Collins 5lb single bit, couple restoration and hanging questions (lots of photos)

[1215]

I can be long winded so I'll provide the Cliff's Notes first: This is sentimental and has been in the family so regardless of whether or not it is real or a fake, it will be rehung and used. Question is: Is it worth it to fix, restore and then rehang or just rehang the thing and use it?

I had posted about this axe a few weeks ago trying to get more information. At this point as I said above, it will be rehung and used regardless, but would be nice to have some more info about it rather than wondering what the heck this axe really is.

All that I can say is that its GIANT. I hadn't swung an axe in years so I had nothing to compare it to but now having purchased and come into a bunch of hatchets, and two and three pound axes and heads, this thing is huge. It is also a rather thin profile, is it a big felling axe? I am pretty sure it is a standard Collins (I think non-legitimus at this point) five pound single bit axe. Can anyone tell me if Collins ever stamped the weight of their heads on the bottom/underside of the poll just above the shoulder? There is a #5 ("5") stamped there. All I can find online is photos of the #4 and #5 stamped on the side of the cheek next to the "Collins" name/logo to identify the head weight. Is this different because of the age of the head?

There is a crack at the top rear of the eye. It goes down the eye about 1cm. Should I be worried about rehanging without first fixing that crack?

Finally, the eye is huge. Like stupid big. I have photos below measuring and comparing the size of the head and eye vs. a 3# Plumb and a 3# no-name boys axe. I had ordered up a 36" Grade-AA HH for this thing but then have not rehung it because I honestly think that the eye of the haft will be too small. Do I need to call HH and ask for a special handle with a larger eye? Also with regards to the handle, I really like the profile of the breaking/failing handle on the axe currently. Do I just use calipers and measure down from the head or up from the knob and take length and width dimensions and try to match them as closely as I can?

Here are some photos of the axe head in question. Thanks for looking/reading/responding. Please excuse the duct tape. Someone else did that, not me and its gone now.

You can see how much bigger the head of this axe is than the others. Clearly it will be bigger than a hatchet head but the difference in size between the hatchet head and the Plumb 3# head is almost the same in size difference as the Plumb 3# head compared to this Collins 5# head.

Here is that number "5" stamp. It seems to make sense however it does not match any other photos I can find of a Collins 5# single bit axe. Did they ever stamp weights/sizes there?

Some Measurements:

And this is what I was talking about with the size of the eye on this Collins axe.
This is a stock HH wedge and stock HH 36" haft up against a three pound plumb axe eye:

And then this is the same stock HH wedge and stock/untouched 36" HH haft, up against the Collins 5# eye:
Wedge (below):

Leading edge of haft eye (below):

Rear edge of haft eye (below):

Eye Measurements:

When the existing haft gets loose and slides down a bit you can easily fit the top of the HH haft into the eye of the Collins head. What do I do about this? Do I just call HH and they can get me a haft with a larger eye?
Thanks again for looking/reading/replying!

 

[Steve Tall]

...When the existing haft gets loose and slides down a bit you can easily fit the top of the HH haft into the eye of the Collins head. What do I do about this? ...

Below is a photo (from an old thread) for reference. It's a good example of a good hafting job.

...

Look at how much space the wedge takes up (including the portion in the front of the eye that the handle itself doesn't reach). Imagine this handle without the wedge installed, when the kerf is narrow and the two halves are almost touching. There's a significant amount of space that the handle doesn't fill in the eye, until it's wedged. I suggest that you put the 5# head on the new handle, and compare it to this photo. I'm guessing it would be a similar fit (before it's wedged).

 

[Square_peg]

I would have that big v-groove filled by welding before I hung that axe.

The crown with arm stamp is part of the Legitimus logo.

Use a big wedge and go for it.

 

[1215]

How --or where do I get a bigger wedge? The haft I have lined up to go into this head is a HH #1636 Grade AA 36" Single Bit handle.

Should I call them and ask to buy something bigger (longer and fatter)?

Thanks!

 

[Square_peg]

How --or where do I get a bigger wedge?

Do you have a buddy who's a carpenter?

 

[Hacked]

Go find a 5 - 7" diameter section of sessioned wood. Firewood dead branch. Anything hard and not rotting and has nice straight grain. Use a saw to cut out a section. Then use an axe or hatchet to split off a new wedge. A belt sander or flat rasp will clean it up and you have a new custom wedge in the exact shape you need/want.

 

[1215]

Didn't realize it was OK to make your own wedges out of random wood. I do know a carpenter. What should I ask him for? Poplar preferably or will "anything hard" do? If I say "anything hard" he'll probably give me oak. That OK?

 

[Hacked]

I think oak would be just fine, I've used Osage and Pear as well as whatever it is that they make the factory wedges from. Why wouldn't it be okay? All wedges are made out of wood. I've seen others use all kinds of wood. The biggest thing to worry about is the grain orientation. It needs to be parallel to the eye and preferably perpendicular to the kerf. Hopefully that makes sense.

 

[Square_peg]

What should I ask him for?

Any hard wood. Poplar is fine. You want the grain running the short way across the wedge.

 

[Agent_H]

I was at the local grocery store a few weeks back and noticed their display of cooking planks. Picked them up for $2.99 each if I remember right.

They have been on the workbench but escaped my attention until now. Might be something you can use to make a larger wedge – at least which is what I have in mind for them.

Cherry and some kind of oak are the two I grabbed. There was cedar and another type I can’t remember. 5”x8” or so. Minimal tools needed to part them into several wedges.

If you zoom on the edge picture, I think that is what Square_peg and others are saying about the grain – given your handle grain orientation is more or less parallel to the head.
The glove is size large for scale.

 

[Square_peg]

If you zoom on the edge picture, I think that is what Square_peg and others are saying about the grain – given your handle grain orientation is more or less parallel to the head.
The glove is size large for scale.

Thank you. Yes, that's what I was saying.