THIS IS WHAT YOU DO for all cleaning needs:
~~You will need:~~
**A brass gun cleaning specialties brush (1-3$, available at a gun specialties/reloading store or cheaper than dirt.com. Do not use as an abrasive with Phosphoric acid products, or whilst you apply them, as the acid will dissolve the brass onto the steel and leave a yellowish anodized look. Brush over red or black oxides with gentle to medium pressure to remove. Will also remove hardened black oxides from "pits" in blades) This is HARDER than the black/red oxides of rust, but softer than the steel itself, which means it will remove oxides from rust but wont scratch the steel itself(black and red patina and exfoliate pits)
http://www.cheaperthandirt.com/product/2-PROBZDE
**Loctite Naval Jelly: (6-10$This is acidic, and will loosen up the hardened black oxides so you can better remove them with abrasives; a pink jelly that you use in controlled applications with an abrasive. Apply with a Q-tip or straw to Pits in knife or entire blade and let sit until the outsides of the pink gel starts to turn a light translucent brown (about ten minutes) Then use an abrasive such as metal finish pad or steel wool to buff at the oxides. Rinse with warm water and dry with paper towel. Finish with metal finish pad. Repeat until you get desired result)
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Loctite-16-fl-oz-Naval-Jelly-Rust-Dissolver-Bottle-553472/203009241
**Metal Finishing pad: (1-3$ You use this as a heavy abrasive, to buff out the larger scratches and imperfections such as "pits" created from long exposure to oxides on the steel, with enough elbow grease you can buff out anything with this. It is about four times as abrasive as steel wool, and just as versatile, also will not oxidize like steel wool)
http://www.homedepot.com/p/3M-4-3-8...14NA-CC/100179600?keyword=metal+finishing+pad
**Black Sandpaper in 600grit wet/dry, and 2000grit wet/dry: (5-7$ You use the 600grit wet/dry for medium polish with grain, and 2000grit wet/dry for satin/mirror polish)
http://www.homedepot.com/p/3M-3-66-in-x-9-in-2000-Grit-Sandpaper-10-Sheets-Pack-5925-18-CC/205424291
**K1 Kerosene (relatively cheap, and available at your local gas station. This works as an excellent penetrant. You use this to clean knives after using anything acidic; such as naval jelly, clr ect... Keep in mind that K1 Kerosene is a "petrollium distillate". Petrollium distillates will darken leather and wood if applied to them, so use relative caution when applying them to knives/guns with wood parts. I keep a mason jar of K1 Kerosene at all times. It works great and is cheap. If you are very worried about the wood on your firearm/knife, use a german gun cleaning solvent called Ballistol. Ballistol is another excellent penetrant that is good for both wood and steel on guns and knives and safe to use on both. Ballistol is 8-10$ a can and found at **some gun specialties stores)
**SNO-SEAL (For all leather restoration needs. A beeswax product that will make old dried and cracked up leather new and pliable again. Contains silicon, I have noticed it will darken leather just a bit like Rem Oil, well worth the tie and money. Will swell up dried and cracked stacked leather washers on a hidden tang knife as well. Safe for metal, unlike most leather conditioning products. Apply product with a rag
liberally, and heat with a blow drier on medium-low heat. One technique I use is to spread gobs of sno seal onto the handle, wrap with aluminum foil as to keep the melted wax in, and leave the blow drier blowing onto the foil for 10-15 minutes on low-medium heat and then turn off the drier and let the wax and knife cool under the foil. This will work in as much product as possible, may take a couple applications)
**Rem Oil gun cleaner (6-8$ for a large spray can at most everywhere. Rem Oil is a gun cleaner and oil. Pretty nice stuff. It is a petrollium distillate, so use caution with wood FYI. Rem Oil is a dry feeling oil, that is not sticky or wet feeling to the touch. It does however have a sticky quality to it; it gathers lint like no other oil. Some folks hate this about Rem Oil and to those that want an oil that does not collect lint Go with Hoppes Weathergaurd (gander mountain, bass pro, specialties stores) Just apply to steel and wipe with rag/paper towel)
**00,01 Steel Wool (This will let you get into the hard to reach places of a knife; liner, frame, lock mechanisms ect and is cheap and available just about everywhere)
These are my most used products for cleaning knives. With all abrasives, remember to be careful of the "lines" of the knife blade. With all chemicals such as naval jelly, or clr, remember to keep an eye on your blade during application. Naval Jelly and CLR contain Phosphoric Acid.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phosphoric_acid#Rust_removal ** If you leave either of these products on too long, your blade will patina or pit. Remember to flush/clean your blade after application of acids with a penetrant such as K1 Kerosene or Rem Oil.
(Above left: This is not my knife - This is what my Cattaraugus Quartermaster 225q looked like before I cleaned it up) Below are my knives
(Cat. With Exfoliated pits **Naval Jelly, Steel Wool, Brass Gun Brush, K1 Kerosene, Sno Seal)
(Reground Cat.) **
(Reground Cat.) **
(Treating leather with Sno Seal) **
(Reground Cat.)**
(Unfinished Okapi Ratchet Knife)
(Unfinished Okapi Ratchet Knife)
(Rehandled and Finished Okapi Ratchet Knife; used metal finishing pad, steel wool, Rem Oil on blade)
(Rehandled and Finished Okapi Ratchet Knife) Made new handle from 3 aluminum breaker bars with 3/16" pivot screws.
(Rehandled and Finished Okapi Ratchet Knife)
**Let me know if there is anything I left out, or can help with. Just spreading the wealth of information and knowledge.:thumbup:
).
