coating removal from a knife

BITEME

Basic Member
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Dec 14, 2007
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Does anybody know if you can get either esee knife or rat knife company to sell you a knife without the blade coating,I know the purpose for it's use but honestly I have a few knives dating back a few decades w/out any coating and the blades look awesome and rust isn't such a huge issue if properly cared for am kind of wondering if it has to do with warranty issues ,anyway thanks guys-
 
They do not sell uncoated blades. However, 20 minutes and some paint stripper and you will have an uncoated blade. Check out the ESEE subforum for many, many threads and info on stripping the coating off.
 
yeah, it's simple and easy. Not much to it.

Apply paint stripper, wrap in a plastic bag. Wait half hour or so. Scrape it off. Most will fall off all by itself.
 
BITEME,

+1 to what BenchmadeBoy and Goodeyesniper have said. It works like a charm. Patina would be recommendable.

God bless,
Adam
 
Yep, can of paint stripper from Wal-Mart. Comes in a spray can or in a can-can. :D

img_0080-525x393.jpg
 
You have a couple old knives that are uncoated, why not have a couple new knives coated since that is the way they came from the maker? That way your grandchildren can make the decision if the coating was a good or bad idea. I just don't know your post coated plans for the blades. I have seen a few and the blade shape for ESEE is a classic and they look good stripped.
 
What if you want to strip off just about a 1/4" off the spine just to provide a clean, flat surface to scrape a ferro rod with? I was thinking about a wire wheel on a dremel.

What do you guys suggest?
 
What if you want to strip off just about a 1/4" off the spine just to provide a clean, flat surface to scrape a ferro rod with? I was thinking about a wire wheel on a dremel.

What do you guys suggest?

Depending on how clean you wanted it to look that would work.

Instead I might score the powdercoat with a razor blade to get nice square edges, then carefully scrape it off with the razor blade or even better one of the safety blade scrapers you use to clean paint of window glass, etc.
 
Expatriated,

The stuff I used to strip my Izy was a rather viscous goop. I'd say that with the goopy stuff you could apply much more selectively but I'm not sure how far reaching the corrosive nature of the stuff is. I'd expect to loose at least some of the blade coating that was in proximity to the stripper.

God bless.
Adam
 
Thanks guys for all the input sounds like it's not going to be that difficult.
 
You got this no prob man. Good luck, enjoy the project, and don't forget to post pics!

God bless,
Adam
 
Expatriated,

The stuff I used to strip my Izy was a rather viscous goop. I'd say that with the goopy stuff you could apply much more selectively but I'm not sure how far reaching the corrosive nature of the stuff is. I'd expect to loose at least some of the blade coating that was in proximity to the stripper.

God bless.
Adam

Just this afternoon had my izula nose down in a jar of said goop. Plan was that instead of taping, I'd rely on the level of the goop to make a flat discrete line.

Nope.
Somehow goop is far reaching. It gobbled up the paint quite a way beyond my planned level-seems to lift the paint and creep upwards-capillary action? In the end I topped up the jar and stripped the whole thing. Immensely satisfying to watch- it eats the coating. No scaping- just rinsed and gone!
Really pleased with the overall naked appearance. The geometry of the whole knife seems more apparent. It is currently soaking in a vinegar and pickle bath. ;)
 
Just this afternoon had my izula nose down in a jar of said goop. Plan was that instead of taping, I'd rely on the level of the goop to make a flat discrete line.

Nope.
Somehow goop is far reaching. It gobbled up the paint quite a way beyond my planned level-seems to lift the paint and creep upwards-capillary action? In the end I topped up the jar and stripped the whole thing. Immensely satisfying to watch- it eats the coating. No scaping- just rinsed and gone!
Really pleased with the overall naked appearance. The geometry of the whole knife seems more apparent. It is currently soaking in a vinegar and pickle bath. ;)

Make sure to post pics of the patina! Yeah that stripper is nasty stuff (aren't they all :D) and it will strip anything close enough to have a reaction with it.
 
I tried to strip and patina my potbelly last night. The jasco epoxy remover was great and i stripped it with no problem, but i put half a packet of mustard on it, spread it around and expected a patina, but it didnt do much after sitting for almost an hour.

The knife did seem to take a patina only right by the edge where the factory epoxy was worn off from chopping wood. Do I need to sand it a little bit? It does look really cool where the patina did form. Thanks for any help. - Tyler
 
Yeah that stripper is nasty stuff (aren't they all :D)

hahaha nice.

Well, shit guys, I've been inspired to strip and patina my Izula today - never done this with any knives other than Barkies :thumbup:

Good luck to the OP!
 
I tried to strip and patina my potbelly last night. The jasco epoxy remover was great and i stripped it with no problem, but i put half a packet of mustard on it, spread it around and expected a patina, but it didnt do much after sitting for almost an hour.

The knife did seem to take a patina only right by the edge where the factory epoxy was worn off from chopping wood. Do I need to sand it a little bit? It does look really cool where the patina did form. Thanks for any help. - Tyler

The way a patina behaves depends on the knife and steel. Some patina readily with very little help from us, some will hardly patina at all no matter what you try.

Sanding can help sometimes. Use a coarser grit, like 400 or so, and try it that way.

This is what my Junglas looked like after stripping the coating, sanding with 400 grit paper, and then using yellow mustard to force the patina. The yellow mustard was only on about 30 minutes. http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=792040

If the knife has a good "staineless" steel that does not corrode easily, you will have a much harder time forcing a patina.

JGON
 
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