Cocobolo=Need finish?

Larry in KY

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Feb 8, 1999
Messages
305
Guys,

I have always thought that Cocobolo needs no oil finish, perhaps just wax....what do you guys recommend? Thanks!
 
i went with no finish on my mom's kitchen knife. the cocobolo held up well, and doesn't seem to swell, but did loose it's color in the end grain. i didn't finish it becuase finishes tend to darken it eventually. maybe next time i'll try a superglue finish. cocobolo is pretty stable, but if you want to water proof it better than put a finish on it.
 
I haven't used Cocobolo, but i have used osage orange and ironwood, that are also oily woods. I like to use Thompson's water seal and finish with paste wax.

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Why am I good enough to fix my mistakes, but not good enough to keep from making them in the first place?
 
I like a little tung oil rubbed into the cocobolo. You can get that nice satin finish all the way up to a very high gloss. It also brings out hte figure in teh wood. If you want a really glossy finish, you can use the super glue technique.
 
I never put a finish on Cocobolo. Mainly because it is so oily and dense it will not absorb much. I have found that careful sanding and buffing will seal and polish the wood with its natural oils so that you end up with something between satin and gloss. I made my wife a kitchen knife about five years ago using Cocobolo for the handle. It has received regular use during the ensuing years and the handle looks as good as the day it was finished, except for the dents and dings, of course.
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Fox
 
Cocobolo is an oily wood and can take alot of abuse without a finish.
If the wood is going to be exposed to alot of mositure, I would finish it with two to three coats of "danish" oil/tung oil, let each coat dry completely. It will darken the wood so use the clearest stuff you can find, if you want to maintain the original color. For really heavy exposure to mositure use two coats of oil and three coats of a thinned (30-50%) polyurethane, sand lightly between coats.
 
I have never done it but I have heard that some folks have used a wood bleach to lighten cocobola and keep it from getting so dark with age. Anyone know anything about this?



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C Wilkins
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I don't care about no fightin' in Bosnia, I don't care about no trade with China! I just want to know when "they" are gonna do something about these God forsaken FIRE ANTS!!!
 
Oil will generally darken the cocobola, and the cocobola will naturally darken with age.

if you want it to hold its color, and give it a nice sheen, try Fixit from Texas Knifemakers supply. I posted on this about a week ago, but will re cap-

get handle to 400-800 grit, then start hand rubbing with 0000 steel wool until any grain is gone. Raise the grain with acetone (ive found cocobola not to raise badly) and hit with 0000 steel wool again. Repeat the acetone/steel wool until no grain raises back after the acetone.

Clean with a NEW (NOT OILY) rag and acetone. This will remove any steel wool and wood particles left behind.

Let dry well. Spray nice, even, thorough coat of Fixit on. Let dry at least 4 hours.

buff of with grey then green compound. It will take alot of buffing and compound, you will think youve ruined it, but keep at it and the wood will eventually start to glow. The fixit kinda "smears" off. i always keep a rag nearby to help the process along.

After all the fixit is gone, the handle will have a nice warm glow, but not too shiny. At this point take some regular johnson paste wax or reinasance wax or birchwood casey stock wax, give it a few rub downs and your done. The wax isnt really necassary, but ive found that it helps me search out any buffing compound that might be hiding.

hope this helps,

Matt.



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"Eternal vigilance is the price of liberty"
Thomas Jefferson

www.lameyknives.com
 
I've found that Super Glue is great for sealing the grain and preserving the color. You can control the amount of shine by adjusting your grit selection when sanding.

Take care,
Cecil

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Cecil Self
SELF Knives
Arrow-Dynamics Cutting Tools
www.arrow-dynamics.com
 
ive tried super glue, and i must say that after using the fixit spray, its the best way to go when you want to preserve color, seal, and have a very nice deep looking finish.



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"Eternal vigilance is the price of liberty"
Thomas Jefferson

www.lameyknives.com
 
C Wilkins - I have tried bleaching several different types of wood to no available. I used a good quality two-part wood bleach specifically for the purpose. I tried it on Cocobolo, Pink Ivory, Lignum Vitae, Bolivian Rosewood and several others. It will lighten the wood tones slightly in some cases but not all. Occasionally, it will even enhance the grain patterns. However, the bleach does not penetrate the aforementioned woods very deeply due to their high oil or resin content. I gave up on the process and have since just used that wood's natural properties inasmuch as possible and have been quite satisfied with the results.

Fox
 
Check out Behlen's Salad bowl finish. Its approved by the FDA ( food and drug adminiastration) for use around food (after its cured for 72 hours or something like that). I wouldn't try eating a sandwich and finishing a handle at the same time
rolleyes.gif

Anyhow I put 6 coats on a paring knife that I replaced the handle on for my mom. The handle is made out of unstabilized peices of cherry and poplar that I laminated together with tight bond II . Long story short my mom has chosen to ignore the advice I gave her of not putting it in the dishwasher, it goes in there almost everyday and is in great shape still. This is good stuff. It isn't as wear resistant as I would like, and isn't suitable for folders, but its perfect for things like kitchen knives.

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It'll feel better when it stops hurting.
 
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