Cold steel recon 1 chisel grind ?

[sea9921]

hello i picked up the recon 1 spear point plain edge few weeks ago and the grind on the blade seems almost like a chisel grind one side is ground steeper than the other making the tip off centered.
it seems like new version of recon 1 with only CS engraving on pocket clip, is it supposed to be like this ? Or is it just simple mistake during the production?

 

[bikerector]

Sounds like a QC issue.

Is it the primary grind or the edge bevel being off? The edge being assymetric is more common than the primary grind, but neither is ideal and both happen. Normally, the machines do a pretty decent job with the primary, from what I've seen on production knives.

 

[Barman1]

First thing: Where did you buy it?

 

[jbmonkey]

can ya post pics of it for us. use a 3rd party host. thanks.

 

[Dragon_Man]

Welcome to Blade Forums. To post pictures, we need them to help you, follow this link. https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/how-do-i-post-pictures-from-a.1394713/

 

[sea9921]

can ya post pics of it for us. use a 3rd party host. thanks.

Welcome to Blade Forums. To post pictures, we need them to help you, follow this link. https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/how-do-i-post-pictures-from-a.1394713/

can ya post pics of it for us. use a 3rd party host. thanks.

Cold steel recon 1

https://imgur.com/a/HTbvZYI

This is the link of photo

 

[sea9921]

Sounds like a QC issue.

Is it the primary grind or the edge bevel being off? The edge being assymetric is more common than the primary grind, but neither is ideal and both happen. Normally, the machines do a pretty decent job with the primary, from what I've seen on production knives.

https://imgur.com/a/HTbvZYI

 

[sea9921]

Sounds like a QC issue.

Is it the primary grind or the edge bevel being off? The edge being assymetric is more common than the primary grind, but neither is ideal and both happen. Normally, the machines do a pretty decent job with the primary, from what I've seen on production knives.

This is the picture

 

[Blue Sky]

Did I read that correctly, there were no engravings or markings on the knife except for the clip?

 

[bikerector]

This is the picture

The best I can tell from the picture, that's a bad edge grind/bevel. The primary grind is what generally determines the type (I don't mean to seem like I'm talking down to you, I'm not sure your knowledge of blade geometry).

Something like that could be from misaligned in a sharpening jig during manufacture. For instance, if you wanted a 45 deg final bevel, normally you would think 22.5 on both sides, but here it would be like 35 deg and 10 deg. One side is nearly a zero grind, which is what kind of gives it the appearance of a chisel grind.

That is correctable, but since it's new, I would make Cold Steel do it, or send it back to the place of purchase and request a new one. That's 2nd quality stuff at best, in my opinion.

I will add, in general, I've had very good edges on my new Cold Steel knives. I know they get some bad ones, but I've had good luck over many purchases of new cold steel products, from fixed to folder. Not always 100% symmetrical swedges and things, but pretty darn close if it is off a little.

So, I guess depending on where you're located and how easy it would be to return, I would try to return it for a different one as a 1st choice. Next would be a warranty repair, but the wait time is often not worth it, IMO, but if it's a gift or something, maybe there's some sentimental value already (I had that situation with a Case knife that was gifted to me for Father's Day a several years ago). Last choice would be to do it yourself. I would do it myself if I got a good price on it or something, or it still functioned fine and I knew it was going to be corrected over the next sharpening or 2. I take the last option for some fixed blades that come with terrible edges, like many OKC fixed blades that are thick and just not that great right out of the package.

 

[sea9921]

Did I read that correctly, there were no engravings or markings on the knife except for the clip?

There is there is . It's legit cold steel maybe my bad for bad description i apologize man

 

[sea9921]

Thank you so much for the info.
Currently i am in a place the returning or warranty wouldn't be so easy, but Do you think if i sharpen the shallower side more with angle guided sharpening system it can be centered again?

The best I can tell from the picture, that's a bad edge grind/bevel. The primary grind is what generally determines the type (I don't mean to seem like I'm talking down to you, I'm not sure your knowledge of blade geometry).

Something like that could be from misaligned in a sharpening jig during manufacture. For instance, if you wanted a 45 deg final bevel, normally you would think 22.5 on both sides, but here it would be like 35 deg and 10 deg. One side is nearly a zero grind, which is what kind of gives it the appearance of a chisel grind.

That is correctable, but since it's new, I would make Cold Steel do it, or send it back to the place of purchase and request a new one. That's 2nd quality stuff at best, in my opinion.

I will add, in general, I've had very good edges on my new Cold Steel knives. I know they get some bad ones, but I've had good luck over many purchases of new cold steel products, from fixed to folder. Not always 100% symmetrical swedges and things, but pretty darn close if it is off a little.

So, I guess depending on where you're located and how easy it would be to return, I would try to return it for a different one as a 1st choice. Next would be a warranty repair, but the wait time is often not worth it, IMO, but if it's a gift or something, maybe there's some sentimental value already (I had that situation with a Case knife that was gifted to me for Father's Day a several years ago). Last choice would be to do it yourself. I would do it myself if I got a good price on it or something, or it still functioned fine and I knew it was going to be corrected over the next sharpening or 2. I take the last option for some fixed blades that come with terrible edges, like many OKC fixed blades that are thick and just not that great right out of the package.

