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Christmas Becker and a sharpening question...

Joined
Jan 22, 2010
Messages
10
I thought I would start this with a pic or two of my Beckers. The BK2 was my gift to me this year.

Beckers 006 (Medium).JPG


Beckers 014 (Medium).JPG


As I am a real rookie with sharpening stuff, I have been looking at the WSKT system, hoping that even I could get sharp knives with this system. I also hear about the advantages of convex edges and it makes sense to me and I'm hoping this sharpener would allow me to do this.

I've always kind of collected knives more than use them. I have a couple I have used alot but I usually just buy another knife when I can't get em sharp again. I have several others that I would use more if I knew I could make em sharp again. I'm liking the Beckers for many reasons but mostly to use them. Any chance of wrecking the blade with a power tool? or should I start with some other system?

Thanks for any advice. Becker fever is gettin expensive.
 
check out this video. I made it for liveitloud. Worksharps and sharpmakers work very well, but there aint nothing like a free hand razor edge. Although ethan would prob have you continue buying when they get dull

[video=youtube;7y4C_7dDz6s]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7y4C_7dDz6s&context=C351ab58ADOEgsToPDskIHM5keeRwszClHt3MKv3q4[/video]
 
btw to answer you question, you CAN ruin a blade with a power tool by either over heating and ruining the heat treat, or removing to much metal. If your a beginner id stick to manual systems, or practice belt sander sharpening on some junk steel until you learn the technique
 
Sharpening any knives takes practice. But you must start somewhere. The biggest issue with sharpening is getting the angles correct and even. Practice, practice, practice! Take your time and check out videos. You'll be a pro in no time. Then you can find other reasons to buy more knives.

Pat
 
Clich what kind of waterstone is that? I'm in the market for a new stone system, been thinking about the wskt but I still like doing them by hand, plus I've looked for years and just can't seem to find an outlet anywhere I camp :D
 
My meager advice on sharpening is this.... For a novice (which I am) work with the finest grit and lightest touch you can get by with. I am FINALLY starting to equate knife sharpening with the Hypocratic oath of "doing no harm". Point of that is, light strokes on a medium to fine grit stone will either sharpen the blade or do no major harm. You will have a lot of fun (at some point) reprofiling, raising relief edges and maybe even grinding your own blades eventualy. JMHO, stick to freehand sharpening and learn the old school way. But I have been guilty of air-tool grinding the sabre grind of Spyderco Delica into a FFG. ;)
 
patience and practice, for myself it's a Zen like thing working my tools by hand....sure there are all types of gizmos , guides, and systems...learn to do it by hand.
 
Clich what kind of waterstone is that? I'm in the market for a new stone system, been thinking about the wskt but I still like doing them by hand, plus I've looked for years and just can't seem to find an outlet anywhere I camp :D

Its a cheap king stone 250/1000 . I dunno why folks don't like em, they get a bit muddy but it puts a good edge on so what's the difference.
 
If you do any power equipment you have to use light passes and be ready to dip in water. I use my KMG with an old worn out 320 belt and make light consecutive passes. Although I only do this to establish the edge. Then I use diamond, stones and strop for shaving edge. Took a while to get'er down and I still have much to learn with lots of practice.
 
I've had really good success with my Sharpmaker system. The newer ones come with the back-bevel angle and the 20 degree (per side) angle for the edge. Everything I sharpen with it is shaving sharp, but I'm also going to start stropping to go the extra step.

I do need to try my hand at some bench stones, though. What are people using with success? I'll check out the ones Clich mentioned.
 
A lot of people use the Norton fine red India stone (including Jerry Fisk and Ethan). A major plus is it isn't an expensive stone.
 
A lot of people use the Norton fine red India stone (including Jerry Fisk and Ethan). A major plus is it isn't an expensive stone.

That will be my next one once I wear out the waterstone. If it ain't broke don't fix it
 
Thanks for the video and the other advice...I have a couple of stones like that here somewhere and I just probably need to get them back out and practice. I am not the most patient when it comes to this stuff but maybe I've gained a little in my old age. I just cannot seem to get a consistent edge and I either go too slow and don't seem to be doing anything or go too fast and wreck the angles of the edge. I am one of those who needs some kind of guide as I have difficulty keeping the whole edge at the same angle during each stroke.

Another question about the convex edge thing...I use small carbide v notch tools to field sharpen (as long as I haven't messed the edge up trying to sharpen at home) but they come in fixed angles. These seem to work well for me during a field dress or some other chore. But, if I were to have a blade convexed, could I still use these? I have 30deg for my Benchmades and a Smiths I carry with me in my pack. convex, angles, bah...it's all so confusing...

