Cold Steel serration practicality

Hashishiin

Hashishiin

Joined
Dec 29, 2021
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When I first was getting into knives, I was gifted a half-serrated Leatherman Sidekick (Thank you GatorMedic GatorMedic , this was my first real multi tool and still my favorite, I prefer it and carry it over both Waves I have) and sharpened it on my Sharpmaker. I quickly realized it was no problem to hone a serrated edge. Leatherman, Spyderco... Love to use my P4LW and Dodo.

This made me unafraid of using them. However, Cold Steel serrations are another thing entirely. These, for anyone who doesn't know, are VERY narrow! At least the small ones in between the "normal" serrations.

Granted, my only CS serrated knife is a Black Talon II, but seeing these serrations is the only reason I have not considered a serrated Cold Steel for doing work. I know they cut well, but for how long? Does any layperson have experience sharpening these? I would do it if I had an ultra-teeny rod, but unfortunately, mine are just too big.

I could maybe cut a toothpick to size, and wrap leather and compound around it. Has anyone done this, or have any experience to report with somewhat long term use of these knives?

I'm moreso seeking out experiences rather than asking for direct technique instructions (though you're welcome to tell me your method), and if this needs to be in Maintenance, please feel free to move it.
 
lansky dogbones have been made to sharpen all kinds of serrated edges. easy to use and inexpensive. using diamond oval rods works well also. the metal lansky dogbone works better and lasts longer than the ceramic dogbone.
 
Yes, Lansky for decades was/is the recommended sharpener for the CS serrations. It has a special narrow groove pattern. I don't even think Cold Steel's new sharpeners have it.
The rap on the CS pattern serrations were that they are great in use, but once they go dull they're a bear to fix. Some folks wind up grinding off the teeth once they go dull.
 
The Zieg said:
Yeah, don't like em.
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Seconded.

The only serrations I've ever found to be well designed and clever were on those old Rob Bailey knives, they were more like "interrupted" edges you could easily sharpen on a flat stone. I'm sure they are great for cutting rope and twine but I really can't imagine all that many uses where I wouldn't prefer a straight edge.
 
SwissHeritageCo said:
Seconded.

The only serrations I've ever found to be well designed and clever were on those old Rob Bailey knives, they were more like "interrupted" edges you could easily sharpen on a flat stone. I'm sure they are great for cutting rope and twine but I really can't imagine all that many uses where I wouldn't prefer a straight edge.
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Clarification: It's not that I don't like them.in principle, just that the things I used to cut that might actually need serrations knocked the tiny teeth right off my large 50/50 tanto Voyager. Rope (both hemp and artificial), plaited leather, plant stalks wrecked them.

SAK saw would have been better! 😆
 
I'm sorry y'all don't like them. my cs knives are all old school, stopped buying them when the quality was compromised. have been using the same method of sharpening for decades . i've had enough experience using serrated knives to achieve the same results as straight edge. to each their own
 
The tiny teeth get knocked off easily. Found that out cutting heavy cardboard with a vaquero. Chipped the damn things right off. Pissed me off so bad I ground it all flat. Don’t know where it ended up but it was alright with no serrations.
 
sorry to hear that. I've used them to cut what was known as gaylord carboard boxes at the scrap yard that would hold 4k of materials without straps. i;ve used them to cut through and repair 1 inch diameter dc welding leads. have refurbished serrated blades using the lansky dogbones and diamond hones, the type used by farriers. it has always been a no brainer technique in my opinion, which i know doesn't mean crap. i love serrated edges and always have. the only thing that has worked better for large diameter marine line 2 inches or larger has been boye dendritic carbon.
 
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IMO Coldsteel serrations are the same cheap laser cut rubbish you see on dollar store steak knives. If you are keen you can regrind the reverse/flat bevel, then try and remove the burr with a buffer or dressed stones. This design is not meant to be sharpened by anyone but the manufacturer. There are many well designed serrated edges offered by production companies, that are harder to sharpen than a plain edge, but can be sharpened effectively with hand tools.
I am not a fan of the Coldsteel design. Ask any Custom maker about making/sharpening these, or other reverse round top style serrations, and Im sure most will tell you it's not worth the trouble.
 
how old are your cs knives? ever since they changed the handle configuration on the vaquero and explorer knives the quality has been crap. Honestly if you can't figure out how sharpen serrated you're missing out. been using these knives for decades. if basic care is taken then it's all good. Once they changed the configuration of the knife handles they have been lacking. i have many older cs knives and machetes and have no problems with steels or function. but these newer steels are in my opinion are crap. most of the stuff in my possession is in gin1 or gin 10 , vg10 or better. i know that's not much of an accolade, but it's a good step better then what's out there now in the cs line. i will not purchase any current cs knives, regardless of blade steel due to a lack of integrity on product descriptions.
 
Worst serrations in the business.

elasmonut said:
IMO Coldsteel serrations are the same cheap laser cut rubbish you see on dollar store steak knives. If you are keen you can regrind the reverse/flat bevel, then try and remove the burr with a buffer or dressed stones. This design is not meant to be sharpened by anyone but the manufacturer. There are many well designed serrated edges offered by production companies, that are harder to sharpen than a plain edge, but can be sharpened effectively with hand tools.
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You already said pretty much exactly what I was about to say myself - that they're essentially what you get on cheap kitchen/steak knives that cut (or tear) until they're too dull or damaged, and then you're out of luck because you can't sharpen them again. No big deal on the 4 per $8.99 pack of steak knives, but they have no place on a pocket knife that's supposed to be resharpened by the owner, and is of otherwise good quality.
 
I only have one serrated cold steel, a tiger claw that I use around the yard when mowing as it's nice for smaller pruning jobs as I walk around the landscaping and woodline.

I have not had any breakages for anything I've cut, and I know I've used it jb the garage as well, where it rests, for hoses, cardboard, small cordage, and other minor tasks.

For sharpening, I used one of the tapered diamond rods and I think I honed it with a small ceramic rod after. Mine is from lansky but there are manh tapered rods out there. I may have just sharpened the bigger serrations and the honed the backside of all of them.

The blade is CTS-XHP, so a newer-ish one (maybe 5 or 6 years old now?).

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I bought the CS that I refer to above in 1995. I lost it in about 2000 (which is a funny story all its own).

Now my CS machetes and tomahawks will stand up to anything! And I LOVE my Carbon V SRK! 😉
 
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I love my serrated Spydercos and haven't touched a cold steel serrated knife now for 10+ years.

My co worker had a serrated 3" hold out, was awful at cutting seed bags. It would snag on the fibers in the bag instead of slicing through. He ended up sharpening the serration off when he snapped the tip off. Never was super impressed with that knife, I was still knife ignorant and carrying a Kershaw leak. He had a different knife every day and that hold out got demoted to a lend out.
 
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