Cold steel great axe

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KIRKHILLS86

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May 3, 2025
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Hi guys can anyone tell me the best way to attach the head to the haft my cold steel great axe hasn’t come with any instructions apparently they don’t come with them but I’ve read different things from others who have purchased this beast lol mine came with 2 screws that do fit nicely into each other but do I have to drill 2 separate holes in the haft in order for it to work I’ll post a picture of my axe and screws … any help would be greatly appreciated
 
Make sure you have imrhe head the right way, slide it up the haft...pound the haft with a mallet from the big end to seat the hesd, then drill a pilot hole with a bit the same outer diameter of the collar/female side screw it on. Enjoy the axe!
 
I understand why cold steel thinks that a metal cross pin is needed, the eye is too shallow on that axe in my opinion. But the pin will not actually help. Climate changes will still make the head come loose and then you will not be able to hit the top of the haft with a mallet to make it tight again. If you did not use the pin, and you mounted the haft with a standard wood wedge, you could at least tighten the haft up by driving the wedge in a little deeper. That is if you did not bottom out the wedge when you first hung the axe. I never saw a cross pin used on a axe head until the 1960's and 70's when I was competing in what they now call TIMBER SPORTS events. The only reason they started pining the heads was for liability for the audience safety. Since the late 1950's, when I started working in the woods, I have never seen a professional woods worker pin his axe head. No need if you hung your axe properly. This is a CYA thing with cold steel.
 
The axe is a more or less historical model other than the set screw, but Cold Steel has always done that with their tomahawks and the like for some reason. As you say it's foolish, and likely done for liability reasons. The eye is smaller than I'd like for that bit size as well, but you can get away with surprisingly shallow eyes on slip-fit axes.
 
Originally CS hawks didn’t have the set screw. Not sure why they decided to start adding it. The one on the right is their original Plainsman hawk. They discontinued it and kept the Rifleman.
 

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Bigfattyt said:
Make sure you have imrhe head the right way, slide it up the haft...pound the haft with a mallet from the big end to seat the hesd, then drill a pilot hole with a bit the same outer diameter of the collar/female side screw it on. Enjoy the axe!
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Thank you kindly mate ive getting a response from a guy who custom makes axes I think he’s going to do it for me i appreciate your help
 
Old Axeman said:
I understand why cold steel thinks that a metal cross pin is needed, the eye is too shallow on that axe in my opinion. But the pin will not actually help. Climate changes will still make the head come loose and then you will not be able to hit the top of the haft with a mallet to make it tight again. If you did not use the pin, and you mounted the haft with a standard wood wedge, you could at least tighten the haft up by driving the wedge in a little deeper. That is if you did not bottom out the wedge when you first hung the axe. I never saw a cross pin used on a axe head until the 1960's and 70's when I was competing in what they now call TIMBER SPORTS events. The only reason they started pining the heads was for liability for the audience safety. Since the late 1950's, when I started working in the woods, I have never seen a professional woods worker pin his axe head. No need if you hung your axe properly. This is a CYA thing with cold steel.
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Cheers mate ive still not done it it’s still wrapped in its original packaging lol you must know a lot about them i can tell by your message I’ll tell the guys who’s going to fit it together what you’ve told me as I don’t really want to come loose I’ll not be using it for anything it’s just going to be in my collection on the wall lol
 
I always approach anything axe related from a user standpoint. So, that is the reason for my comments. If your intent is a wall hanger it probable does not matter. I always want all of my axes, etc. to be sharp and ready to pickup and use right on the spot.
 
The cross-pin is probably there to prevent the axe-head from sliding back down the handle and hitting your hands when the axe is used , the cross-pin will also prevent the axe-head from twisting on the handle under heavy use.
This is a large axe with a small shallow eye , and I can see this happening if the taper on the handle does not precisely match the eye taper , I presume that the eye is of round , rather than oval section , and is tapered , as I have not seen this axe.
 
Astrogator said:
The cross-pin is probably there to prevent the axe-head from sliding back down the handle and hitting your hands when the axe is used , the cross-pin will also prevent the axe-head from twisting on the handle under heavy use.
This is a large axe with a small shallow eye , and I can see this happening if the taper on the handle does not precisely match the eye taper , I presume that the eye is of round , rather than oval section , and is tapered , as I have not seen this axe.
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It's an oval eye and slip fit axes, even with imperfect fitting jobs, generally TIGHTEN with use rather than loosen. If it's loosening there's a shelf above the eye that needs removing. You can actually be VERY sloppy with slip-fit eyes and still have a secure handle--it's more important to get the TAPER right rather than the bearing surface (though obviously you need some!)
 
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I figured the set screw was both for liability and competition reasons, I know some axe based sports require a pin through the head and handle to prevent head loss during use. While not likely I'm sure it was an insurance based decision.
 
I wasn't implying that model was a competition axe, I was saying they added the set screws across the whole line for both reasons. Some of their models are used in throwing competitions that may require a mechanical fastener. I thought that was clear. The model in question isn't meant to be used for much of anything other than to look at.
 
Hi guys I’ve finally had it put together today took my friend 2 hours lol hes a carpenter and he said the screws are terrible but hes secured it with them and it feels great to me I done a few water bottle tests and it sliced them in half with no effort at all and it seems really tight and snug but now it’s on my wall and probably will stay there as a wall hanger very pleased with it if I’m honest

I have one more question to ask yous as im stuck on what trail master to purchase I wanted the 3v model but I’ve heard nothing at all thats good everyone seems to have the same issue with the grind lines etc it’s made me think twice now im thinking maybe it’s best if I purchase the San mai version instead just for aesthetic reasons seems it’s well made and looks more pleasing then the 3v version or would yous recommend i just take a plunge and get the Fallkniven modern Bowie it’s a hell of price to pay tho ?
 
KIRKHILLS86 said:
I have one more question to ask yous as im stuck on what trail master to purchase I wanted the 3v model but I’ve heard nothing at all thats good everyone seems to have the same issue with the grind lines etc it’s made me think twice now im thinking maybe it’s best if I purchase the San mai version instead just for aesthetic reasons seems it’s well made and looks more pleasing then the 3v version or would yous recommend i just take a plunge and get the Fallkniven modern Bowie it’s a hell of price to pay tho ?
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Best asked over here in the Cold Steel forum: https://www.bladeforums.com/forums/cold-steel-knives.895/
 
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