Cleaning an Opinel

[Bugout Bill]

AlriFury, I've got a Opinel no. 8 in carbon steel that I EDC. it usually gets used for food prep, and, although I clean the blade after every use, it's getting kind of funky. My question to you all is what would be the best way to clean it?

 

[MNofUSN]

if you dont want to take it apart, use some shot gun bore cleaner or even Remsoil and spray it down with that then dry it off & clean it with warm soapy water(avoid soaking the scales in all of this) ... rinse in warm water, dry then add some lube

good as new

 

[G. Scott H.]

The method above sounds like it'd work okay, though I've never tried it. For future reference, when I first get an Opi in the mail I pop the locking ring off with a set of C-clip pliers and then let the pivot end soak in a small cup of mineral oil overnight. Take it out next day and spend 15 min. or so getting all the excess whiped away and you'll end up with a fairly waterproof handle around the pivot for quite some time. If you don't do something like this, the smallest bit of water in the pivot area will swell the handle and make opening/closing difficult until it dries back out.

 

[Bugout Bill]

Well, the pivot area is the scummiest. I think I will try washing that area out with some soap and water, let it dry, and then tuff glide the pivot area tomorrow. I'll keep y'all posted on how that turns out.

 

[G. Scott H.]

You might try soaking the pivot in oil of some kind before you do that. Even if the pivot is scummy, some of the oil is bound to get into the wood. It'll make things a bit easier. I'm fortunate to live in the desert where a wet Opinel dries out in only a few days. Out where you're at it could take considerably longer. Please do let us know how it goes. :thumbup:

Btw, some guys do a more permanent waterproofing on these by pulling off the locking ring, tapping the pivot pin out, removing the ferrule and the blade, finishing the whole handle with something like tung oil, and then reassembling. Not really worth it to me in this climate, but it could be very worthwhile in a wet and humid area. :thumbup:

 

[Sonnydaze]

Is the Opinel worth all this trouble? I've considered one for the kitchen, but...

 

[Bugout Bill]

Is the Opinel worth all this trouble? I've considered one for the kitchen, but...

It's $8 and cuts like a demon, of course its worth it!

 

[G. Scott H.]

Is the Opinel worth all this trouble? I've considered one for the kitchen, but...

Only you can answer that. They are worth it to me. They look nice, they're cheap, they're light, and they slice like the dickens. They also have a rustic charm to them and are fun (and affordable enough) to customize. What they aren't are set-it-and-forget-it knives. They do require some basic maintenance. All I really do to mine is the mineral oil pivot soak as needed (which amounts to maybe 4 times a year for me personally, could be more or less depending on how often and for what you use them) and wipe the carbon blades down with an oily rag right after use (or asap if I use it out away from the house).

 

[Bugout Bill]

Ok, I cleaned the opinel this morning by washing out the pivot area and collar with soap and cold water. I then left it out to dry. The gunk seems to have been cleaned out, it opens much easier than it did before. I don't think the wood got soaked that badly, but I'm gonna let it dry out for another day before I hit the pivot with some tuff glide.

 

[jackknife]

Ok, I cleaned the opinel this morning by washing out the pivot area and collar with soap and cold water. I then left it out to dry. The gunk seems to have been cleaned out, it opens much easier than it did before. I don't think the wood got soaked that badly, but I'm gonna let it dry out for another day before I hit the pivot with some tuff glide.

Bill, don't worry about getting the wood wet. It doesn't swell that bad that you can't open and use the knife, and it dries out in a couple of hours. I've experimented after lubing or greasing the pivot in mine, and let it stand pivot down in a glass of water for half an hour. It gets stiff, but not impossible when you do the "Knock' as they call it. When it's dry, lube it with a bit of mineral oil, or do the Vasoline grease job. I smear vasoline in the pivot area, and then wipe out the excess with a folded up paper towel. The knife then is pretty water resistant. I got that from a guy who was born and raised in Paris. It works.

Carl.

 

[CWL]

if you dont want to take it apart, use some shot gun bore cleaner or even Remsoil and spray it down with that then dry it off & clean it with warm soapy water(avoid soaking the scales in all of this) ... rinse in warm water, dry then add some lube

good as new

Since this knife gets used on foods, I would suggest that you substitute food-grade oils for the gun oils/cleaners. Mineral oil or olive oil would be a safer choice IMO.

