CNC Router Ideas

Daniel Fairly Knives

Daniel Fairly Knives

Full Time Knifemaker
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Jan 9, 2011
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If you had a CNC router what would you use it for?

Keep in mind that they do 3D but it is pretty tricky, I just use mine like a bandsaw /drill to cut stuff (not metal) out in 2D then hand finish it. It works best with wood, plastics, composites and very light work on brass/alumium.
 
I built my own 4x4 CNC router a few years ago, and it's definitely a game changer in the shop. I just recently set it up with an ISO20 tool holder. It wasn't cheap, and I still need to set up tool racks and program everything for auto tool changes, but even just being able to swap tool holders without grabbing wrenches every time has made a huge difference in productivity.

One thing I like to do that I haven't seen anybody else doing, is to use a carbide tipped, spring loaded drag bit to layout my knife patterns on my steel, before I cut them out on the bandsaw. While I have everything on the CNC table, I'll also spot drill all of my pin/hole locations, so that all of my hand cut blanks are very accurate/repeatable.

Other than that, I use it for anything from rough profiling handle scales, to even 3d contouring them so that they're about 99% done right off the machine. I've also used my router to make split molds for my kydex sheaths that I use on a vacuum press.
 
I want to get one so I can use it to slot guards/ferrules. I do a lot of hidden tang blades, so I am always slotting guards and stuff. Most of my guards are Micarta/G10 at this point and my Dremel mill works, but it's perfectly straight up and down and it's slow. I would also be able to blank out guards from a sheet and pre cut a slot in them so I could have several guard pieces ready to go as needed. I could also do up templates in soft woods and test out cut files/prototypes before getting blades water jet cut out. I could also engrave stuff on my strop handles and get a laser module as well so I can mask off the blade, laser etch the resist and electro etch the blade if the laser wasn't strong enough to do it. I use a cricut for my stencil, but it is a pain to do finer wording or letters if they aren't a stencil style that is connected. I would also be able to cut in even jimping on the spines, too. I want to make symmetrical dagger templates for some of the blades I do, so this would really help with that as well! I could also do things like taking handle scales, milling slots into them for spacers (keeping the bottom of the scales solid), or inlay areas (cut out the inlay portion from the scale, cut out the piece to fit into that). I am sure I can find a lot of uses for it!

I am eyeballing the Anolex 3030 EVO-Max. Wifi capability, Linear rails on all 3 axis (the squarish ones, not the tiny round ones), 800w spindle, and able to upgrade to laser modules and larger spindles. My 780watt generic Foredom has no problems cutting into hardened steel, so I am guessing the 800 watt spindle should be able to slot guards in mild steel or mokume/non ferrous metals if I wanted to.
 
Daniel Fairly Knives said:
I'm the tool changer. 🤣 Right now I'm at 2D and 1/8" endmills for just about everything. I can do 3D CAD but my router seems to have a hard time importing the program.
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🤣 I am the tool changer on my CNC router as well. I have an auto tool setter that works well but it is still a pain to change out tools. If I get to where I use it a lot, I will add a tool changer for sure. I bought mine to make scales on, but it isn't capable of holding the tolerance required to do intricate 3D milling without any clean up afterwards. So, I run scales in my mill and that works so much better. It isn't really a fair comparison since the mill is about 15,000+ pounds heavier than the router haha. As of now the only production plan I have for my router is to start roughing rifle stocks on it someday. I may start using it to cut Kydex blanks as well.

If you can live with post machining clean up, then a router is a great tool for sure.
 
Daniel Fairly Knives Daniel Fairly Knives If you aren't already aware, most CAM software's have an option to post a 3D program in arc moves instead of line segment moves. "True" CNC mills are smart enough (look ahead control) to turn the line segment moves into continuous splines and this creates a higher level of machining accuracy as compared to using arc moves but it makes the programs much longer. If you can post in arc moves it will drastically reduce the size of the program and may make it manageable on your machine. If that is the problem.
 
