Cold Steel Bushmaster

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Sep 14, 2006
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I tried the search function but it wasn't working, so I don't know if anyone has already done a review of this knife. Sorry for the lack of pics, but I'm short on time so will try to be descriptive.

I've had this knife for several years, but haven't really done anything with it up until recently.

Here is what CS has to say about this knife:

"Model 95BUS, Bushman, Features a 7" SK-5 high carbon steel blade that has been heat treated and tempered to RC54. The Bushman has been expertly cold forged out of a single piece of 2.5mm thick SK-5 high carbon steel. Blade has been carefully ground to an extra thin edge, and then honed and buffed by hand until razor sharp, which makes re-sharpening easy. The broad, thin, curved blade is ideal for skinning. The hollow handle allows for survival supplies or handle extensions. Includes a leather sheath with a hard plastic liner for safety. Blade Length: 7", Overall Length: 12 1/4", Weight: 10.1 ounce"

Those figures are pretty close to my measurements. The knife can be purchased for between $18 and $25.

I've been using this knife around the property as a light chopper and slicer. We have a lot of new trees that I am afraid to use the weed eater around, so I use this knife as a grass knife to cut the grass and weeds away from the stem far enough to weed eat.

I have also used the knife to cut small trees, vines and large weeds away from a 200' length of hog fence so it could be rolled up and stored. The largest diameter of the vegetation cut is about 1".

I have also done some kitchen prep with the knife, such as cutting up potatos and slicing beef.

Observations:

This knife is not a heavy duty blade. I haven't tried any batoning with it ;) , it may serve to cut up small lengths of wood. I may try this in the future. The tip comes to a pretty fine point, and given the thinness of the blade, I doubt it would hold up to much prying without bending.

The handle, which is just bare metal, is quite slick. I solved this problem by coating the grip with tool dip. This solved the slickness problem. The whole knife is finished in a matte black finish that seems to hold up pretty well.

The knife is very blade light. Attempting to chop even very thin tree stems and vines was not a very satisfying circumstance. The handle of the knife is hollow, so to increase chopping ability, a longer haft could be socketed into the handle. This would greatly increase the chopping power of this knife.

Just to see how this would feel, I cut a piece of ceder limb, about 2" in diameter down to about 8" in length. I shaped the limb and inserted it into the handle. This completely changed the balance of the knife, and made it FEEL like it could be used to chop somewhat larger trees more effectively. I may install a longer handle on this knife in the future. The grip has a hole drilled in it about 1/2" from the end where a screw or pin could be put in to hold the handle, or the longer handle could be glued in.

The blade has about a 1/4" bevel the length of the blade, the edge is concave. The steel is pretty soft, but the cutting and chopping I did caused very little damage to the edge. Resharpening with a kitchen sharpener and a steel was quick and easy, and the blade was brought back to good sharpness.

Slicing/food prep was easy with this knife due to the shape of the blade (much like a general utility kitchen knife). Grass cutting, which doesn't require chopping, works very well.

The sheath is a pouch style leather job with a belt slit on one side. It protects the knife and covers the edge, but ain't good for much else. If you thread it onto your belt, it will either flop loosely at your side, or be pulled tightly and uncomfortably into your ribs, depending how you put it on the belt.

I solved this problem by threading a carabiner I bought from Home Depot through the belt slit. Then I ran my belt through the carabiner. This allows the knife to hang at your side, blade down. You can slide the carabiner further back out of your way, or up under your forearm for easy access. It's also easy and quick to remove, but allows both hands to reach the handle.

For the money, this knife is quite useful and utilitarian. If you are on a budget or just need an inexpensive, big knife to throw into your truck or ruck, it can work quite well. There are better knives on the market for twice the money.

Hope this helps.

Andy
 
Good review. I agree with your points about the Bushman. I've got one that I keep in the truck, just in case I need a large knife. I haven't tried to chop anything with it; I use my khukris for that.

For the price, its a good knife and a good value. Probably overlooked a bit, since people don't seem to be looking for a big cheap fixed blade unlike the regular threads about cheap good folders like Ka-Bar Doziers (great) Saks (great) Opinels, etc and cheap good smaller fixed blades like the Mora.
 
The only thing I don't like about the Bushman is the handle. Not that it's metal, but rather that it's round.
 
I tried the search function but it wasn't working, so I don't know if anyone has already done a review of this knife.

Several, but additional perspectives are always worthwhile.

I've been using this knife around the property as a light chopper and slicer. We have a lot of new trees that I am afraid to use the weed eater around, so I use this knife as a grass knife to cut the grass and weeds away from the stem far enough to weed eat.

I have also used the knife to cut small trees, vines and large weeds away from a 200' length of hog fence so it could be rolled up and stored. The largest diameter of the vegetation cut is about 1".

I have also done some kitchen prep with the knife, such as cutting up potatos and slicing beef.

How would you compare it to a small machete or large butcher/fish knife.

-Cliff
 
Several, but additional perspectives are always worthwhile.



