cleaning up a damaged knife

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Nov 25, 2010
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Have a pre 1964 puma white hunter knife that was abused in a former life. Preserving someones attempt at sharpening with what I can only assume was a bench grinder is out of the question.

After removing grime, the blade has deep swirl marks in it and one side of the notches near the handle are almost completely gone. Have used wet dry sandpaper working perpendicular to blade from 320 down to 150 but marks are still there. Looks alot better but will I need to go down to maybe 100 or 80 and then work back up to get it right? Thinking I have to match the deeper scratches to get it more uniform then progressively work with finer sandpaper to get a matte type of look. Polishing the blade would just take too long.

Is there anyway to replicate the notch pattern on the one side of the blade so it matches the other? When I get done I will have to sharpen the blade. There is a pretty good sized ding, looks as if it was dropped on the floor or something. I believe the best way to do this is to sharpen until edge ding is removed then sharpen it convex to return it to its original edge pattern(believe puma knives came convex from factory?)

Man this has become quite a project. I will not be defeated, however. I absolutely love these older pumas. When their treated properly nothing I've found holds a edge much better.
 
You could try your method. It sounds like it would work if you are willing to invest enough time and sandpaper for restoring the finish, but you might want to get some much finer grits such as 400, 800, 1000, 1500 and 2000. These grits are what I can buy at my local Wal-Mart's automotive refinishing aisle. That would get you to a much more reflective finish.
 
You could try your method. It sounds like it would work if you are willing to invest enough time and sandpaper for restoring the finish, but you might want to get some much finer grits such as 400, 800, 1000, 1500 and 2000. These grits are what I can buy at my local Wal-Mart's automotive refinishing aisle. That would get you to a much more reflective finish.

starting at 400 is much too high to remove scratches. I would start at around 100 grit and work my way up to 600 grit for a satin finish, or 1500 for a mirror polish.
 
Thanks for all the info. I figured I needed to go coarser but didn't want to get too crazy to start with. Will need to get some coarser wet dry and keep at it.
 
starting at 400 is much too high to remove scratches. I would start at around 100 grit and work my way up to 600 grit for a satin finish, or 1500 for a mirror polish.

My suggestion was intended to suppliment the grits the OP already stated not as a starting platform. I agree with nc527 depending on how scratched the blade is when you start.
 
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