CKRT M16: Use of Locktite? & How Tight Should Blade Pivot Screw Be?

[Lovegasoline]

First post here, great forum!

I purchased a CKRT M16 13-T knife last week. My first new knife in ten years (previous EDC knife a Gerber EZ-Out beater...I stepped on it and the side panels cracked).
This is the M16 w/3.5" clip point blade, titanium side panels. I'm pleased with the knife but except for a problem with the main pivot point screw whcih results in the blade constantly coming loose (this is the slotted screw with the checkering). In the first few days it kept working very loose so that the knife would slop around a bit. I'd tighten it...still leaving enough play to flip open the blade. It would loosen again...so on and so forth. Yesterday, I pulled the knife from my pocket and the entire screw had worked it's way out and was in the bottom of my pocket!
My question is: how tight should I torque the screw down and what sort of Loctite should I use to keep it in place? I want to be careful not to cement the pivot bushing and washer in place...is Locktite the way to go? Also, how tight do I torque the screw??? All the way in locks the blade SOLID. If I make it too loose so that it opens nicely and super rapid with very little effort, is it possibile that the knife functions too much like a 'gravity knife' and will become illegal to carry in NYC? BTW, in the past I've often had police officers inspect my pocket knives upon entering certian public buildings....they would hold the knife (Gerber) and try to flick it open by gravity alone, sometimes being very persistant at it....trying to discover a weapons violation.
Also....yesterday I noticed that one of the side panels was loose...one of the torx screws had loosened up. I tightened it and all the other side panel screws.
The knife was new in sealed plastic when bought. Other than this aggravation, the only other thing I dislike is I'd like to see a tiny bit more extension on the thumb flip knob(when used in the right hand) it is a bit too flush for my liking...and I prefer to carry blade up in pocket, but this knife carries blade down...obviously so the blade doesn't get accidently 'flipped' open in the pocket. Haven't owned it long enought to judge the blade quality/edge holding properties or overall durability. The 'Flipper' feature is very nice.
The knife is going to be my EDC and the blade grind is a good sleek profile for pencil and lead sharpening which I do a lot of on a daily basis...and I wanted a clip opoint for any detail cutting I would need to do. Handy compact, attractive, reasonably priced (under $60 shipped on Ebay).
Overall I'm delighted with the knife so far.
Thanks a bunch for any tips and advice on the blade screw fix.

 

[Ookpik]

I suggest you use some Pematex Threadlocker. You should be able to find it at an auto parts store. The Permatex site recommends low strength purple for bolts under ¼”. I like the medium strength blue better.
Do the side panel screws first. Do them one at a time. Remove a screw. Make sure the screw is clean and free of oil. Apply the Threadlocker to the screw with a toothpick. Just use enough to fill the end two threads. Put the screw back in and do the other screw.
I can’t tell you how tight to make the pivot. That’s up to you. It depends on how you use the knife and legality. Experiment until you have it just right. Once you are satisfied with the adjustment, it’s time for the Threadlocker. Remove the screw. Make sure the screw is clean and free of oil. Apply the Threadlock to the screw with a toothpick. Just use enough to fill the end two threads. Put the screw back in and adjust to the same blade tension you had from your experiments. I’m not sure how long the Threadlocker takes to completely harden. I wouldn’t use the knife for about 12 hours, just to make sure.
I like that knife!

http://www.permatex.com/

 

[calyth]

Blue Loktite should fix it for you.
Just be careful when you put it on.
As with the pivot, it depends. Up here, law says it can't flick open with one hand (without technique), so I tend to keep it at that level, or better yet, I've moved to Spyderco and the majority of my blades don't have that problem.
I'd say as long as the lock is not compromised, and the law allows, do whatever you want.

 

[Lovegasoline]

Thanks!

 

[klattman]

Purple (222) loctite is weak, then blue (242), then red (262).

Purple/blue can be removed with force alone.
The red is mostly permanent, though it can be removed with a lot of effort and heat (only on larger fasteners).

I would suggest putting the loctite on just the few threads farthest away from the mechanism, only enough liquid to fill in the threads, be neat and use as little as possible. Purple may be good enough, and it's easy to remove if you goof up, if you find that the purple doesn't hold, use the blue.

look here:
http://www.smallparts.com/products/descriptions/AL.cfm

 

[Klesk]

I use the blue Loctite, as has been suggested above.

As for how tight the pivot should be, it somewhat depends on how you like it. At minimum, on all my linerlocks, with the blade open, I thumb the liner aside so that there is no pressure on the blade tang. I then tighten the pivot screw until there is no side to side blade motion. In a perfect world, that would be it; in this imperfect world, it's a good place to start.