Cold Blue Gun

I've done it a few times. Its easy if the gun is "in the white" or your touching up the finish. I've had issues with removing the finish and rebluing it as the chemicals from the rust and blue remover reacted with the new bluing. Also of all the stuff I've used the Outers bluing kit worked best.

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Actually, I'll be cold blueing a 10/22 later this afternoon. I'll be using Van's Instant Gun Blue. It works really well.
 
I cold blued some sights and the stuff works pretty well, but the finish looks a lot different than regular bluing. Mine came out a dark grey that worked great for the sights. It was the Birchwood Casey Cold Blue stuff. It's easy to use.
 
I've used Brownells Oxpho Blue Paste, it's worked very well.
I've tried many types of cold blue & found some work better on a particular gun than others.
 
Brules1 said:
I've used Brownells Oxpho Blue Paste, it's worked very well.
I've tried many types of cold blue & found some work better on a particular gun than others.
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+1 on Brownells Oxpho Blue paste. A few months back one of my gun-blued knives had a little rust. I used this paste to get the gun-blue on after I removed the rust. Wasn't that perfect but I really liked the uniform deep blue it gave. Did quite a lot of research to find which one was the best. It was between Brownells and Birchwood Casey and Vans. Glad I chose Brownells in the end.

The trick I've read is the way you finish the metal surface before you apply the gun-blue paste. Remember to polish it well and heat up the metal with a hairdryer before you put on the paste. That way the metal can absorb the paste better.
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Another +1 on the Brownells Oxpho paste.

I did a tubular magazine on a Browning BLR that had surface rust and spotting.
A careful clean and polish, and following the directions to the letter produced a beautiful deep blue finish. Only downside it that it is a slightly different shade to the factory finish, but it doesn't detract from the overall look of the rifle.
 
First, you need to determine how the barrels are joined. They should be done wtih lead solder, and if so cannot be hot blued; they would come apart in the tank.

Second, striking the barrels (getting them ready to finish) is a large job, that is usually botched by anyone who's not done it before. It is very difficult to keep from getting ripples in the finish.

You need to get the Brownells catalog and spend some time reading that before you start your project.
 
fivefold said:
Check this video out.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=31SEn4-5PCQ
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I watched all of his videos about bluing and the stock refinishing ones as well, very informative. It seems that no matter what brand of product you use the base essentials are: cleaned surfaces, polished metal, hot metal for application and stopping the process.

The only one I am a bit unsure on is the polishing. What is the best method for this? Do I need a bench grinder or is there a hand method that works well also?

Thanks for all the information!
 
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