Clip point quench in Blade

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Protactical

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Aug 24, 2003
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There is a response in the current issue of of Blade (March 04), in the Q&A section, to the question of how to heat treat a blade with a clip point where the point will be sharpened. The questioner had a method, that Goddard pointed out a flaw in. Goddard then describes a possible right way. I read it twice, and while it seems it would harden the main edge and about 1" of the point, I don't see how the full clip point edge would be properly hardened. What am I missing?
 
Originally posted by Protactical
Goddard then describes a possible right way. I read it twice, and while it seems it would harden the main edge and about 1" of the point, I don't see how the full clip point edge would be properly hardened. What am I missing?
Click to expand...

what was the way he described it :confused:
 
rock the thge point forward so it goes into the oil, the depth of the clip. You gotta be quick :)
 
Originally posted by Sweany
rock the thge point forward so it goes into the oil, the depth of the clip. You gotta be quick :)
Click to expand...

interesting that's not the way I would do it
because of the thinking as you said..You gotta be quick
..OMHO
if you are to quick it won't quench properly ( the Clip)
and if you are to slow
you'll miss the main edge critical point
I'm thinking the clip would heat back up
while you are at the edge and possibly temper
it's self from the heat left in the center of the blade,
this heat running back into the clip over tempering it.?
Possible??:confused:
 
He recomends rocking it back and forth many times. One position is flat over a regulator block, and the other tang up with 1" of the edge submerged. In the diagram @ 1/6 of the clipped edge looks submerged.

The only method's I can think of are either non-differencial hardening, or clay hardening.

The questioner's thought was to quench the main edge in a shallow bath, then hold it there while heating the clipped edge with a torch, and so forth. Goddard dismissed this as leading to a soft point where the waterline intersected the clipped edge.

Presumably a clipped edge isn't all that different from a dagger in the end. So how do they harden those differencialy, without clay, or is there no way.
 
Goddard dismissed this as leading to a soft point where the waterline intersected the clipped edge,,

He's right at a point around the water line you will never
heat proprly to harden or draw back.

yes clay is one way

I full harden the blade then I know I have a fully hardened edge anywhere I want it,
then water tube the edges to keep them cool,
then draw the rest out with a acetylene and Oxygen torch
I make a special tube to cover both edges at the same time out of
copper tubing. these can be reused because they are soft and bendable.
 
>He's right at a point around the water line you will never
heat proprly to harden or draw back.

Agreed!

>then water tube the edges to keep them cool,

What do these tubes look like. Are they paired so that the edge fits into the seam between the tube, or is the tube slit so water actualy circulates over the edges? Or something different?


They have been making daggers for centuries, one asumes the water tube is a bit modern, there must and older method, like heating a block of steel, and letting the spine of the knife have contact, or holding the knife over an opening behind which is the forge or more hot steel?
 
yes the tubes are slit so water circulates over the edges
and for the top one it's silver soldered to the bottom one.
the slit can be clamped tight to the blade with pliers.

there are many different ways to do it I'm sure.
this way is fast and a sure thing. it's just what I use,,,
 
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