cleaning rust from chrome vanadium steel

[edb]

I have a Case slipjoint with vanadium steel, and I'm quite underwhelmed

I have a couple other Case slipjoints that have ridden in my pockets, summer and winter, without any problems. This one, however, is now rusting -- having only ridden in my pocket for a week or two, then sitting on a shelf for month or so. The open/close action sucks ! THere is rust at
the pivot points, and also along the edges of the liners.

I'm inclined to wing it, but -- no. So, how do I clean out this crap?
I can now understand Case's decision to go to their newer steel (which
the other slipjoints I have are made of).

Thanks!

 

[TorzJohnson]

CV steel is not bad but it ain't stainless - you'll want to wipe it down after use and keep it lubed. To get the rust off, what I do is just open the blades and drop some oil over the rusted parts. Let it soak in for a while, then scrub off the rust with steel wool, or if it's a small area I'll scrape it off with a toothpick. Don't worry about restoring the perfect finish, just get off the rust, then wipe it clean and re-lubricate the pivot area. Work the blades for a while to get the oil down in there. Then, don't ignore it any more!

 

[STR]

Yes, I have run into this with Case and Marbles and some of my old Remington knives too. If they were highly collectible pieces I'd say use simichrome polish and try as best you can to polish out the rust parts and blend the finish. But since they are carry pieces I'd try something else. I have had pretty good success cleaning up my 'user' high carbon blades with the United UC135 multi purpose eraser. They are like $3.50 each from Smokey Mt. Knife works. Part # UC135. It will clean up the knife blades and the back of the springs and liners for you. You can cut the eraser thin to make them fit into the knife and after a bit of rubbing back and forth the eraser will conform to the shape of the parts it rubs over and clean them too. Just be aware to blow out the insides of the knife good before moving the blades. Then after all of the debris is cleaned out I usually blast a quick squirt of WD40 into it and then dry that out thouroughly before storing it. Prolong will work too. I've used both.

Note: If you are going to be carrying this knife be sure to dry out the knife good or the excess oil or it will just be a lint collector in the pocket. Most of the excess oil and any residue will come off with a paper towel and a small screwdriver used to push it down onto the parts to dry them off. Whatever slight film is left will just keep the metal from rusting as fast on you again but personally I don't like using oil on the knives I'm carrying. It just caused grit to get into the pivot points on the blades in the past when I've done this, so unless it is really bad inside you may want to skip the oil altogether.

 

[Piney]

I’ve carried a Case single blade trapper, high carbon steel for, believe it or not, about 50 years. About 15 years ago I left it on my boat at the shore and the salt air turned it into a block of rust. I soaked it in penetrating oil and worked and worked it, but it was still deeply pitted. I still carry it and even though pitted I could shave with it if I had to. The old knives rule.