Cold Steel Krupp 4116 Stainless?

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pogo

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Anyone know what this steel is equal to in our standard steels? EG. 420, 440, VG10..ETC. Thanks!
 
Thanks guys! Looks like it is pretty good stainless & is close to 425m & Sandvik steel.
 
Pertaining to the 4116 Krupp Stainless...I would like to know from anyone that has such knife. Does a magnet stick to it? I worked for ThyssenKrupp Elevator Manufacturing and we were using a low grade "stainless" metal that actually stuck to a magnet. As everyone knows, true stainless will not stick to a magnet. Anyone?
 
I have one and yes a magnet stick to it but it also sticks to all my stainless knives.
 
I have used the steel, and it performs similarly to 420HC. Acceptable edge retention, easy to sharpen and super easy to polish. Rust resistant. I don't mind it, but it won't go out of my way for it.
 
lugnuts said:
Pertaining to the 4116 Krupp Stainless...I would like to know from anyone that has such knife. Does a magnet stick to it? I worked for ThyssenKrupp Elevator Manufacturing and we were using a low grade "stainless" metal that actually stuck to a magnet. As everyone knows, true stainless will not stick to a magnet. Anyone?
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Most SS is magnetic.
The magnet test only works one way: If the steel is non magnetic, it is SS.
But the opposite is not true.
If the steel is magnetic, it could be SS or non stainless.

Even in the same grade of steel, e.g. 316, some bolts will be magnetic, & some not.
 
CS's 4116 is pretty good. Some opyimal hardening would make it really nice, but what do you want for 15 dollar knives (or less). Its a good stainless for rough use work knives and I've gone through 2 Kudu. It is magnetic.

Regarding the magnetism issue, there are 4 basic grades of stainless steel. All rely on chromium for stain resistance. Austenitic stainless is non-magnetic in it's softest condition. These are 3xx stainless and are very common in piping and such. Ferritic stainless is magnetic. These are some of the 4xx stainless steels. Martensitic stainless is what is normally used for knives. It is hardenable by heating, quenching and tempering. It is magnetic. Some of the 4xx series stainless steels are martensitic. The fourth type are the precipitation hardening stainless steels. These are not very common outside of industrial uses, and can have very high strength, though generally less than the martensitic ones. Precipitation hardening steels are either magnetic or nonmagnetic, depending on the composition and processing.
 
Interesting.
I've used the cold steel canadian belt knife (krupp) as a kitchen knife for about 4 yrs. now, it's done very well even when placing it in the dishwasher (not too good for the handle I don't think).
Just tested some of mine (scrapyard, esee, greco, spyderco h1, cs srk, etc.) and the magnet sticks firmly, as expected.
The magnet I used was from an old hard drive, one of those neodymium jobs and it is powerful.
It even sticks to my stainless kitchen sink and hardware, albeit with much less force.
Pure stainless would be a poor choice for a knife.
 
williscondiff said:
Pure stainless would be a poor choice for a knife.
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No.... You seem to think stainless steel is an element and it gets added to other elements to make a good knife steel. This is not true. Stainless steel is the category name for the final product knife steel when you take an iron base blended with other elements such as chromium, carbon, vanadium etc, that has at least 12 percent chromium in the mix. Therefore VG-10 is "pure stainless", s30v is "pure stainless", etc. and both of those are great steels for knives. Not trying to be a jerk or anything, just trying to clear it up for you:)
 
To my knowledge, only some oddly conceived dive knives are made from 300 series stainless. Nearly all others are martensitic. The hardness required for edge holding just isn't there for most other kinds. I suspect that even H1 is at least a mixture of austenitic and martensitic, as it is magnetic and has a respectable hardness.
 
The 300 series steels can work harden. I have read of some kitchen knives that worked well. A custom experiment.
Although it can't be heat treated, it can be hard.
 
Krissig12 said:
Doesn't h-1 lack iron though? I'm probably mistaken, but isn't that the reason it can't rust?
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According to Spyderco's chart, H1 is 65-70% iron. It doesn't rust because it is a very good stainless. It also has some (0.1%) nitrogen, which helps resist staining.

Regarding the 300 series steels, oddly they can be heat treated, but it has the opposite effect. Heating them to high temperature and quenching them softens them. That how cold rolling is undone, if the need ever comes up. In the annealed condition, ie as soft as possible, the 300 series steels are often softer than 1018 carbon steel. It's a weird thing to think of for a knife nut, but very few metals behave like cutlery steel in terms of how to harden them. It's just that steel is SO much more common.
 
I have a Pocket Bushman that has good corrosion resistance. I keep it in the garage all the time in humid central Florida, never clean it, and I don't see any rust on it. I don't cut much with it, but did break down some cardboard not too long ago. I did OK, but needs a touch up for sure.
 
I have a Kudu and Tanto Lite in 4116. It's steel, it cuts stuff, it doesn't rust easily. What more can you expect from it?

I read somewhere that it's similar to the steel used in Victorinox knives. Shiny.
 
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