I might have to bring out the 20" AK and do a video on it, I have so many knives to shoot videos on, I will get to them in time. :D
 
Thanks, man.
Yeah, it's a beast, but when I ordered it, I had specific parameters in mind, namely I wanted something that could replace the BFK, machete, and hatchet in my inventory with one tool. Outchopping an 18", 1.75 pound hatchet is a tough row to hoe for a knife, so I went big. It worked out in spades. IMO, for what I do, a kukri under 18" is a waste of time.

Hey, I just did a video comparing the Himalayan Imports 18" AK against the FFBM, do I even need to tell you what the results were? LOL :D

Yes a Khurki will out do a bowie style blade, but then it will also out do an AXE so we are talking about two totally different tools here. :)

It should be noted that the AK is a lot heavier than the FFBM, like almost 2 pounds heavier or twice what the FFBM weighs and a lot thicker at .500 to .3125 for the FFBM. :)

I have more photos that I will post with the video once it uploaded. :)



 
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I have Khuks since 8 years and I've never found a big knife able to chop as a Chiruwa Ang Khola from HI. That was my photographic report of a HI Chiruwa in 2002 : http://membres.multimania.fr/stephensee/

Machetes are good for light to medium vegetation. Bad on plain wood.

Heavy Ifugao Bolos from Luzon jungles are terrific :




I need to buy a straight heavy FBM to make a comparison with the unique curve of a khukuri.
 
I have Khuks since 8 years and I've never found a big knife able to chop as a Chiruwa Ang Khola from HI. That was my photographic report of a HI Chiruwa in 2002 : http://membres.multimania.fr/stephensee/

Machetes are good for light to medium vegetation. Bad on plain wood.

Heavy Ifugao Bolos from Luzon jungles are terrific :




I need to buy a straight heavy FBM to make a comparison with the unique curve of a khukuri.

Nice photos. :)

I already did it, video is uploading now. :D

But yeah get an FFBM, they are awesome blades. :thumbup:
 
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