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The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is ready to order! See this thread for details: https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/bladeforums-2024-traditional-knife.2003187/
Price is$300$250 ea (shipped within CONUS). If you live outside the US, I will contact you after your order for extra shipping charges.
Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/ - Order as many as you like, we have plenty.
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- Thread starter 357survival
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That is one sweet engraved 16. Hopefully the engraving is still very visible after stripping.
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So far as I can tell, the engraving was only in the paint, and has come off completely, like it didn't even touch the metal. If you want a personalized Becker Knife, I would suggest getting it regular engraved, instead of laser engraved. Also, I had my name put on my Leatherman while I was there, and it's not really engraving on bare metal, it's a ceramic coating that gets baked on.
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Maybe they use a higher powered laser?
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When I was in college a few years back we had a laser cutter for cutting wood and paper board for building architectural models and I engraved one of my knives with it and it cut through the coating and into the steel much like the new BK&T logos stay there after stripping. Not sure how different a laser cutter/laser engraver is but I suspect they are basically the same. We had the ability to control the penetrating depth from a computer and adjust the power levels depending on material. I suspect most engravers may be adjustable but I could be wrong. Hope everything works out.
I ran the laser engraver for my High School (the one used for trophies and things like that) for almost 2 years. I used that thing for all sorts of stuff, and learned a fair amount about it. To me it just sounds like when spark engraved it he either went too fast, or didn't use enough power, because it didn't make it all the way through the coating. It shouldn't be a problem to fix, it just might take a few more practice runs to figure out what settings he needs to use.
The only thing that I was ever asked to engrave that I couldn't, was a chrome plated crankcase cover for a Harley. Either it was too reflective, or the laser we had wasn't powerful enough to make a mark on it.
If It were me I'd sacrifice one blade for testing. I'd take the scales off and engrave small things in different locations on the blade all with different settings, and then use whatever setting gave the best results
.
It looks good though.
The only thing that I was ever asked to engrave that I couldn't, was a chrome plated crankcase cover for a Harley. Either it was too reflective, or the laser we had wasn't powerful enough to make a mark on it.
If It were me I'd sacrifice one blade for testing. I'd take the scales off and engrave small things in different locations on the blade all with different settings, and then use whatever setting gave the best results
.It looks good though.
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I like it, it doesn't have strong fumes, but it does smell bad. Just put plenty on and let it sit for awhile.
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I have had pretty good luck with this stuff. You dont need anything to apply or spread it. I scraped the coating off with a scrap piece of wood and rinse with water. Takes off any coating from Becker/Kabar
TTW,
After messing with various paint finish strippers for at least 20 years that's the same stuff I prefer. It's may cost most per ounce than the same stuff in the cans but it seems to go just as far. Once the cans get less than one half full, the volatiles in the solvent seem to evaporate and it looses it's punch, especially in dry warm weather. Also the aerosol makes application much easier. No snotty gelatinous goop to slather around.
I like to degrease and then scuff the surface of the older slicker coatings a bit with some 220 sand paper before applying to allow the stripper to get even more "bite" and work faster.
After messing with various paint finish strippers for at least 20 years that's the same stuff I prefer. It's may cost most per ounce than the same stuff in the cans but it seems to go just as far. Once the cans get less than one half full, the volatiles in the solvent seem to evaporate and it looses it's punch, especially in dry warm weather. Also the aerosol makes application much easier. No snotty gelatinous goop to slather around.
I like to degrease and then scuff the surface of the older slicker coatings a bit with some 220 sand paper before applying to allow the stripper to get even more "bite" and work faster.
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