Cleaning up scratches on blades

russde

Gold Member
Joined
Feb 20, 2011
Messages
1,079
Hi all, first post here in Buck Land.
Recently 're-found' an old buck 110 that I had years ago and remembered how much I love this knife (the 110 in general, and this particular one).
So, my ocd has kicked in and I've purchased a few more used ones as well. I plan on using these, they aren't show knives, but I'd like to clean up the scratches on the blades to make them a little prettier without doing a full polish on them.
Any suggestions?

PS. Also found my old 319 in the same tool bag. I edc'd this thing for about 6 years. It is actually the very first present my wife of 20 years ever gave me. Got it from Buck in El Cajon back in '92 (I think). It's back in my front pocket today with a freshly honed edge.
 
They sell soft wheels that are made of the same material as Scotch Brite, which some call Tyco wheels. Three or four are ganged together to get the desired width. These can be mounted on a bench grinder in place of a grinding wheel. This solution works well for me.
 
If no grinder, use 320 grit sand paper to start and go higher until you are satisfied. Most 110's have a matted finish that you can repeat with the sandpaper.

Richard, where do you find the wheels, I do have a grinder.
 
If they are sharpening scratches from the coarse stone a sisal buff running at 1750rpm won't take them out. The Scotchbrite would have to be a good bit more coarse to remove them and loading it with grey rouge helps. So, depending on how deep the scratches are the 400g sandpaper may be a good thing to try first. Then the wheel. DM
 
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Industrial Supply Houses such as Production Tool Supply here in Detroit have the wheels also. These wheels are the same as what Buck uses to put the satin finish on the blades at the factory. Their's are around 12" Dia. however. These wheels are much more aggressive than the fine sand paper you are talking about above.
 
Thanks jb and Richard, will look around here first now that I know what I am looking for. Really do need one.
 
Go to Home Depot and buy some Scotchbrite sheets.

Cut them into squares and use an old CD to make them round.

Poke a hole in the middle and stack them until they are about the width of a buffing wheel.

I buy 110s with broken tips all the time, reshape the blade, touch it up so it doesn't protrude from the handle then hit it with the wheel.

This seems to replicate the factory finish.
 
That is what I was thinking about and was hoping someone would pass on some info. Thanks
 
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