Comfortable spines

4

40oz

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Aug 12, 2015
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I have a nice New Holland Colonial promotional barlow, probably 1990's production. Carbon steel blades with original finish, solid bolster, very nice example of the type. The only problem is the blade spines are sharp. Controlled cuts tear up my thumb. I don't want to tear up the knife so I'm asking for advice. My first thought is to simply sand the edges but it's kind of a hard steel. My file just skates off the edge when handheld - reluctant to put the blade in a vice without input from folks who've ground a spine for comfort themselves.

I don't want to hack the knife up, just want a slightly more comfortable spine for using. I can't wait for several years of banging around in a pocket to do the job for me but I don't want it to be obnoxiously modded every time I look at the knife. If a rough stone will knock it down with some time put into the effort I'm OK doing that, but I'd like to hear from those who've done something similar before breaking out the 60 grit or putting an hour into scarring my knife for life :)

I suppose I'm mostly asking if grinding/sanding a 45* bevel will be enough to make it comfortable, and/or if i could take off less metal and still have a comfortable knife to use.

Thanks in advance :)
 
1. I like a somewhat sharp spine since I can use it as a scraper/deburr tool.

but...

Use a stone. I wouldn't even use a rough stone. Use a fine one. Push the stone down the spine like you are using a file to deburr. Make a pass at 22 degrees, then one at 45 degrees, then one at 67 degrees (roughly:)). You know, kind of roll the burr off and semi-radius it.

You probably will need to take less than you think off, a micro radius.
 
All you probably need is to "break" the edge and the procedure mentioned by davek14 will get you there. I just rounded (fully) my first spine on a small bird & trout knife and I'll say that it was an "experience" and let it go at that......
 
I'm with Dave on the spine, though more with a fixed-blade than a folder. On a folder, if I find the corners of the spine a little too sharp, a few passes with a Sharpmaker rod makes them more pocket-friendly :thumbup:
 
davek14 said:
You probably will need to take less than you think off, a micro radius.
Click to expand...

Absolutely right. You may be surprised how small a difference in sharpness your fingertips can detect. Think of it like blunting a blade to re-set the edge; it doesn't take much.
 
If you don't have a stone you could just roll a strip of sandpaper around a piece of wood and go to town.
Just break the sharp corners, don't remove too much and stay away from rolling the backsquare area or you will see the gap with the spring in the opened position
 
I've done this on a handful of my knives. Focusing on the corner of the tang, right where it protrudes above the handle when closed. I use a medium diamond stone, fine ceramic rod, then green polishing compound to finish.

So much better in the hand, and better in the pocket.
 
Occasionally I use a No. 1 Swiss file to break the edges. A light touch is all that's needed.
 
You could get a knife maker to put a " slack belt" finish on the spine. It comes out with a nice gentle radius. All the spines on my semi custom knives have that now,it's the only way to go.
 
VCM3 said:
You could get a knife maker to put a " slack belt" finish on the spine. It comes out with a nice gentle radius. All the spines on my semi custom knives have that now,it's the only way to go.
Click to expand...

Most custom makers have come around concerning hot edges, my Ericksons have nice crisp angles without being uncomfortable.
 
400 grit wet/dry on a quarter inch dowel works great, and doesn't take much. Go slow and check often.
 
Bigfattyt said:
I've done this on a handful of my knives. Focusing on the corner of the tang, right where it protrudes above the handle when closed. I use a medium diamond stone, fine ceramic rod, then green polishing compound to finish.

So much better in the hand, and better in the pocket.
Click to expand...

This seems to be the area I find uncomrtable, but it's in the closed position so during use its not an issue. But often that corner of the blade and has a wicked edge on it. I've nicked myself before digging it out of my pocket and hitting that sharp angle. I'll sometimes just use a stone to barely, very slightly, take the edge off. Very tiny. But it helps. I too am leery about screwing up my knife. If it's a custom, I try to remember to ask the maker about it, but usually forget.
 
Joe58 said:
This seems to be the area I find uncomrtable, but it's in the closed position so during use its not an issue. But often that corner of the blade and has a wicked edge on it. I've nicked myself before digging it out of my pocket and hitting that sharp angle. I'll sometimes just use a stone to barely, very slightly, take the edge off. Very tiny. But it helps. I too am leery about screwing up my knife. If it's a custom, I try to remember to ask the maker about it, but usually forget.
Click to expand...

I have not done it to my only custom slip joint. The fit is so perfect, and gap free, I could not bear to. The tangs are crisply edged. Perfectly flat, and doing this job my self, or having the maker do it would ever so slithtly alter that perfect visual perfection of the tang/back spring seamless appearance!
I usually find more need to do this on two bladed slip joints. Though many of my single blades have had the same treatment.
 
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