I tried it a few times with the 12oz size, but the bottle was too big for my hand. I found an antique 6oz bottle on eBay. I drilled a hole in the bottom, but broke the glass trying to peen the tang. I decided coke bottle handles weren't worth the trouble.
Seriously, here are some tips:
1) It fits the style and shape of a larger knife like a bowie or other frontier/camp knife. Of course, it is a classic folder shape, too, but that is a different thing.
2) It is easiest to do with the handle mounted on the knife. It works quite well on a through tang. This allows taking it off and on as you do the final shaping and fine sanding.
3) Shape the handle profile pretty much as normal then add the "coke bottling" to the sides and bottom on the back half. It is easiest if you leave the handle with flat sides until you start the concave shaping. This makes adjusting the position and angle of the coke bottling possible.
4) Don't add the concave to the top. It should be the same as any Bowie/fighter handle. Don't make the junction of the coke bottling in the middle of the handle sides straight vertical. Angle it from the top forward to the bottom at around 20-30°.
5) Don't make the coke bottling too deep. It is a shallow curve. It is easy to deepen it slightly, but impossible to make it shallower.
6) Go slow and work all surfaces a little at a time. Sneak up on the final shape. Make sure it is perfectly symmetrical from side to side. Even the tiniest difference will show badly.
7) "FEEL" the fit as you go. You can change it a little if needed. The angle and position of tip #4 can be moved forward as needed as you file/sand, so start a tad back from where you think it will be. I like my ring and pinky fingers to fit the concave bottom and sides.
Tools and Materials:
Start with files when learning how to make the coke bottling.
1"wide half round medium cut files are great. 1/2" round file is also useful. I think coarse rasps are too aggressive for this type shaping.
Small contact wheels from 1" to 4" are good once you get the procedure down. Slower speed is probably better if you have VS.
A pro can do the whole thing on an 8 or 10" wheel in a minute ... but do it wrong and you will have to start over again on a new handle.
Use round soft backing blocks for sanding the curved surfaces. Be gentle and pay attention. It is easy to over-sand and deepen the concavity or move the center.
Sand to at least 400 grit and preferably 1000 grit. Again, go slow and do it evenly!
I am not a fan of surface finishes like built up oils and varnishes on these type handles. If that is your thing there is no problem, it's just not my style.
Some materials that work well are - micarta (especially the older canvas types); highly figured and hard woods like Desert Ironwood, African Blackwood, Cocobolo, figured walnut, maple burls; and the king of good looking handles - Curly maple; (plus many more hardwoods).
Stabilized wood is great here because it sands with a fine powder and polishes wonderfully.
Materials like California Buckeye Burl are wonderful once stabilized. Take stabilized woods to 2000 grit and buff.