Clay???

F

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Aug 25, 2002
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Is there a special clay used for clay hardening? A redi made one or do people mix there own?
Ive seen clay used to make a hamon in carbon rich based steels, what does it do for damascus? Thanks.....Bob m
 
Satanite is the standard. You can use the Red Devil stove cement found at the hardware store. The biggest thing in hamon development is the steel needs to be shallow hardening. It needs to be a very low alloy high carbon steel. You can get something similar to a hamon on deeper hardening steels but it is normally straight with no activity. So long as you use the low alloy shallow hardening steel in your Damascus it will work great. Take a look at Sunfish Forge AKA Don Hanson III. he has done some great hamons on Damascus. Also if you think about it all the Japanese swords were a form of Damascus.
 
Also, if your heat is controlled and accurate, you really don't need a lot of clay (if any sometimes) to get a great hamon. The clay just helps give you a method to control the heat and its placement. With a shallow hardening steel, all you need is for the heat to be sustained in the spine for just a little bit during the quench, and the thickness of the spine relative to the edge sets it up for that situation already.

Just a little clay (thin) will do you if your heat is correct.

--Nathan
 
Thanks alot.....So the question is 1) where can I buy satenite 2) does it come with instructions...3) is there any puget sound guys who could help show me how, then help me do one, then supervise me doing one.....
 
I picked up several pounds from Darren Ellis. No instructions needed, really. I mix mine with water until it looks to be the right consistency (smooth, but not runny). Then spread a thin layer on a clean blade. Spread it evenly on both sides covering maybe 1/2 of the width of the blade depending on the thickness (thicker blade typically needs less, thinner slightly more). Don't worry too much about creating a fancy pattern as the hamon isn't going to really follow that pattern much until you get pretty good at heat control and clay application. Spread maybe 1/16" or less in thickness. Let it dry or use a heat gun to speed up the process a bit. Fill any cracks that develop. Pop it in the oven/forge to heat as needed per the steel, quench, knock off the clay when it comes out of the quench, and temper.

After that, you won't be able to see anything other than oxidation. Grind the blade clean and smooth down to your final grit, then start working by hand. I go up to 2000 grit by hand typically then etch in ferric chloride diluted with water. Make sure the blade is clean when you etch. After a short etch (I go for around 30 seconds), pull it out and polish away the oxides. I use iron oxide and WD40 on a paper towel wrapped around a sanding stick for this. Polish, etch, polish, etch, until you get the show you want.

--nathan
 
If you're ever down in portland there's a couple local shops that have it as well...
 
Wally Hayes gets it to the consistancy of somewhere between a milkshake and white glue. I have heard folks say that they coat the entire blade in a milky thin layer of clay slip first.

Bear in mind, that I have almost zero experience with hamon... just passing on observations.

Rick
 
I am following this thread cause I used the furnace cement a few times but the particles in it are a little large (like sand). It doesn't produce a creamy enough consistency for me. And it easily lifts from the blade at spots when it dries.
 
Yeah, I probably go for near a sour cream to milkshake consistency.

Patrice, I tried Rutland's furnace cement a couple of times, and experienced the same thing with lifting. It also tends to create more pits for me in the areas where there is not perfect coverage.

--nathan
 
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