Commander Problems

Joined
Jul 2, 2000
Messages
2,357
I just recieved a silver CN coated commander. The knife is great, except the blade doesn't sit center in the liner when closed. If I tighten the pivot screw, the blade moves closer to the liner and rubs. If I loosen the screw the blade moves center, but is rubbing on deployment. This also effects lockup. Any suggestions. I would hate to have to send it back. I waited so long for it when I bought it.
 
I think sending it back may be your only solution to this one.

Before you do though, speak to Emerson Customer Services. I haven't dealt with them myself, but I have only heard good things about them. See what they say first, then take it from there.
 
I just received a CN Commander myself that appears to rub a bit during opening. I don't see it happening, but I hear something and the opening is not as smooth as it probably should be. Does anyone else know anything about this problem?
 
USAFSP,

Can you tell by looking if your knife has a washer on both sides of the blade? I am sure it must or it's function would be impaired beyond what you describe. If all attempts to correct the problem have been unsuccessful, please send the knife back so that we can make it right for you. We will turn the knife around as fast as possible.

Knave,

Your problem is not too unusual. The rubbing
you describe is indicative of a loose pivot. A bit of adjustment should remedy the problem. I have found, on my Commanders, the adjustment to be pairly precise. I used a bit of removable Loctite to keep the knife dialed in just where I want it.

This is the drawback to an adjustable pivot like the ones we use. We are in ongoing disscussion about using Loctite during assembly. The hesitation is that this will make the knife a bit less user servicable.

You guys be sure to let me know if I can be of assistence to you in resolving your problems.

Take care,
Derek

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Emersonknives.com

The #1 Hard Use Knives In The World
 
What I did to address this problem with mine was to disassemble the knife and then adjust the load pressure of the 'upper' bearing detent on the blade.

After having doing this, I applied a small amount of Loctite to the pivot screw after dialing in what I felt to be a good amount of smoothness versus lateral 'solidity' with the blade opened.

Hope this helps...
 
Thanks, Derek. I'll give that a try. It's a beautiful knife, BTW.
smile.gif
 
Derek,

I see no reason for you to use Loctite in the manufacturing of these great knives, as it would take away or ability to set the tension as we like it. How about just including the process for resolving these easier problems in the instructions and, there, recommend using Loctite (BLUE STUFF ONLY!) to fix the pin screw?

Or not...

-Scott
 
I too have experienced a problem with the Commander. Last night while I was practicing the wave draw the liner engaged completely across the contact point on the butt of the blade and lodged itself between the blade and the opposite liner. I had to partially disassemble the knife in order to free the locking liner. It happened again and by the time I had reassembled the knife the little screws were toast. They were practically spot welded in place which I guess is a good thing. Anyway, This would have been a real drag if I had been out in the field.
BTW I think Marine Tuff-Cloth is not reacting with the CN finish in a good way. There seems to be discoloration occuring.

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Usual Suspect
http://www.freeyellow.com/members8/arkhamdrifter/index.html
 
arkhamdrifter,


If I may ask a question, how is the tension in the pivot pin? It has been my experience that an even slightly loose pin is the real cause of liner locks to prematurely wear. Now, I may be all wet on this, and someone with more knowledge can set me straight. But here's why I believe that.

If you loosen the pin so there is blade play, hold the blade to one side, let the liner lock engage and see how far the lock travels across the tang stop. Do the same thing except put pressure on the blade in the other direction. When I do this the difference in liner lock travel (between both tests) is from one edge of the tang stop to the other.

So anymore, I adjust the tension by holding the liner lock out of the way, and with the blade in the fully open position, wiggle it from side to side. I try to find the point where there is the least possible amount of tension to give ZERO wiggle.

With the tension set this way, the blade is much less inclined to "bend" with respect to the liners. And, it's still loose enough so the blade can "fly" open with a simple flick. Remember, that when you open the knive with the thumb stud, your thumb puts a load the blade perpendicular to the pin axis. So with no play, the lock should move to the exact same spot on every engagement.

This are my thoughts on the matter. If I'm wrong, someone please correct me. Hope it helps.

Terry
 
Weird! When I got my CQC-7, it had the same problem. It came dangerously close to the liner and almost scraped it. Fortunately for me, it never did that. There was never any blade play and so the knife never was pushed into the liner using thumb pressure during opening. I sold that one to a friend who needed a knife to pop car tires or something, but will probably get another one later.

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Chang and the Rebels of the East!
Southern Taiwan Will Rise Again!
cst.jpg
 
TerryR,
You may very well be right. The pivet screw loosens very easily on this Commander and my CQC-7. Strangely though the CQC-7 does not have this problem. Anyway, I have found that if I safely secure the knife so that it does not slip I can physically push the locking bar back again without having to field strip the bugger. Probably not good though huh? LOL!

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Usual Suspect
http://www.freeyellow.com/members8/arkhamdrifter/index.html
 
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