Colt 1911 WWI Reissue and slide marring from ejected cases.

Rhinoman

Rhinoman

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Dec 13, 2011
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Hey everyone, I have a new Colt 1911 WWI Reissue and after my second trip to the range today I noticed the classic finish marring around the ejection port from spent brass flipping out and hitting the slide but these marks are not in the normal 2 o'clock position but rather in a straight back 12 o'clock position behind the ejection port. I've never seen this before and was just wondering if anyone has seen the marks in this position before.

It's a beautiful pistol that I plan on shooting for the rest of my life and the marks don't bother me but they just seem to be in a weird place.

Any thoughts are appreciated. :)

The pistol in question.

DSCN1841.jpg
 
I had a 1911 that had some metal removed, straight back from the ejection port to keep from denting the lip of the cases as they were ejected. So I'd guess that it is common for the cases to hit there on ejection.
 
Thanks for the info! I've seen plenty of marks on slides from ejected brass just never in this spot. Also, the first trip to the range showed no marking after 100 rounds and I was shooting the same ammo (American Eagle 230 grain) yesterday. I supposed the ejection pattern changes as things start to break in just a bit. :)
 
I love it when 1911's look used.

I didn't used to, though. Like many, I've cried tears of pain and anguish when my 1911's have been scratched, bled on, sweated on...and marks were left.

As an evil plastic pistol owner, I've found the solution (carry your GLOCK instead), but I can't resist using my 1911's...and because I like carrying/shooting them, they inevitably get "character marks".

Its just part of the game...just learn to live with it!

Nice looking pistol...BTW.
 
^^^I hear you.

There was a time in my life when the marks would have bothered me but no longer. I like seeing objects that carry the wear marks that are the result of being used for their intended purpose.

My main concern with these ejection marks was that they're in a location I haven't seen before and I don't know if it's an indication that I could have reliability problems with the extractor based on the location of the marks.

There's also no reason to live with the marks if the extractor should be set up differently to eliminate them.

I'm good either way, it's going to see holster time and LOTS of rounds. :)
 
I've never seen marks as you described but you could throw an Ed Brown extractor in there to see if there is a difference.

Do you plan on keeping the 1911 stock?

If not, you're right to say there is no reason to deal with it when you don't have to.

The EB or a Wilson Combat aftermarket extractor would be the first thing I'd switch out.
 
It's hard to say without pictures but the WWI replica does not have a lowered and flared ejection port. The lowered and flared ejection port has become pretty much standard so that may explain the difference between this and your other 1911s. The lowered and flared port makes it easier to eject live rounds and also beats your brass up less.
 
ElConquistador said:
It's hard to say without pictures but the WWI replica does not have a lowered and flared ejection port. The lowered and flared ejection port has become pretty much standard so that may explain the difference between this and your other 1911s. The lowered and flared port makes it easier to eject live rounds and also beats your brass up less.
Click to expand...

This pistol doesn't have a lowered or flared ejection port because it's a reissue of the original 1911. I'd still expect the marks on the slide to be around the 2 o'clock position on the slide (when viewed from behind) rather than straight back from the ejection port. I guess they're just flipping out, hitting a part of the slide and then being redirected straight back. Thing is, the brass isn't hitting me in the face. I'll have to pay more attention to my next trip to the range and see where the brass is actually going once it's ejected. :)
 
These pistols were designed to eject the spent cases up and back, sometimes the spent cases will hit you in the forehead, this is normal for this pistol. The lowered and flared ejection ports were done so a modified ejector would throw the spent brass to your right side and it would not get caught on the slide on its way out. You can have the ejector adjusted to throw them more to your right, but I would not bother unless they are hitting you in the forehead.
 
pmcconnell said:
These pistols were designed to eject the spent cases up and back, sometimes the spent cases will hit you in the forehead, this is normal for this pistol. The lowered and flared ejection ports were done so a modified ejector would throw the spent brass to your right side and it would not get caught on the slide on its way out. You can have the ejector adjusted to throw them more to your right, but I would not bother unless they are hitting you in the forehead.
Click to expand...

Nothing in the forehead but I'll pay attention to their trajectory on my next outing. I guess that Browning didn't really get it perfect with his first pistol if the brass hits you in the forehead and the hammer bites the web of your hand! I do love the pistol though. :D
 
Changing the recoil spring may help, or the extractor may not be properly tuned. What loads are you shooting?
 
I've only shot American Eagle 230 grain rounds through the gun so far. It'll be the standard range round for me. :)
 
The standard 16 pound recoil spring should be fine.

The extractor is probably the culprit.

You want the extractor to release the round sooner. A properly tuned extractor will be rounded on the bottom of the hook (make sure the bottom of the locator pad on the extractor has a bevel).

My advice would be to find a competent 1911 smith and have him check it out. If he doesn't know what to do (as described above), find one that does.

1911's can be slightly finicky, but reliable as a rock when properly set up.
 
I think that I'll look around for a gunsmith in the area that has a great reputation and have them look a the extractor. I'd definitely prefer no the have the cases hitting the slide if I can avoid it and at the same time I'd like for any changes to the extractor to leave the pistol extremely reliable. I don't plan on any other mods to the pistol.

Thanks so much for sharing your thoughts and your suggestions. :)
 
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