Cold Steel AD10 Beval not straight

[Britishknifefan]

Can not seem to get the bevel straight on my cold steel AD10 I'm sharpening it on my precision adjust but when I sharpen it the bevel seems to just put at a wired direction at the heel of the blade any ideas what I could be doing wrong or is this normal, sharpening at 20° and clamping it down in the middle.

Image of the bevel in question

 

[Ruari]

If you clamped it near or at the ricasso and focused on the heel area, perhaps you could straighten it out?

 

[Britishknifefan]

I tried that, I even removed the thumb studs to get closer to the area in question and it just seemed to make it worse

 

[jux t]

At first glance, it appears as though you may have focused on the area in front of the heel too much.

 

[David Mary]

Agreed. The knife is still perfectly functional, so as a user, I can assure you it doesn't "need" "fixing". But if you want to straighten it out for aesthetic purposes, as a hobbyist, I completely understand. Here's how you can do it.

Lay the edge flat on a diamond plate, and grind it straight. Focus on the heel in particular, and grind it up a few thousandths of an inch until it forms a flowing line with the rest of the blade. Then freehand grind the flat portions of edge that resulted with a small flat diamond file. You're going to be working in a small area, so a medium diamond file at most. You'll have to bring the shoulders up in those spots first to closely match the rest of the edge geometry, and then work them down to an apex.

I don't use a clamp system myself, so take this part with a grain of salt, but once you have an apex from heel to wherever the flat spots from your perpendicular grinding ended, you should be able to clean the bevels up with your clamp system. Even passes from heel tip should unify the reground portion with the rest of the blade.

Good luck!

Spoiler

Though I mostly use my grinder, I used the freehand diamond file method to regrind an apex onto the notorious unsharpened edge portion on a couple of Cold Steel Recon 1 Tantos. It took a bit of time, but was worth it due to the control I had that allowed me to keep the edge straight. Afterwards, instead of a clamp system, I tidied up the edge bevel with a few passes on a 220 grit ceramic belt with my grinder, then gave it a 20° per side microbevel on the SharpMaker.