Claymore. What do you recommend？

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Xiaofeng

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Dec 25, 2021
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Hello, everyone . I just joined. I want to collect some longswords. I found the following three. I don’t know how well the 1055 and 5160 perform in the longswords. I don’t consider stainless steel.
I like Claymore. What do you recommend？

https://www.knifecenter.com/item/CS88HNH/cold-steel-88hnh-hand-and-a-half-sword-carbon-steel-blade

https://www.knifecenter.com/item/CI...d-and-half-sword-blade-leather-wrapped-handle

https://www.knifecenter.com/item/CISH2395/cas-hanwei-tinker-longsword-blunt-tip-unsharpened-trainer
 
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Some of the LARP supply sites, have Claymores with the historical angled guards, and a proper 4 foot plus blade. Either dull/unsharpened "battle ready", or sharpened.
 
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This one....

04bo7d2.jpg
 
lieferung said:
Quoted with translate for those who couldn't see it.

We have a sword subforum I would take a browse around there for Claymore info instead of this GKD forum.
Click to expand...
Can you please provide a url
Thanks you
 
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Xiaofeng said:
Hello, everyone . I just joined. I want to collect some longswords. I found the following three. I don’t know how well the 1055 and 5160 perform in the longswords. I don’t consider stainless steel.
I like Claymore. What do you recommend？

https://www.knifecenter.com/item/CS88HNH/cold-steel-88hnh-hand-and-a-half-sword-carbon-steel-blade

https://www.knifecenter.com/item/CI...d-and-half-sword-blade-leather-wrapped-handle

https://www.knifecenter.com/item/CISH2395/cas-hanwei-tinker-longsword-blunt-tip-unsharpened-trainer
Click to expand...
1055 and 5160 can both be used to produce a functional sword, it really depends on the heat treat. I don't know how well it translates, but a wall-hanger is a sword shaped object that shouldn't be used for cutting or training, and sometimes not even for swinging around--a bad heat treat can make the steel either too brittle and it shatters, or too soft and it bends. Look for the words "battle ready" or "cutter" for a better idea of whether or not it's going to perform as a weapon.

Of the three brands you mention, Cold Steel makes functional swords known for toughness. The tradeoff is that they are extremely heavy and tend to handle like sharpened pry bars, not very sword like. Hanwei does decent entry level work with swords, their Tinker swords are more "realistic" than Cold Steel and are really a decent quality for the price. Legacy Arms has a bit of a mixed reputation, in that I've heard the swords are good but the availability and wait times are really inconsistent. You are right to steer clear of stainless swords, anything from the 400 series is intended more for display than use, with 420 being the most common. Anything by United Cutlery falls into this category, really. The darkknight armory is super expensive, with prices that are marked up at 30-50% over what other retailers charge based on a several items I saw. I would go with knifecenter, and probably a Tinker. The one you linked was a trainer, by the way, which has blunted edges and tip for training in Historical European Martial Arts, and it seems to be well thought-of by people who train.
 
Saw quite a few genuine claymores in museums and castles on a walking tour in Scotland about three years ago. Massive things. I knew a rancher in British Columbia who was adopted from Scotland as a child; he was then in his 80's and still 6'8" with thick wrists and powerful arms; I could imagine him whipping a claymore around. Basket-hilted sabers appeared to be a lot more common.
 
Alberta Ed said:
Saw quite a few genuine claymores in museums and castles on a walking tour in Scotland about three years ago. Massive things. I knew a rancher in British Columbia who was adopted from Scotland as a child; he was then in his 80's and still 6'8" with thick wrists and powerful arms; I could imagine him whipping a claymore around. Basket-hilted sabers appeared to be a lot more common.
Click to expand...


Basket hilted broadswords are claymores in fact
 
Hamwei has both highland and lowland claymores. Arms&Armor does claymore. The Hanwei highlander is a popular choice. The lowlander is huge.

Merry Christmas
GC
 
Ill second the thought of checking out Arms and Armor.

www.arms-n-armor.com

Arms & Armor

Medieval and Renaissance historical weapons and armor replicas of the highest quality.
www.arms-n-armor.com www.arms-n-armor.com

Albion also makes great swords, but nothing I would consider a "claymore."
 
shane45-1911 said:
這個……

04bo7d2.jpg
Click to expand...
謝謝
BitingSarcasm said:
1055 and 5160 can both be used to produce a functional sword, it really depends on the heat treat. I don't know how well it translates, but a wall-hanger is a sword shaped object that shouldn't be used for cutting or training, and sometimes not even for swinging around--a bad heat treat can make the steel either too brittle and it shatters, or too soft and it bends. Look for the words "battle ready" or "cutter" for a better idea of whether or not it's going to perform as a weapon.

Of the three brands you mention, Cold Steel makes functional swords known for toughness. The tradeoff is that they are extremely heavy and tend to handle like sharpened pry bars, not very sword like. Hanwei does decent entry level work with swords, their Tinker swords are more "realistic" than Cold Steel and are really a decent quality for the price. Legacy Arms has a bit of a mixed reputation, in that I've heard the swords are good but the availability and wait times are really inconsistent. You are right to steer clear of stainless swords, anything from the 400 series is intended more for display than use, with 420 being the most common. Anything by United Cutlery falls into this category, really. The darkknight armory is super expensive, with prices that are marked up at 30-50% over what other retailers charge based on a several items I saw. I would go with knifecenter, and probably a Tinker. The one you linked was a trainer, by the way, which has blunted edges and tip for training in Historical European Martial Arts, and it seems to be well thought-of by people who train.
Click to expand...
seem to see a better material here, if I want to look for s7 steel, will it be impractical forgingworld.com/whats-the-best-steel-for-a-sword-7-best- options/
 
Xiaofeng said:
謝謝

seem to see a better material here, if I want to look for s7 steel, will it be impractical forgingworld.com/whats-the-best-steel-for-a-sword-7-best- options/
Click to expand...
I don't recall seeing any S7 blades in the standard commercial lineups of any of the bigger companies. That could be due to it either being an expensive material or difficult to work. If you want to go the custom route, it's very expensive but you will get exactly what you want. I wouldn't worry so much about a great stat line in every category, some of the qualities like hardness and toughness are in opposition with each other. Corrosion resistance isn't a big deal unless you live in a humid or salty area and intend to store the blade for long periods. There are many ways to protect from corrosion too, like Flitz or Rennaissance Wax. Corrosion resistance is the one quality you can directly affect as the end user, and if you are willing to put in the effort it can be removed as a factor in your choice of blade steel.
 
Thank you everyone, you guys let me know that there are more choices, and I also found more in the process, let me know that I didn’t work in vain, just like looking for treasures in rpg, filled with fun
 
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