Coating Recommendations

Joined
May 3, 2009
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Hey guys. I'm new to the site and to these boards but I'm hoping to become a regular around here. Let me just get straight to it then.

I'm very interested in picking up a RAT knife - specifically, the Izula. I know that many of you RAT board members have one and have put it through the paces. Do you have any recommendations as to what color/coating I should pick? I know it comes in OD green, Desert Tan and Black. From the pictures I have seen, the Black version seems to have the thickest coating and perhaps the longest life span of the three versions.

What do you guys think?
 
Black coating is not any thicker. It's just that people that carry black blades only carry them to look cool and never use them since they're all tactical and stuff :D
 
I'm very interested in picking up a RAT knife - specifically, the Izula. I know that many of you RAT board members have one and have put it through the paces. Do you have any recommendations as to what color/coating I should pick? I know it comes in OD green, Desert Tan and Black. From the pictures I have seen, the Black version seems to have the thickest coating and perhaps the longest life span of the three versions.

if the black one's are thicker, than the pink ones must be sharper... go with pink.
 
So you rock the pink when go into the woods? :D

How have the coatings on your RAT knives stood up to heavy use?
 
They do as well, if not better, than most any other powder coat. They're going to wear but that just shows the sign of someone buying RAT for their designed intent instead of all these pristine photos that keep getting posted up around this joint. :D
 
They do as well, if not better, than most any other powder coat. They're going to wear but that just shows the sign of someone buying RAT for their designed intent instead of all these pristine photos that keep getting posted up around this joint. :D

Haha, I do like the knives that look beat up.

Another question: If I do see small signs of rust on the edge, what is the best remedy? Should I sharpen the knife to remove the rust or just apply oil?
 
As for me, I just don't worry about it since it will come off the next time I use it but you can apply some oil to the edge and wipe it down and that should keep any rust at bay. And as far as everyone that will tell you to use some edible type oil, fooey on them. Just use some oil and you'll be ok.
 
I wondered about the coatings as well. Well, just the texture. Green and black seem to be of the same constancy just different colors, but what about tan? It looks smoother than the rest.
 
Black coating is not any thicker. It's just that people that carry black blades only carry them to look cool and never use them since they're all tactical and stuff :D

:D All the "which color Izula to get" threads and all my convincing for them to get OD and not black, and all the black supporters tugging the other way. That sentence a lone would have ended all the fun quickly.
 
The coating on the Rats are pretty darn tuff. Like any coated blade, they will wear on you though. Batoning seems to be pretty tough on the coating. I also put convex edges on them that smooth at the coating right at the edge. I actually think that helps the slice a bit better.

As others have said, just think of the coating wear as character marks. As for rust. People on the forums seem to often freak out whenever they see a little spec. It never really damages the knife. Just scrub it off. Flix polish works excellent on little bits of rust spots and doesn't wear the coating too badly. Most of the time a green scrubby and comet will remove rust fuzz and failing that you might have to go at it with a little bit of 1000 grit wet/dry sandpaper. When I'm out for a week camping, I just don't even worry about it and then when I get back I go through my gear, clean it up and polish up the blades and oil.
 
As for me, I just don't worry about it since it will come off the next time I use it but you can apply some oil to the edge and wipe it down and that should keep any rust at bay. And as far as everyone that will tell you to use some edible type oil, fooey on them. Just use some oil and you'll be ok.

I actually like to use mineral oil. It's both edible, cheap and effective. I think I'll get some tuf-glide for my folders though. Just so that the pivot screws have something a little more specialized to work with. Another piece I don't have to worry about with an Izula. :D


:D All the "which color Izula to get" threads and all my convincing for them to get OD and not black, and all the black supporters tugging the other way. That sentence a lone would have ended all the fun quickly.

I actually am partial to OD green but was concerned about the thickness/durability of the coating. Now that you kind users have put that fear to rest, looks like I'll be picking one up. :thumbup:


The coating on the Rats are pretty darn tuff. Like any coated blade, they will wear on you though. Batoning seems to be pretty tough on the coating. I also put convex edges on them that smooth at the coating right at the edge. I actually think that helps the slice a bit better.

As others have said, just think of the coating wear as character marks. As for rust. People on the forums seem to often freak out whenever they see a little spec. It never really damages the knife. Just scrub it off. Flix polish works excellent on little bits of rust spots and doesn't wear the coating too badly. Most of the time a green scrubby and comet will remove rust fuzz and failing that you might have to go at it with a little bit of 1000 grit wet/dry sandpaper. When I'm out for a week camping, I just don't even worry about it and then when I get back I go through my gear, clean it up and polish up the blades and oil.

Where do you put convex edges exactly? I don't understand that part, sorry.

Do you know where I can pick up 1000 grit sandpaper? I don't think they carry that in the Home Depot. :o
 
:D another OD convert, :thumbup:

I'm am 100% sure Lowes carries sand paper and 95% sure walmart does, I haven't shopped at a home depot but if they have paint, wood, and pvc pipes then there is a good chance they have sand paper. I even remember seeing some at Big Lots.
 
:D another OD convert, :thumbup:

I'm am 100% sure Lowes carries sand paper and 95% sure walmart does, I haven't shopped at a home depot but if they have paint, wood, and pvc pipes then there is a good chance they have sand paper. I even remember seeing some at Big Lots.

I know they all carry sandpaper but 1000 grit is rare. The highest that Home Depot has is like 220, I think.
 
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Where do you put convex edges exactly? I don't understand that part, sorry.

Do you know where I can pick up 1000 grit sandpaper? I don't think they carry that in the Home Depot. :o

he convexes the cutting edge of the blade, instead of keeping the factory 20 degree bevel. they say it reduces drag, increases wear resistance, ect. i convexed my izula, and it does seem to cut even better... somehow.

auto parts stores usually have 1000 grit paper.
 
Where do you put convex edges exactly? I don't understand that part, sorry.

This picture shows the convex edge (top knife) compared to the V-grind edge (pink Izula).

DSC_0001-38.jpg


Done using the mousepad/sandpaper technique.

Check out the automotive section of a hardware store for 1000 and 2000 grit paper. It pays to buy the 3M stuff rather than the knockoffs.
 
if you want to keep your coating all pretty don't baton with your knife. Personally I think this adds character and was the second thing i did with my rc 4. Havent batoned with my izula, and dont plan on it--too small:)
 
convexing wears the coating because this style of edge works higher on the blade taking some of the coating above the regular production edge. But boy does it cut well:). Im convexing my edge slowly, a few more sharpens and itll be perfect
 
Does "convexing" mean sharpening at a higher angle?

Thanks for explaining where I could pick up 1000 grit sandpaper, btw. :thumbup:
 
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