cleaning up the eye.

O

Ohioan614

Joined
Jan 31, 2015
Messages
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I am planning on removing the lip on the eye. The head that I have has some pronounced ridges (1/8"-1/4") that run from the top to the bottom. Should these be filed down as well? I'll try to post some photo when I get back in the shop.
 
Sounds like your axe has eye ridges. Typically 4, 5 or 6 ridges in the eye. Leave those in place. File off any burrs on the top or bottom of the eye. Use half-round and round files for that work.

If you can find an un-kerfed haft they are much easier to fit into a ridged eye. Ridges will compress and 'spring-load' a kerfed haft. It's a PITA during the fitting process - hard to get on and off. Once you have your un-kerfed haft fully fitted to the eye then you can cut your kerf just before final assembly. Much easier this way.

Is this a single bit or double bit axe?
 
Yeah, those are the eye ridges I was talking about.

For single bit axes you can sometimes find un-kerfed hafts on that popular auction website. For double bit axes you can use a drift pick haft from House Handle. Those are also un-kerfed.
 
Thanks for the advice.

Would you make a relief groove for them or drive it home? My first thought is to tap the head on far enough to give me a witness mark and take a flush cut saw and sort of datto it or does that defeat their purpose?
 
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Square_peg said:
. . .

If you can find an un-kerfed haft they are much easier to fit into a ridged eye. Ridges will compress and 'spring-load' a kerfed haft. It's a PITA during the fitting process - hard to get on and off. Once you have your un-kerfed haft fully fitted to the eye then you can cut your kerf just before final assembly. Much easier this way.

. . .
Click to expand...

I have no experience with ridged eyes. But was thinking that if the OP cannot easily find an un-kerfed handle maybe a shim could be put in the kerf while fitting.
 
I did run across a new old stock Collins haft that was machined to except there ridges.

I just resort to more brute force and ignorance when I hang ridged eye axe heads. The head will simply swage the ridges into the haft.
un-kerfed hafts would for sure be an advantage.
 
Why is unkerfed an advatage for hanging an axe with a ridged eye? My logic is the opposite: that a wider kerf than usual might be a good thing, as the handle could flex in away from the ridges while being driven, then as it is wedged it would be forced onto the ridges, creating a tighter fit than if the ridges plow grooves through the handle. What am I missing?
 
chuxwan said:
Why is unkerfed an advatage for hanging an axe with a ridged eye? My logic is the opposite: that a wider kerf than usual might be a good thing, as the handle could flex in away from the ridges while being driven, then as it is wedged it would be forced onto the ridges, creating a tighter fit than if the ridges plow grooves through the handle. What am I missing?
Click to expand...

You don't want the saw kerf to unnecessarily pinch closed while trying to do the initial fitting. Easiest is to slip a washer or piece of sheet metal same thickness as the saw kerf in when doing this. You can then carve/file out the ridge marks on the wood before setting up for the 'hang'.
 
Don't worry about the ridges. They will make their own grooves when you are pre-fitting the haft. I'm guessing the head is a nice old Kelly True Temper.
 
rjdankert said:
I have no experience with ridged eyes. But was thinking that if the OP cannot easily find an un-kerfed handle maybe a shim could be put in the kerf while fitting.
Click to expand...

That's a good idea.

Having hung them both ways, it was much easier with the unkerfed haft. It's because of all the on & off during the fitting process. Compressing the kerf spring loads and binds the haft in the eye. Doesn't happen with an unkerfed haft.
 
As mentionned before, you could fill the kerf with something like a wood piece or multiple layers of plastic from a container of some sort to avoid said springing.
 
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