Clean oil from g10 scales?

Z

Zakk Wylde

Joined
Apr 11, 2011
Messages
165
hey folks;
after cleaning my tenacious and oiling the pivot ,some of the extra oil(wd40) come out from pocket clip holes and come to the g10.now this area looks more dark than the hole scale.i think i cant do anything to clean oil from g10 since oil soak in g10.
need your help.i think im anal about these thinks :D(Dont get mad cus its tenacious i asked this question for all knives:D)
 
The good news is, G10 isn't going to be harmed by the WD-40. The darkening is just mineral oil left behind, by the WD-40.

This might sound odd, but it may be simpler to apply some WD-40 to the whole handle, to 'even up' the light/dark mis-match. Let it soak a bit and then, if you want, just wash the whole knife in hot water and liquid dish detergent. Dry everything thorougly, then re-evaluate the finish left. Either way, even if it doesn't quite correct the staining, the handles won't be harmed by it. And periodic washing of the knife will likely clear most of that up, anyway. If the knife is a user, there's not much reason to worry at all.
 
i clean my knives often so its gonna less visible by time probably.
And the darkening is just a small place so it isnt that neccesary to apply oil to all handles.But thanks for the tip if sth occurs bad im gonna keep in mind that.
 
I'd use the tip of a rag with a tiny bit of dishwashing soap on it. Wash - rinse - dry (all with different spots on the rag and them use blow dryer. You won't even see it.

Or put something on the whole handle and wipe it down with a clean dry rag like a bit of an old T-shirt. Somethines I spray a light mist of Rem-Oil on my whole knife and wipe it off. They look like new.

Sorry David - I think I just re-wrote your instructions! :)
 
G10 is impervious to just about everything. Technically it doesn't absorb fluids, but the very outside layer where the glass fibers have been machined WILL wick a little bit and hold it. A light coat of WD-40, mineral oil, or silicone won't hurt a thing. If you want to wash it off, cziv's idea should work fine.

Oh, and also just want to point out - WD-40 is technically NOT a lubricant of any sort and does not contain oil of any kind. ;)
 
Not sure what you should do, as I haven't much experience with such things. But here is what I would try:

(1) Using a tooth-brush rub some Dawn dishwashing soap into the area. Let it soak for a hour, then rinse with warm water from a sink-spray. Dawn is considered to be very good at removing grease/oils by nature conservationists, who use it to clean animals contaminated by oil spills.
(2) If that doesn't work, maybe try an ultrasonic cleaner with some (a lot of?) Dawn in the water. I think Harbor Freight sells some low-end ultrasonic cleaners. The ultrasonic micro-bubbles/cavitation might be able to get the oil out of some of the pores.

No idea if any of these would work. Just some random ideas of mine.

Sincerely,
--Lagrangian
 
I can't believe this thread went past David's post. I'm guilty too. I have to try some Dawn soap in a low-end ultrasonic cleaner. The ultrasonic micro-bubbles/cavitation method sounds like the ticket for the next time I get an oil spot on my g-10 handle!! :D :D :p
 
I'm going with the coat the rest of the scale and make it all uniform, IMO it looks better and it won't hurt a thing!
 
Oh, and also just want to point out - WD-40 is technically NOT a lubricant of any sort and does not contain oil of any kind.
Click to expand...
^The above statement is flatly and verifiably wrong.

WD-40 is a mix of solvent ('aliphatic hydrocarbon') AND mineral oil ('petroleum base oil'). That's what makes it works the way it does. It's listed in the product's MSDS (link to .pdf file below). The solvent is what thins the oil and allows it to penetrate deep, forces water out, and it also degreases. The oil is what remains after the solvent evaporates, and lubricates after the fact.

Here's the 'Product Use' statement, quoted from the MSDS (highlighting added for emphasis):
"Product Use: Lubricant, Penetrant, Drives Out Moisture, Removes and Protects Surfaces From Corrosion
Click to expand...

Here's the Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS), from the WD-40 site:
http://www.wd40.com/files/pdf/msds-wd494716385.pdf
 
Last edited:
Thanks guys for the tips.yeah dishwashing soap method seems fine.but if it doesnt work im gonna put oil all handle but now its good just some tiny spots.(can use these if anything happens to the para2 that im gonna buy :D)
Btw im not impressed with wd-40 it dont stay on the blade .olive oil stays more :D Any suggestions for lubricating washers and pivot area?(no i cant find rem-oil there think sth international :p )
 
Zakk Wylde said:
Thanks guys for the tips.yeah dishwashing soap method seems fine.but if it doesnt work im gonna put oil all handle but now its good just some tiny spots.(can use these if anything happens to the para2 that im gonna buy :D)
Btw im not impressed with wd-40 it dont stay on the blade .olive oil stays more :D Any suggestions for lubricating washers and pivot area?(no i cant find rem-oil there think sth international :p )
Click to expand...

Might have a look at this currently active thread:
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...u-guys-use-to-clean-and-lubricate-your-knives

Assuming your blade is stainless, I wouldn't worry too much about oiling the blade itself. Just keep it clean everyday and put it away dry; that'll do 99% of the job. If you still want to oil the blade, food-safe mineral oil (USP grade) works pretty well.
 
Well dang, you learn something new everyday. I had no idea that there was any oil in WD-40. I still wouldn't recommend it for lubrication, but that's another matter.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top