Cold Steel Leatherneck.

ron_m80

Tempered Member
Platinum Member
Joined
Mar 1, 2009
Messages
8,154
Don't knock it until you try it.

I purchased one, pretty much just so I could try my hand at making a stacked leather handle. But I decided to try this knife out as well.

The knife is well constructed, and the heat treat is nice. I prefer my ESEE for everyday tasks and edge retention, but this knife holds it's own for the amount I paid for it. I tried ordering it direct from cold steel, but for the second or third time they screwed up the manual data entry which canceled the transaction. So I reordered at a cheaper price from one of the BladeForum supporting dealer websites nearly $30 cheaper than the CS order, and that transaction went smoothly and arrived quickly.

I only have crappy disassembled photos, taking pictures and reviewing this knife was an after thought.

I pried the last part of the tip after sinking it into the stump the pictures were taken on, to see if it was brittle and on the unacceptable end of knife quality. It wasn't and the tip shows no breakage nor bending after quite a few tries. The edge was chopped into the top of the piece of wood you see pictured, and then it was popped out with a twisting motion parallel to the spine, to see if it would make one of those deep chips, it did nothing. I also smacked the blade down flat a few times to see if it would shatter, it did not. I do not believe in destructive testing, so that wasn't the kind of muscle used here, just enough to see if the knife was worth the price, and it performs about where the purchased price should be expected to.

The only "flaw" if there was one, is that under the guard there was no coating and the 1080 series steel is clearly starting to rust there out of the box. I am sure it would have a healthy service life despite that, but it is a flaw none the less.

choil.jpg

disassembled.jpg

tanglh.jpg
 
Last edited:
Thanks for the review.

Please post some completed pics when finished.
 
I dont get it , did you get the knife with no stacked leather handle ? or did you take it off in order to put your own leather on ?


Tostig
 
Not hard. The pin in the pommel is a 4mm pin. I couldn't counter drill it and hit it out with a drift pin. The irregular ground end on the pin broke the bit doing that. There were no serious adhesives at play in the pin to pommel fit.

If doing it again, I would drill it out from the exposed pin side, and try to easy out the pin. Neither pommel nor pin are hardened steel.
 
No adhesive between the handle and tang?
Does the handle seem fairly solid?
I'd like to see more pics of the various parts if you get a chance.
Thanks!
 
No adhesive between the handle and tang?
Does the handle seem fairly solid?
I'd like to see more pics of the various parts if you get a chance.
Thanks!

The factory handle is fair, I personally do not like it, but it is of better quality than their machete handles. The over molded handle is a bear to get off the tang.

There is no adhesive preventing the removal of the pin.
 
I misunderstood about the pin,but you answered what I was curious about.
Thanks.
 
Don't knock it until you try it.

I purchased one, pretty much just so I could try my hand at making a stacked leather handle. But I decided to try this knife out as well.

The knife is well constructed, and the heat treat is nice. I prefer my ESEE for everyday tasks and edge retention, but this knife holds it's own for the amount I paid for it. I tried ordering it direct from cold steel, but for the second or third time they screwed up the manual data entry which canceled the transaction. So I reordered at a cheaper price from one of the BladeForum supporting dealer websites nearly $30 cheaper than the CS order, and that transaction went smoothly and arrived quickly.

I only have crappy disassembled photos, taking pictures and reviewing this knife was an after thought.

I pried the last part of the tip after sinking it into the stump the pictures were taken on, to see if it was brittle and on the unacceptable end of knife quality. It wasn't and the tip shows no breakage nor bending after quite a few tries. The edge was chopped into the top of the piece of wood you see pictured, and then it was popped out with a twisting motion parallel to the spine, to see if it would make one of those deep chips, it did nothing. I also smacked the blade down flat a few times to see if it would shatter, it did not. I do not believe in destructive testing, so that wasn't the kind of muscle used here, just enough to see if the knife was worth the price, and it performs about where the purchased price should be expected to.

The only "flaw" if there was one, is that under the guard there was no coating and the 1080 series steel is clearly starting to rust there out of the box. I am sure it would have a healthy service life despite that, but it is a flaw none the less.

choil.jpg

disassembled.jpg

tanglh.jpg

Thx a lot for this review. I've been contemplating this one (I have way too many FB's as it is) and it's nice to hear (especially from an ESEE fan) that the Leatherneck is good to go. I'm happy to see the tang, thx for that. I am also interested in your opinion on the sheath. Last question: what would you do about the lack of coating under the guard and tang?
 
I am also interested in your opinion on the sheath.

It's factory plastic, I regard it about the same as I did the factory ESEE sheaths. I never used them and replace them before carrying.

what would you do about the lack of coating under the guard and tang?

I would probably clean it up and paint it. Though since I am changing it our for a leather handle, it will more than likely get adequate coverage from the adhesive that will be behind the leather.
 
It seems like a reasonably good deal - full flat ground carbon steel blade, in a proven shape and size.
One thing I never liked about Kabars is the saber grind - I prefer FFG for cutting and general work.
 
Back
Top