Cocobolo finish

hoputt01

hoputt01

Joined
Jan 28, 2006
Messages
55
Although I have been making knives for awhile now, I was recently given a small piece of cocobolo (never used it before) which I proceeded to use. I like the way it looks and works but I seem to be having trouble with the finish. I used True Oil on it but removed it after 4 days because it refused to dry, stayed gummy. Is it because of natural oils in it or what. This is the first time this happened to me. I have used True Oil on various woods for years, always with very good results. Any suggestions on what to use would be appreciated.
 
I've had the same problem with Cocobolo and with Ziricote. I would try some boiled Linseed oil in light coats.
 
I was told to use teak oil since it is a thinner oil and can penetrate deeper in this type of wood. I use it then buff on a wheel and then wipe any residue off with a cotton cloth. It looks nice, to me at least.
 
Cocobolo can be polished on a buffer, then waxed. It does not need a finish.
 
Ok, Thanks everyone for the replies. I think I have enough to start anyway. Bill, I have been told to just wax it like you said by several others so I think I'll try that first. Again, Thanks everyone for your help. I would post a picture of two but am unable to do so at the moment. I particularly want to post a picture and get comments on one I just finished. It is made from 440C with Cherrywood scales and is my first attempt at making a hollow ground blade.
 
On a slight side-note, I tried a crazy glue finish on some cocobolo hoping that it might keep it from darkening with time as it generally does. No luck.

Does anyone know why it darkens and/or if it can be prevented?

Dave
 
I only ever really use cocobolo on heavy users and choppers so Ive never tried for a really fine finish, but I usually use an epoxy finish. If you put a real thick coat on, then let it permeate the grain and set up a bit, then buff it off it works great. Just make sure the wood is clean and finished to whatever grit you want before you coat it, because once it sets it's rock hard.
 
Keeping it waxed should prevent darkening. Skin oils and dirt getting into the wood are the culprits.
 
Sunlight and air make it darken. I used a lot of it years ago and didn't put anything on it. Just sand and buff, always looked good.
 
I do not have a lot of experience with cocobolo, but I used Danish oil on it. You need to wipe out the excess and let it dry for a day or so, then repeat 2-5 more times. If you leave to much oil on the surface it will not dry even in a few days. I have a knife with cocobolo handle which I finished the way I described over a year ago - no problems with moisture or shrinking. I also used gun stock wax on that handle several times - works good and dries fast.

--
Sergiy
 
Well I tried a couple of things on a small scrap and finally settled on waxing it with and gunstock wax by Birchwood Casey and a good buffing. This seems to work well and looks pretty good. My thanks to all of you for your replies and help. Looking forward to posting pictures of my knife mentioned above as soon as I can get my dues paid up.
 
I'll point out, just in case somebody reading this doesn't know, Cocobolo is one of the worst offenders for developing an allergic reaction to the dust. I'd suggest you protect whatever natural immunity you have by avoiding exposure to the dust, because it eventually catches up to most folks who use it a lot. I wear sleeves, a particle respirator, and do most of the dirty stuff with it outside. It is a great wood, I'd hate to have to stop using it.
 
Bill and dennis are right just buff with wax thats all I do . sand to 600 then buff brown wax and its nice.
 
I don't oil cocobolo. It's never going to stick :) I do use briwax, and it works well. A friend uses caranuba on turnings he does and it's really sweet. he buffes with a low speed plain unsewn cloth wheel.
 
I read somewhere that Armorall would keep the U/V lite from darkening the cocobolo . Anyone tried this ?

Joe
 
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