Coated stones????

Monofletch

Monofletch

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I hope this is the correct forum for my question!

I was asked by a co-worker if I would sharpen his knife. I agreed and he gave me his knife. The knife was an un marked (brand) but had V3 on one side. Folder. The blade was black coated.
I use a Lansky with regular "stones" (no diamond). I started. After a few swipes with the course stone I noticed the stone seemed really dirty. I hit it with oil and wiped it clean-It was better, but not like normal. After some more it was really bad. I got his knife scary sharp, but it looks like I ruined my set of stones. I asked if he painted the knife and he said no. He said he paid almost $90 (used) from a knife shop in KY.

Any idea of what might be the problem? The pores seem to be packed with something...almost gu or paint from his knife. My first thought was my honing oil was thin (new bottle).


Any way to salvage my stones? :p
 
Just clean the stones with soap and water to start. Use a toothbrush if it's stubborn. Barkeeper's Friend is great if it's loaded with metal dust. I think it'll come right off and be as good as new again.

Brian.
 
Thanks Brian- I will try it. I have never had to "clean" my stones with other than honing oil. I have had them for 10 + yeears.

This looks more like paint than metal.
 
You're probably right, the oil was too thin. You can easily clean the stones by scrubbing nthem with Ban keepers friend. If you're not familiar with it, it's near the Comet and Ajax but it is NOT the same. Garanteed to work.
 
It certainly seems like the blade coating's dust, abraded by the stone, has mixed with the oil and clogged up the pores in the stone. It should be fine after you remove the coating.

I've never used Barkeeper's Friend on my stones, but it seems to have worked for both bgentry and smitty0331, so there must be something there. I do use Soft Scrub with a sponge, no brush scrubbing, to clean my ceramic stones and it works great.

What I've used for stones, and you might want to try, is soaking in Simple Green in a container just slightly bigger than the stone I need to clean, so that it's totally submerged, and possibly give the clogged surface a light brush scrub, if the clogging material is very stubborn. The longer you soak - at least overnight - the more gunk it will remove. If you leave it long enough, it will pull all residue out as well as any old oil. You will have to recondition your stone with clean oil after this process, and before you use it again.

Good luck.
 
I just used hot water and Dawn--my wife's toothbrush didn't cut it. I am headed to WM for Momma, so I will check out with Simple Green and Bar Keeper's Friend.
I have some SG here, but it's no were near enough.
The knife I sharpened didn't have a "paint" type coating like a Becker--more of an anodizing
 
Monofletch said:
I just used hot water and Dawn--my wife's toothbrush didn't cut it.
Click to expand...

You really cracked me up with that one. I suppose it was a joke, otherwise I hope your wife doesn't read BladeForums.

I hope either process works to remove the anodizing/coating residue from your stone. Let us know how it works, if you can.
 
Monofletch said:
This looks more like paint than metal.
Click to expand...

If paint, try some mineral spirits, paint thinner or stripper, or maybe even WD-40. The petroleum-based solvents in these might work better for loosening up the 'paint' (assuming it's oil-based). A steel or brass brush might speed things up, used with the solvent.
 
Monofletch said:
Barkeeper's had very little effect. Now I'll try the Simple Green.....
Click to expand...

It's too bad you've had to go to Plan B.

If you're going to use the Simple Green remember to let it soak, AT LEAST overnight, with the clogged side facing down, and preferrably totally submerged (if you can find an appropriate small container). If your stones are old and well used you should notice some debris seeping out of the stones as the cleaner penetrates the pores. You can check on the progress while it soaks. I hope that solves your problem.

I should point out that some people use Simple Green diluted with water (to their desired consistency) as lubricant on their stones, but I always use honing oil on mine, and only use Simple Green to clean them. Also, never use this method on water stones; I've no idea what could happen, but you could probably ruin the stones.

Good luck!
 
The Simple Green and a stiffer brush seemed ro work a little better. still not 100%. But they are way better than before.
Thank you for all the help!
 
Have you considered just lapping them? There's a variety ways to do it for little or no cost. Even oil stones can benefit from this. After 10 years.... little refresh might do 'em good anyway.

cbw
 
I'm glad you got some results with the Simple Green, but I would suggest you try leaving your stones soaking for a longer period. A week is not too long if you have very stubborn clogging, and you can probably dispense with the brushing. You can also try blasting the clogged stone with a very high pressure washer after soaking in Simple Green.

I've never lapped my stones, when I used natural or manufactured stones (I now use diamonds and ceramics), so I can't provide any comments on that approach. You should be aware of the difference in characteristics between water stones and silicone carbide or aluminum oxide stones before you start lapping. And you should read this other thread in the forum as well before lapping your stones to restore their cutting power:

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/888340-Arkansas-Stone-Flattening-TROUBLE!

Best of luck!
 
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