 

[bikerector]

Thank you so much for the info.
Currently i am in a place the returning or warranty wouldn't be so easy, but Do you think if i sharpen the shallower side more with angle guided sharpening system it can be centered again?

You will need to sharpen both sides. Use the coarsest stone you have and work it until a bur forms. The main thing will be to get the right angle, since both sides are probably wrong. One side you will grind away at the should for a while before it finally meets the edge and the other is going to steepen the angle some, so starts grind the edge 1st to meet the shoulder.

What I call the shoulder is where the edge bevel starts from the primary grind, where the angle changes creating a should.

Being S35Vn steel, this could take you a bit of work since it's an abrasion resistant steel. Just know that it will take some time and take your time. Don't progress off the coarse stones until you have the bevel angles you want and you know they meet at the edge. A bur won't always form, so don't get too hung up on that, but it is an easy indicator to show that the sides have met at the apex. As much steel as you're removing, there should be a bur. Bur removal will be important for this task too.

In summary, use a really coarse stone suitable for S35vn steel. Take you time because it will take some time. Consistent angle until the bevels meet, often indicated by a bur. Remove the bur as best as you can. Only move to finer stones once you are sure you've established good edge angles.

 

[sea9921]

You will need to sharpen both sides. Use the coarsest stone you have and work it until a bur forms. The main thing will be to get the right angle, since both sides are probably wrong. One side you will grind away at the should for a while before it finally meets the edge and the other is going to steepen the angle some, so starts grind the edge 1st to meet the shoulder.

What I call the shoulder is where the edge bevel starts from the primary grind, where the angle changes creating a should.

Being S35Vn steel, this could take you a bit of work since it's an abrasion resistant steel. Just know that it will take some time and take your time. Don't progress off the coarse stones until you have the bevel angles you want and you know they meet at the edge. A bur won't always form, so don't get too hung up on that, but it is an easy indicator to show that the sides have met at the apex. As much steel as you're removing, there should be a bur. Bur removal will be important for this task too.

In summary, use a really coarse stone suitable for S35vn steel. Take you time because it will take some time. Consistent angle until the bevels meet, often indicated by a bur. Remove the bur as best as you can. Only move to finer stones once you are sure you've established good edge angles.

You are a hero thank you. Thank you. Thank you. God bless you and your family thank you

 

[jux t]

That’s good advice on how to correct bevels. That said, it would still take quite a while even with diamond stones if you have them unless you both have a good belt sander and are practiced at putting edges on that way. Otherwise, I’d exchange it if possible.

I mainly sharpen freehand or use a guided diamond sharpener, and have changed many bevels including Cold Steel’s S35VN, and can tell you it would take me maybe 3 hours on the guided sharpener, and more on the stone. Would have taken me significantly longer with poorer results when I was not as practiced.

 

[jbmonkey]

ya got good advice on how to fix it. I'd just get it exchanged/replaced as biker mentioned in his second post.

 

[DocJD]

I'd return to seller , if possible .

Otherwise : If it cuts stuff OK , I'd just use it until dull; and gradually correct, in the course of repeated sharpening , over time .

All my serrated Cold Steel actually have chisel grinds , and some PE Emersons and others are chisel grinds and seem to work fine .

 

[sea9921]

That’s good advice on how to correct bevels. That said, it would still take quite a while even with diamond stones if you have them unless you both have a good belt sander and are practiced at putting edges on that way. Otherwise, I’d exchange it if possible.

I mainly sharpen freehand or use a guided diamond sharpener, and have changed many bevels including Cold Steel’s S35VN, and can tell you it would take me maybe 3 hours on the guided sharpener, and more on the stone. Would have taken me significantly longer with poorer results when I was not as practiced.

Thank you for the advice . i will 100% have it done on my off days i have no option to just fix it , also i think it might be a good chance for me to make experience in re-profiling too. Thank you

 

[sea9921]

I'd return to seller , if possible .

Otherwise : If it cuts stuff OK , I'd just use it until dull; and gradually correct, in the course of repeated sharpening , over time .

All my serrated Cold Steel actually have chisel grinds , and some PE Emersons and others are chisel grinds and seem to work fine .

You are right . I probably should have done it but I'm far from where i got it so i will try to fix it and use it . Actually It cuts amazingly , believe it or not it's hair shaving sharp tho. Thank you for your advice . Everyone in bladeforums who just gave me advice really gave me huge relief about the concern. I genuinely appreciate for the help. Thank you.

 

[sea9921]

ya got good advice on how to fix it. I'd just get it exchanged/replaced as biker mentioned in his second post.

Thank you for your advice too. But i think it would be a crime to ignore bike's advice and do so, i will try to fix myself as i pay respect and love for everyone helped me in the post . Thank you so much .