Cleaning up the grooves in a khuk's handle & WATCO finish.

Yvsa

Yvsa

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May 18, 1999
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I think I may have posted this long ago but I'm gonna post it again as if I did it's probably lost in the archives.

To clean up the grooves in a khuk's handle I use artificial sinew which is nothing more than nylon thread that is waxed and -Not- twisted or braided. This enables it to be pulled apart into multiple smaller pieces if desired.
I cut a piece the desired length and re-wax it with the sewing beeswax that can be bought at any good fabric store or sewing center.
Then I take it over to my Grizz and roll it in the grinding dust that's on its table, unless my Barbie has cleaned it up lately.;)
Then I 'roll' it by twisting it to get it started and then rolling it on my leg. Anchor the khuk in a vise or clamp it down and then place the grit embedded string in a groove and pull back and forth as you would a shoe shine cloth and rotate all around the groove.
This makes a nice smooth and polished finish in the grooves and removes any excess material of most any kind that may have been trapped.
If you don't have a grinder so that you can use the dust I would suggest getting some valve grinding compound at any auto parts store.
It's possible that simply pulling a waxed thread or string through some tripoli or other buffing compound may work just as well.
I think I may have posted this long ago but I'm gonna post it again as if I did it's probably lost in the archives.
I did this to my Foxy Folly today to finish getting it ready for the oil finish on the 400 grit sanded Saatisal handle.:D

Then I went to put some Tru-Oil on the Foxy Folly's handle and found that it had solidified in the bottle, didn't realize it was that
old.:(
Then I went to use my Formby's Danish Oil and found that it had done the same thing. It was alright three months ago.
I threw them both in the trash.
However someone had mentioned a WATCO's Finish a while back as a possible treatment for horn.
I knew I had another oil finish but didn't realize it was the WATCO brand finish and I happily discovered it to be all right so I'm using it on the FF's handle.
It has always worked well in the past. but I don't know how it would be for horn handles. It is a very thin solution that's not overly sticky like the Tru-Oil and the Formby's so it might penetrate well into horn as it -is- a penetrating oil.

Posting this in the 'Sticky' Tips, Tricks and such thread as well so it won't get lost again.:D
 
Yvsa';s tecdhnique is. I've done the Yvsa method using a double wrap of unwaxed dental floss...

Keith
 
A knifemaker at the bladesmith forum (on swordforum) recommended Watco Danish oil, and I posted the suggestion on this site. I just tried it on the horn handle of my 12" Sirupati. I hope that it works - I should know in a few weeks.

Prior to the application, I cleaned off a coat of wax that had been on it.

The knifemaker said that he let the stuff soak on for a few hours. I put on 2 coats of the stuff for 2 days in a row, and followed the Watco recommendation on the can.
 
Two Watco treatments were not enough, but three will do the trick. I had a couple of hairline cracks after two treatments, and so I applied a third. It has been 1 month since this 3rd application, and no more cracking has appeared on my two Sirupatis with horn handles - a 12" Villager by Bura, and a 15" by Amtrack.
Prior to the treatment (following directions on the container) - I made sure that I lightly sanded the surface of the horn with 2000 grit paper. The use of Watco as a sealer hasn't changed the appearance of the Amtrak handle very much, and had no effect on the Bura. I was getting shrinkage of the horn and hairline cracks before using the Watco, but no change since. I plan to use the stuff on any horn handled Khukur I acquire.
 
arty said:
Two Watco treatments were not enough, but three will do the trick. I had a couple of hairline cracks after two treatments, and so I applied a third. It has been 1 month since this 3rd application, and no more cracking has appeared on my two Sirupatis with horn handles - a 12" Villager by Bura, and a 15" by Amtrack.
Prior to the treatment (following directions on the container) - I made sure that I lightly sanded the surface of the horn with 2000 grit paper. The use of Watco as a sealer hasn't changed the appearance of the Amtrak handle very much, and had no effect on the Bura. I was getting shrinkage of the horn and hairline cracks before using the Watco, but no change since. I plan to use the stuff on any horn handled Khukur I acquire.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the perseverance and good report Arty. Please keep us posted on long term use if you will please.
I know it's of interest to me and I'm sure it will be helpful to others as well.
I think it would be a good idea to post a link to this thread in Dean's thread of...Tips, Tricks, & Useful Finds under "Treatment of horn handles." for future reference for noobs as well as forgetful old men like myself.;) :D
 
arty said:
Yvsa - How do you post a link? Can you do it?
Click to expand...
Arty just put your cursor on the address at the top of the page in the little box then left click your mouse. That should highlight the address. If it doesn't then hold the left button of your mouse down and swipe the address which should highlight it. After the address is highlighted hold the Ctrl button down and click the x or c button. The x button will seemingly erase the address, doesn't really, just stores it in your computer, and the c button will copy it so either will work.
Then go to where you want to paste the info..ie.. go to the sticky post and click on "reply" so you can post. When you get the window up tell everyone what you're posting about and then hold the Ctrl button down and click the v key. This will paste the link there.
It's easier than it sounds.:D Go to "quote" here like you are gonna post to this reply and you will see what I've done.

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/newreply.php?do=newreply&p=2493342

When you get comfortable with that then you can do it the fancy way like this...

Link Here.
It took me a little while to remember how to do this and I had to look at the vB code link at the bottom left of the page every once in a while to see how it is done.:rolleyes: ;)

If you have problems trying to do it let me know and I will post it for you, but I'm sure you can do it. Hell, I learned how!!!!:D
 
Yvsa - You can not left click the mouse on a Mac. It has only one button.
Where do I get Mac instructions?
The problem for me right now is that I am very short on time today.
HELP
 
Great tip....Watco's is good for just about anything...
 
Thanks for bringing this back up Dan. I had forgotten about it with all the problems.

Edit:
Arty I posted the link to this thread in the Tips, Tricks,etc thread that Dean started that's been stickied to the top of the page.:D
 
I picked up a can of Watco the other day....natural finish is what I assume would work best....looking more a preventing than stopping cracks at this point. Haven't tried it yet but hoping for some down time where I can get too it.
 
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