I've always been more about shooting than cutting and it's coming back to haunt me now that I have taken a bigger interest in sharp stuff. Thanks again for all the advice and that video makes it look so easy. I will keep trying to make my knives sharp myself.
 
The advantage of having my B-day right after Christmas...my wife asked if there's anything I wanted that I didn't get. :) Looks like a bench stone will be on that list and maybe something to sharpen with it. Can't decide if I want the BK5 or a Fiskars splitting axe.
 
Thanks for the video and the other advice...I have a couple of stones like that here somewhere and I just probably need to get them back out and practice. I am not the most patient when it comes to this stuff but maybe I've gained a little in my old age. I just cannot seem to get a consistent edge and I either go too slow and don't seem to be doing anything or go too fast and wreck the angles of the edge. I am one of those who needs some kind of guide as I have difficulty keeping the whole edge at the same angle during each stroke.

Another question about the convex edge thing...I use small carbide v notch tools to field sharpen (as long as I haven't messed the edge up trying to sharpen at home) but they come in fixed angles. These seem to work well for me during a field dress or some other chore. But, if I were to have a blade convexed, could I still use these? I have 30deg for my Benchmades and a Smiths I carry with me in my pack. convex, angles, bah...it's all so confusing...

I've always been more about shooting than cutting and it's coming back to haunt me now that I have taken a bigger interest in sharp stuff. Thanks again for all the advice and that video makes it look so easy. I will keep trying to make my knives sharp myself.

Carbide "drag" sharpeners are fine for field expedient edges, but I find the are a "last resort" for me. On the convex question, if your inclusive edge is thinner than the opening of your drag sharpener, then it will work, but it will ruind the convexing you have on it.

I dont' use a convex edge, I use a V edge and a sharpening system, currently, a MADE IN THE USA KME Knife sharpening kit. Best I've ever used. Before that, I used a Lansky. KME is better.

I do have some convexed knives, and IMO, they are al right, but I can do a much better job for my knives, on my systems.

With knife edges, its all about symetry. Some folks can free hand the hell out of a knife, I've met a few, and I am always jealous of that ablility. For the most part, most folks that free hand sharpen a knife, are convexing it.

I'll also suggest a strop, of some kind. I prefer canvas, but leather works just fine. So does carboard.

Good luck and let us know how it works.

Moose
 
Carbide "drag" sharpeners are fine for field expedient edges, but I find the are a "last resort" for me. On the convex question, if your inclusive edge is thinner than the opening of your drag sharpener, then it will work, but it will ruind the convexing you have on it.

I dont' use a convex edge, I use a V edge and a sharpening system, currently, a MADE IN THE USA KME Knife sharpening kit. Best I've ever used. Before that, I used a Lansky. KME is better.

I do have some convexed knives, and IMO, they are al right, but I can do a much better job for my knives, on my systems.

With knife edges, its all about symetry. Some folks can free hand the hell out of a knife, I've met a few, and I am always jealous of that ablility. For the most part, most folks that free hand sharpen a knife, are convexing it.

I'll also suggest a strop, of some kind. I prefer canvas, but leather works just fine. So does carboard.

Good luck and let us know how it works.

Moose

Thanks for the info. That is the type of sharpener I was considering prior to coming on this forum and hearing convex and other terms. I saw a thread about the power tool sharpener and thought I would ask a few more questions. I think I just need some type of guide to keep my angle correct and repeatable. I've seen several types of these and it even seems as though these systems could be used to convex, if one wanted, with some backing on sandpaper cut to fit the holders. I would rather just be able to get a sharp knife like it comes. I'll see what I can find like this and try sharpening some not so sharp blades around here. I would rather try by hand first before using power...I can see myself having 10% less blade once I got both sides even...LOL

thanks again
 
I pulled the trigger on a WorkSharp power tool. The local BiMart had one on display and the guy there knew how to use it. Once I saw it work, it was a no brainer for me. I brought it home and sharpened 20 knives. Most didn't take 2 minutes. I guess they weren't that dull after all. I did spend a little extra time with my BK2, going slow and easy. It has stayed pretty sharp thru all I've put it thru...not much compared to some of you, LOL...but it's really easy to tell the difference after sharpening. I even sharpened my first knife. It had been sharpened a time or two by someone that knew what was up but I haven't used it in 25 years. It looks like hell and the handle is a bit loose between the spacers but it's sharp now.

I'm still practicin with my stones and steel though as I really need to learn to make a knife sharp without electricity...LOL
 
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