Cold Steel Ti-Lite IV: Which variant for EDC?

U

Uncle Buckmaster

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Oct 21, 2021
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For the past few years I've actually carried a Ti-Lite VI, (Zytel) and as huge as it was, I loved it because it could be easily opened with just a flick of the wrist once it had been broken in. However, it was heavy, impractical for more general tasks, and I needed something lighter.
As of Christmas I've been carrying a Buck 110 Slim Pro, which I really like, but it just isn't doing it for me like the Ti-Lite did, and now I'm thinking that I should just buy a Ti-Lite IV.

However, I'm not sure if I should just buy a plain AUS-8A/Zytel model since that's what my Ti-Lite VI was, or spring for a more expensive S35VN/Aluminum model. I've head that the S35VN/Aluminum models don't flick open as easily as AUS-8A/Zytel models do for some reason, which is a concern because I carry it on the left side, so the thumb stud is virtually useless, and I need to be able to just open it one-handed with momentum/enertia.

Thoughts?
 
Here's my experience,

When I first received my Ti-Lite 4 (satin blade/zytel handle) I had a lot of difficulty wrist-flicking it open. The reasons were- the light weight of the blade, and the rather deep detent divot with very distinct/crisp edges. To my surprise it just wasn't a good knife for wrist-flicking.

I was a bit disappointed, but I went to work on it- I drilled the divot all the way through the blade, filled the hole with some aluminum rod, and then using a rounded punch I made a new divot in the aluminum rod. The new divot I created was deep enough to hold the blade closed, but shallow enough to allow easy wrist-flicking. I carry it on my left side so I can grab it with either hand forward-grip with right hand, reverse-grip left hand, and flick it open with either, it has no thumb stud.

Of course not everyone would be interested in performing such a modification.

Later, when I bought my first Ti-Lite 6 (satin/zytel), I assumed I would have to perform the same modification. But again to my surprise the knife easy flicked open right out of the box, even with a snug pivot (better lube also helps). It turned out the detent divot on the T6 wasn't as severe as it was on the T4, and of course the larger, heavier blade helped as well.

So my thinking is, in it's original condition the Ti-Lite 4 might not be the best choice out of the box for a "wrist-flicker" knife. But again, this has been my experience. There's always the possibility that my T4 was a fluke. It's the only one I've ever handled (I've handled several T6's, I currently own 6, thank you Lynn Thompson and Phil Bogusewski ;)).

My advice would be, if you want to try a T4, buy from a vendor with a good return/refund policy. That way if you discover what I've described, you can return it.

As for the T6's, from my handling of three different models (satin/zytel, bead-blasted/aluminum, black-coated/G10), I found the satin/zytel to be the easiest to wrist-flick. I attribute this to the smooth satin blade, whereas the bead-blasted and black-coated surfaces seemed to produce more friction in the pivot, and as a result the blade didn't swing out as easily. It has occurred to me that the pivot areas of those two models could be polished, I've done it on other knives to produce a smoother action, but I've been very happy with the satin/zytel T6 (and I like the much lower price).

But yet again, this was my experience, and it's not my intent to make blanket statements covering all Ti-Lites.


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Thank you very much for your insight on the subject. I knew that the Ti-Lite VI was going to be easier to wrist flick due to the sheer mass of the blade, but was hoping that the the Ti-Lite IV could still pull it off sans modifications after a break-in period.
Still, I'll probably give it a go regardless, because I just plain like the Ti-Lite and wouldn't mind owning a 4" model even if I can't work it into my EDC knife. The zytel models are cheap anyhow, so it's not like it would set me back terribly to purchase one.

In the meantime, if anyone else has any further experience or insight to share, I'd appreciate it.
 
I don't see how you could do it without modification. The knife was designed for the stud use and a strong detent for safety. I tried the Zytel but went with the Aluminum or Titanium Models and own several IV and VI"s. Just personal preference for that particular knife. For flicking I would think the Zytel might be better, I never tried one vs the other though. I do see what you mean on the VI flicking OK. I have long fingers so the stud works fine for me. Interested to see what you come up with, I can see the flicking being handy too.
 
With the Ti-Lite VI, I can literally just flick the blade open without ever touching the stud by simply holding it upside down with the spine facing the floor then flicking my wrist or forearm in a downward motion. Gravity/enertia alone is sufficient overcome the detent and deploy the blade that way.

The Ti-Lite IV is significantly lighter though, so I already knew that it couldn't be quite so easy as that. Still, we'll see what I can do. Maybe I can find an alternative method once I have one in my hands.
 
The 6 is easy to inertial flick, as said. I’ve found that the DLC coated versions of the 4 are a bit harder to thumb flick out than the uncoated versions. I have a thumb flip technique that deploys them all rapidly, but there is greater resistance to the dlc coated ti-lites. The 4 is not a very easy one to inertial flick, compared to their folders of similar blade lengths.

Also, the thumb stud is reversible, to address your thumb stud concern.
 
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I just ordered a plain Ti-Lite IV with an uncoated AUS-8A blade and Zytel scales online, so once I've received it I can break it in and see what I can do with it.

Good to know that the thumb stud is reversible too. I had assumed that it would prent the blade from closing in the reversed position because at a glance it looks like there wouldn't be sufficient clearance between the stud and the lock bar to fully close the blade. (At least judging by the appearance of my Ti-Lite VI.)

So yeah, I'll probably reverse the thumb stud immediately as soon as it arrives.
 
Uncle Buckmaster said:
I just ordered a plain Ti-Lite IV with an uncoated AUS-8A blade and Zytel scales online, so once I've received it I can break it in and see what I can do with it.

Good to know that the thumb stud is reversible too. I had assumed that it would prent the blade from closing in the reversed position because at a glance it looks like there wouldn't be sufficient clearance between the stud and the lock bar to fully close the blade. (At least judging by the appearance of my Ti-Lite VI.)

So yeah, I'll probably reverse the thumb stud immediately as soon as it arrives.
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Sorry brother, I’m going to have to put my foot in my mouth. I forgot the T-Lites do not have reversible thumb studs that fit in the recess of the opposite side of the handle. My apologies.
 
Many people use what I call a "pseudo-wave" opening with the Ti-Lites.

There are two versions of this that I am aware of- one is to drag the outer quillion on the corner of ones pocket when pulling it out, catching the quillion and causing the blade to open. Of course this would be rough on ones pocket.

The other is to hit the quillion on ones pant leg (after pulling the knife from ones pocket or sheath) opening the blade just enough to clear the detent from the detent pivot, then wrist-flicking the blade the rest of the way open. This is the method I used before I modified mine. Again, this would be rough on ones pant material, but unlike using the previously described method where the quillion is repeatedly hitting the same spot, by doing it this way you can hit the quillion on any spot you want.
 
I carried a 4" model with Ti handles for a few years, but the blade was too thick and wedge-like, landing it on a shelf. I picked up one of the 4" Kris models last year, and it opens quite easily left handed by thumbing the quillon. The blade is thinner and slices far better than the stock Ti-Lite blades, too.
 
My more recent S35VN 4 incher flicks open easily via the thumb stud, Very light detent.

My older zytel and titanium ones are much harder to deploy with the thumb stud, I would usually wave these open when I carried them back in the day.
 
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