How would you compare it to a small machete or large butcher/fish knife.

-Cliff

I would compare it unfavorably to a small machete, as even a small machete would be more bladeheavy and a better chopper. Now, if the longer haft could be attached to the Bushmaster, that could even things up a bit in that area, although I would still be a little leery of the sturdiness of the tip of the knife or possible breakage of the extended handle if a lot of force were used. Also, even with the extended handle, the Bushmaster would still only have 7" of cutting edge.

I would compare it favorably to a butcher knife, although the belly of the blade is deeper than what I have seen on most dedicated butcher knives. I've never used a fish knife, so can't comment on them.

Andy
 
I don't see mine replacing a small machete, such as my 12" Tramontina or 10" Barteaux cane knife. As I mentioned earlier, I find the round handle turns in the hand too easily when swinging/chopping. Plastic dip does help, but you still have to visually make sure the blade is oriented correctly or else the blade may hit slightly (or not so slightly) sideways.
 
I have one, and out of all my CS's it's the one I like the least. Not a fan of non-stainless and the round handle which tapers towards the blade seems dangerous. In fact the last bad cut I had came from the knife falling out the sheath and across my forefinger.
Good fun if you stick it on the end of a pole and use as a spear, but beside that there is always a better, safer knife available, which I tend to use. Another one stuck in the draw for me!!!
 
I don't see mine replacing a small machete, such as my 12" Tramontina or 10" Barteaux cane knife. As I mentioned earlier, I find the round handle turns in the hand too easily when swinging/chopping. Plastic dip does help, but you still have to visually make sure the blade is oriented correctly or else the blade may hit slightly (or not so slightly) sideways.

That's absolutely true. Whereas for regular cutting or slicing, one is looking at the blade constantly, when chopping you are looking at the impact point and can't keep track of the blade orientation.

Andy
 
I have one, and out of all my CS's it's the one I like the least. Not a fan of non-stainless and the round handle which tapers towards the blade seems dangerous. In fact the last bad cut I had came from the knife falling out the sheath and across my forefinger.
Good fun if you stick it on the end of a pole and use as a spear, but beside that there is always a better, safer knife available, which I tend to use. Another one stuck in the draw for me!!!

I haven't had mine fall from the sheath, but that is something I didn't mention; the loose fit of the blade in the sheath. I think with the application of a few more coats of dip, this will go away. Won't do much to change carbon steel to stainless, though! :)

Andy
 
I don't see mine replacing a small machete, such as my 12" Tramontina or 10" Barteaux cane knife.

How does it fare for precision wood cutting? Where would you see it as an outdoor knife if the price was not a consideration.

As I mentioned earlier, I find the round handle turns in the hand too easily when swinging/chopping. Plastic dip does help, but you still have to visually make sure the blade is oriented correctly or else the blade may hit slightly (or not so slightly) sideways.

There are a number of cord wraps which could be used to boht provide an aggressive texture plus index the handle strongly in hand.

-Cliff
 
How does it fare for precision wood cutting? Where would you see it as an outdoor knife if the price was not a consideration.

It's good there. It sharpens well, holds a good edge, batons well. Strangely enough, I like the discontinued Mini Bushman better for really presicion work. Otherwise, I tend to gravitiate to the Tramontina instead of the regular Bushman. And toward a Mora rather than the Mini Bushman. But that's just my preference, not to say they are bad knives at all.

Despite my misgivings about the handle, it does allow for some unique applications. I hacked a handle extension at one point, which made it a more powerful machete-like tool. I suppose with a longer handle, it would be quite a formidable weapon.

There are a number of cord wraps which could be used to boht provide an aggressive texture plus index the handle strongly in hand.

The only misgivings I have about this idea is that the handle is already girthy enough, IMO. I'd be hesitant to make it moreso. However it is a possibility. I'd actually thought about smashing the handle into a more oval shape, but don't know if I'll ever actually give that idea a try.
 
Just a short follow-on to my earlier observations about this knife:

I'm tearing apart my back deck, made of very seasoned redwood. It is dry, cracked, weathered wood with lots of knots.

I did some splitting yesterday with my BR Golok, which performed flawlessly (I'm splitting the 2x6 boards because my little cordless circular won't make it through a full 6" board without binding).

The Bushmaster did fine as well, but the blade shape (and this no doubt holds true for all knives of similar shape) caused the blade to back out of the wood with every blow. IOW, because the blade is formed as a slicer (the spine is straight, the edge is curved from handle to point), as the blade is hammered through the wood, it slowly but surely backs out of the board leaving less and less blade upon which to hammer. After a foot or two of splitting, you are left pounding on the point of the blade, at its thinnest and least strong point.

This was not observed with the Golok, which has a blade which is shaped like a giant butter knife with the same depth from handle to tip.

If you are looking for a blade with which to split wood, I would derive from this that a longer, straighter and more spine/edge parallel design is of more utility than other designs for this purpose.

Andy
 
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