Coating removal

VENI VIDI VICI

VENI VIDI VICI

Joined
Apr 10, 2013
Messages
1,745
So i bough a $20 blade with black coating, this is also the blade i have practiced sharpening with , and i screwed up the lines on the coating and i would like to take it all off to balance it out.
Basically, how can i remove low quality coating on a low budget without damaging the blade? Thanks
 
well, what do you have available? i heard paint thinner works, let it sit ofr i think 20 minutes and rub the coating off. i personally would use my scotch brite wheel, but idk what you or your dad have available in terms of power tools.
 
its paint stripper that most guys use. i dont think paint thinner will touch most coatings.
 
I could probably find some paint stripper somewhere, my mom has a boatload of random power tools.
On another note, would a belt sander be good for reprofiling, because i make wooden swords on acdaily bases, and ive been thinking about using my belt sander to put an edge on a crappy play dagger, its just rounded at the edge, but the blade is hand forged and a decent steel, and i want to see if any of my wood skills would stransfer, what i mean is that i when i put the grind lines on my wooden knives I use similar techniques as what ive seen, no where near ideal, but ive been able to put some good symmetry on my grinds, and i want too test it on real steel. What grit should i use for the sander because i only have the basic belt it came with
 
yes i use my belt sander to make my knives and shape handles.i start with a 36 or 50 grit for the first stock removel or flatening what hills and valleys are left by my angle grinder once it gets close to the bevel i want. sanding metal requires a dust mask (lots of particles you dont see that u inhale) , vision protection ive gotten metal in the eye. it doesnt absorb water or float like wood does and it scratches the cornea unlike some wood dust), hearing protection, (not just from the power tools, more the sound and pitches of metal being abraded) and more patience than wood since it takes a long time to abrade. the coarser grits have larger pieces of stone on them so they may scratch the blade bevel a little. for sharpening however i use a 400 grit belt to put the first inicial edge on then use my sharpeners. if you dont have one that fine, 220 which is very common i think would be good to go with. its an art that takes practice. im looking forward to seeing how my skills develop over this year.
 
If you don't want to use chemicals, steel wool will take the coating off without scratching the blade.
 
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