- Joined
- Mar 26, 2004
- Messages
- 41
So I picked up a great old Collins Legitimus Pickhead Axe from a guy over in Spokane, WA, a few hours from me. He got it from his father-in-law who was a fireman in the Puget Sound area of Washington in the '40s, he states.
http://i1200.photobucket.com/albums...0-8C63-26D90AE504C6-1305-0000016F07C21E9E.jpg
I want to refurbish it into a work axe, while preserving its mark and character. (I'm a fireman)
As you can see in the link, the toe of the bit has been filed down approx 1/2", relative to the heel (both lengths measured from the front of the eye). It's still got at least 1 1/2" of temper, so I can file it down to match no problem, which brings me to question 1: what is the proper geometry of the bit - can I trace a mark from another axe at work, simply laid back 1/2" to account for the missing material?
Question 2: where can I get the best quality haft? (Since my life, among others, will depend on it) Is there a vendor who will understand and take the time to pick out their best quality?
3: Once it's rehafted, should I take material from the pick/poll to balance the material removed from the bit? I would prefer a sharper pick anyhow.
4: Also, with respect to dating the axe, I was going to contact Larry MacPhail - he seems to be an authority on axe history, and is somewhat nearby. Any other resources?
Thanks for any information you can provide!
Andrew
http://i1200.photobucket.com/albums...0-8C63-26D90AE504C6-1305-0000016F07C21E9E.jpg
I want to refurbish it into a work axe, while preserving its mark and character. (I'm a fireman)
As you can see in the link, the toe of the bit has been filed down approx 1/2", relative to the heel (both lengths measured from the front of the eye). It's still got at least 1 1/2" of temper, so I can file it down to match no problem, which brings me to question 1: what is the proper geometry of the bit - can I trace a mark from another axe at work, simply laid back 1/2" to account for the missing material?
Question 2: where can I get the best quality haft? (Since my life, among others, will depend on it) Is there a vendor who will understand and take the time to pick out their best quality?
3: Once it's rehafted, should I take material from the pick/poll to balance the material removed from the bit? I would prefer a sharper pick anyhow.
4: Also, with respect to dating the axe, I was going to contact Larry MacPhail - he seems to be an authority on axe history, and is somewhat nearby. Any other resources?
Thanks for any information you can provide!
Andrew