Contender Machine said:
Daniel Fairly Knives Daniel Fairly Knives If you aren't already aware, most CAM software's have an option to post a 3D program in arc moves instead of line segment moves. "True" CNC mills are smart enough (look ahead control) to turn the line segment moves into continuous splines and this creates a higher level of machining accuracy as compared to using arc moves but it makes the programs much longer. If you can post in arc moves it will drastically reduce the size of the program and may make it manageable on your machine. If that is the problem.
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Ahh! I bet that is it, thank you! I kind of knew that and forgot, I lost my router along with my shop so I'm rusty and on a new machine.
 
I have one but don’t leverage it nearly enough. I think if I was just running one model and the blanks were water jet it would be different.

I find the amount of time it takes to design the file, proof the part, and then set up and run the part is too much. In that time I could’ve make many many scales. However if I was making 10+ of the same model and water jetting the blanks I could see cutting the scales from sheets of micarta.
 
Contender Machine said:
🤣 I am the tool changer on my CNC router as well. I have an auto tool setter that works well but it is still a pain to change out tools. If I get to where I use it a lot, I will add a tool changer for sure. I bought mine to make scales on, but it isn't capable of holding the tolerance required to do intricate 3D milling without any clean up afterwards. So, I run scales in my mill and that works so much better. It isn't really a fair comparison since the mill is about 15,000+ pounds heavier than the router haha. As of now the only production plan I have for my router is to start roughing rifle stocks on it someday. I may start using it to cut Kydex blanks as well.

If you can live with post machining clean up, then a router is a great tool for sure.
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I agree on tolerances, my issue is it maybe skipping steps when ran at any decent speed. I haven't ran much on the new router (x-carve pro) but it did possibly skip steps when pushed to the recommended settings just like my junky 6040. I just cut some G10 utility knife frames out for about the third time now and just got them right, had to make room for cleanup and ream everything later too.

I do use it for kydex, that is my main use probably. I still have not figured out how to get around semi ugly cutting and melting the kydex on a really small level but it does ok with a few stages of cleanup on the scotchbrite wheels. I need to get something going better than the double sided tape I use, it lets go of the occasional piece and that is always exciting. I need to go to vac molding over a prop then fixturing on router with prop, I am working on it.

Rifle stocks, nice! I make guitars and they are up soon.
 
Not surprising that kydex gets gummy… it is designed to get pliable when heated after all.
I bet the only way to cut that reliably via cnc would be to use flood cooling and really sharp tools.
 
A.McPherson said:
Not surprising that kydex gets gummy… it is designed to get pliable when heated after all.
I bet the only way to cut that reliably via cnc would be to use flood cooling and really sharp tools.
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I agree, I might try an air blast one day but the results are good enough with minimal post process finishing.
 
If I may ask what speeds and feeds have you been using for Kydex? I don't have any experience yet machining it and it is definitely susceptible to heat build up but I would think it should cut like butter even at a lower surface footage which shouldn't build much heat.
 
Contender Machine said:
If I may ask what speeds and feeds have you been using for Kydex? I don't have any experience yet machining it and it is definitely susceptible to heat build up but I would think it should cut like butter even at a lower surface footage which shouldn't build much heat.
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It has been so long since I lost my first router that I forget, run it very slow for sure including the spindle. I just cut some at 40 ipm and 12k rpm IIRC and it was acceptable but not where I had it before. I'll post back here when I get better results, I'm about to cut some more here in a few days.
 
Daniel Fairly Knives said:
It has been so long since I lost my first router that I forget, run it very slow for sure including the spindle. I just cut some at 40 ipm and 12k rpm IIRC and it was acceptable but not where I had it before. I'll post back here when I get better results, I'm about to cut some more here in a few days.
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Ok I was just curious. 12K on an 1/8 inch diameter tool isn't that fast for sure. Might need a really heavy chip load to get it to act better.
 
I cut .080 Kydex pretty regularly in my router. I typically use a 1/8" 2-flute carbide endmill. 15000 RPM, and about .001 to .002 feed per tooth, whatever that works out to IPM wise.
I don't really have any issue with melting, though chatter can be a problem where the kydex isn't tight to the spoil board.
I've also had some luck with downcut bits, though it varies. I'm wondering if a 0 flute bit wouldn't be the ticket.

No coolant or air blast, just a shop vac and a dust boot.
 
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