Cleaning coated blades

E

Etna

Joined
Jun 17, 2015
Messages
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I have a large number of inexpensive S&Ws that were purchased recently, some of which I have started using as a daily cutting tool. Most of these blades have black / grey-coats over them (y'know, because of the whole tacticool thing).

Problem is, the blades that I use have started to accumulate tape and adhesive residue, which looks kind of offputting. How can I go about removing them? I remember reading somewhere that isopropyl alcohol works well in attacking those residues, but will they affect the blade's coating?
 
Just get some Goo Gone; it's exactly made for such tasks, and it'll get the job done. Just moisten a Q-tip with it and apply to the sticky residue; wait a few minutes for it to loosen up the glue, then wipe it off.

Some dark coatings can be dulled/flattened or made lighter in color by isopropyl alcohol; very cheaply applied coatings might even be removed by it. It'll work, but you might not like how it leaves the finish. Certain adhesives won't always be removed by it, but instead dried out & hardened (found this out the hard way).

Other things can also work, like WD-40 or lighter fluid.


David
 
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I've had pretty good results with soap and water and even better results using CLP. With CLP, you'll want to wash the blade after if you intend to cut any food with it.

Goo Gone sounds like the right tool for the job.
 
On my ZTs, I've removed what I thought were scratches on the DLC. A pencil eraser took off what turned out to be particles of the metals and other materials I'd cut. A 'friend' put my ZT0200ST through a can on peaches, and it looked all scratched up from it. The eraser took the marks off easily. Turns pit that the DLC is very, very tough.
 
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I use Equate Isoproyl Alcohol USP, 70%. It removes sharpie marker from the blade as well. The only coated blade I have is my BK&T\KA-BAR\ESEE BK14 and Laplander 396. The alcohol will disinfect the blade if your working with plants. Say if your working with a diseased plant or tree, you can then transfer the disease to a healthy one if not cleaned first.
 
I get tree sap and glue residue from cardboard boxes on my knives all the time.

Dish soap and warm water have always worked very well.
 
If you were to wipe the blade down with a wet\damp cloth after applying Isoproyl Alcohol, would that not minimize the so called damage?. Then you let it dry for a minute, then give it a coating of mineral oil USP.
 
Dry-cell said:
If you were to wipe the blade down with a wet\damp cloth after applying Isoproyl Alcohol, would that not minimize the so called damage?. Then you let it dry for a minute, then give it a coating of mineral oil USP.
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The lightening of color that I've noticed on dark-coated blades, after using IPA, happens essentially immediately. The alcohol evaporates in seconds anyway, so wiping down the blade wouldn't really change much of what happens. I wouldn't quite characterize it as 'damage', as the alcohol isn't really hurting it. But the lightening of color is something to consider before using it. Dark-coated blades will usually lighten up or fade with time & use anyway, but the alcohol will accelerate that a bit.


David
 
Windex or WD-40 solve all of my knife blade residue issues; if one doesn't work the other gets the job done.

Rinse repeat as needed. ;):thumbup::D
 
Obsessed with Edges said:
Just get some Goo Gone; it's exactly made for such tasks, and it'll get the job done. Just moisten a Q-tip with it and apply to the sticky residue; wait a few minutes for it to loosen up the glue, then wipe it off.

Some dark coatings can be dulled/flattened or made lighter in color by isopropyl alcohol; very cheaply applied coatings might even be removed by it. It'll work, but you might not like how it leaves the finish. Certain adhesives won't always be removed by it, but instead dried out & hardened (found this out the hard way).

Other things can also work, like WD-40 or lighter fluid.


David
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Obsessed with Edges said:
The lightening of color that I've noticed on dark-coated blades, after using IPA, happens essentially immediately. The alcohol evaporates in seconds anyway, so wiping down the blade wouldn't really change much of what happens. I wouldn't quite characterize it as 'damage', as the alcohol isn't really hurting it. But the lightening of color is something to consider before using it. Dark-coated blades will usually lighten up or fade with time & use anyway, but the alcohol will accelerate that a bit.


David
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That's going to be quite the problem because my blades are barely two weeks old. Ideally I'd love for the black and grey coatings to last for at least a year or so before they start fading away.

They don't sell Goo Gone where I live, will WD40 or lighter fluid attack the coat as quickly as IPA does? Also, a few of them blades are high carbon (non stainless), should I oil them or is the coat capable of slowing down rust formation?
 
Etna said:
That's going to be quite the problem because my blades are barely two weeks old. Ideally I'd love for the black and grey coatings to last for at least a year or so before they start fading away.

They don't sell Goo Gone where I live, will WD40 or lighter fluid attack the coat as quickly as IPA does? Also, a few of them blades are high carbon (non stainless), should I oil them or is the coat capable of slowing down rust formation?
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If Goo Gone isn't an option, I'd likely use the WD-40. It's a mix of light solvent (petroleum-based) and mineral oil, and it's very mild. I wouldn't worry at all about it harming the coating on your blade. The light bit of mineral oil left, after the solvent evaporates, can help protect the blade a little bit, AND it'll also make the dark finish appear a bit darker. The coatings on your blades should help with rust protection also, so long as they're fairly durable and don't peel off or blister.

Lighter fluid is a bit harsher than the solvent in WD-40 (if based only how my skin has reacted to it, in the past), though I've not heard of it attacking coated blade finishes, so long as they're not too cheaply applied. If you use it, you might test it on a small spot first.


David
 
Another thought:

If you're really intent on keeping the dark coating looking good, you might also consider waxing the blade after cleaning it. Speculating, but it might even help keep the sticky/gooey adhesives and such from clinging so tightly in the future. Wax isn't bulletproof, and it'll need regular upkeep, but it might keep your blade looking a little better. Renaissance Wax, neutral shoe polish or some automotive paste wax should work for that. They might add a little shine or gloss; if you want to maintain a flatter/non-shiny look, I'd likely avoid waxing. Might also be something to test on a small/inconspicuous area first.


David
 
I keep some Isoproyl Alcohol USP, 70% in a small applicator bottle. I squirt a good amount on the blade, (using my Bacho Laplander 396 as an example) and spread it around with my finger to get an even coat. I then wipe off the excess. It doesn't evaporate immediately unless I'm applying it with a cloth, and wiping down the blade down that way.
 
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