If you have the inclination, you can seal the pores of the wood with anything from melted wax to linseed oil (wait for it to cure) so that it won't absorb food and germs to become "funky".

 

[G. Scott H.]

It gets stiff, but not impossible when you do the "Knock' as they call it.

That's been my experience too. I've never had an Opi "freeze" up after getting wet, just takes a lot more effort to open and close until the water evaporates. :thumbup:

 

[Esav Benyamin]

From an older thread: (my bolding)

I love Opinels. It's not built for abuse like batonning, but there is no better slicer. Thin, high-quality carbon steel is rockin'. The only issue you'll probably encounter is that the wood swells with moisture, making it hard to open. The locals in Savoie (where Opinels are from) use the "coup de savoyard": hold it by the bolster and knock the end against something hard. The blade comes out just enough to grab. Here's mine with forced patina:

 

[phillipsted]

Since this knife gets used on foods, I would suggest that you substitute food-grade oils for the gun oils/cleaners. Mineral oil or olive oil would be a safer choice IMO.

I wouldn't advise using olive oil. Most olive oils contains significant quantities of chlorophyll which causes the unsaturated fats in the oil to break down over time. Basically, the oil goes "rancid" as it ages. Mineral oil is much more stable and doesn't have this problem...

Even though USP Mineral Oil is rated for food contact surfaces, if you look at the MSDS for many of the common lubricating oils (e.g., Nano Oil, TufGlide) - many of them are non-toxic and quite benign. The manufacturers just haven't bothered to send them through the required testing to get the "food safe" label. I use TufGlide on all of my non-stainless kitchen knives - letting it thoroughly dry before cutting food, of course...

TedP

 

[Bigfattyt]

Is the Opinel worth all this trouble? I've considered one for the kitchen, but...

Yup, in my book. Tough, cheap, and cuts like a laser.

Honestly, I get my pivot wet occasionally, and it does not make it prohibitively difficult to open and close.

I just have to use my thumbnail, instead of opening it one handed.

I only have a little #6.

Based on that, I intend on getting more, in different sizes.

I have nothing that cuts like it. Nothing close.

It peels potatoes like a laser!

Because it is so thin, it is one of my knives I just maintain the edge on ceramic sticks.

It is light, strong, locks when you want it to.

Great utility for the value. Love it.

 

[drail]

I have a No 6 that I bought for backpacking back in the 70s. I can't backpack any more so now it lives in my kitchen and man, it DOES cut up veggies and taters and maters like a laser. I love it. The only thing I would use to clean it is steam/boiling water and or good detergent (no oil) followed by some compressed air to blow the crud out. They will get funky when used in the kitchen so keep it clean and dry. But they are a pure joy to use. I wish they would produce a line of old time carbon kitchen knives like Old Hickory. I would buy the whole set.

 

[G. Scott H.]

I wish they would produce a line of old time carbon kitchen knives like Old Hickory. I would buy the whole set.

I'd love to see them do a carbon line of their Classic Kitchen knives (#118, 120, etc.). Not holding my breath, but a guy can dream, eh? :thumbup:

 

[Obsessed with Edges]

Opinel does have a carbon paring knife (sold in sets of 2). Search on 'Opinel Carbon Paring Knife No. 102'. Haven't seen/found other Opi kitchen knives in carbon, however. Having said that, their stainless (Sandvik 12c27Mod) is very good, and used in their other kitchen knives.

Here's a pic from one online seller:

 

[Bo T]

Opinel does have a carbon paring knife (sold in sets of 2). Search on 'Opinel Carbon Paring Knife No. 102'. Haven't seen/found other Opi kitchen knives in carbon, however. Having said that, their stainless (Sandvik 12c27Mod) is very good, and used in their other kitchen knives.

Here's a pic from one online seller:

I have a set of these paring knives. The patina they end up with after a year or so is really fantastic. And they sharpen up really easily and cut really well. There is a thin gap between the wood and the partial tang, so they are not appropriate for a commercial kitchen.